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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there,

I apologize if this is not the correct place to start that discussion.

I have now put back the clutch plates and the lock nut on my ‘85 CB450SC. How tight should the 4 springs be?

Also how do you adjust the clutch?

many thanks
Ed
 

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Moved to SOHC 400/450 section.

What you're referring to is the 4 bolts holding the clutch springs, and they tighten into and against a post that is threaded, so you can't tighten them any tighter once the bolt is tight. Be cautious with these - they are 6mm bolts (smaller than 1/4") and can break off if you get too heavy-handed with them, but the springs are automatically tensioned as they should be when the bolts are tight. Also, tighten them progressively in a criss-cross method to keep the plate with the throwout bearing from binding or cracking as you do.

I'm not as familiar with the adjustment procedure on the SOHC 400 series so I'll let someone else explain the proper method.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you ancientdad!
I don’t have a torque wrench so my top engine may be completely screwed anyway 🥴
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
After reading the conversation about torque wrenches I really want one!!
Probably would help with the rebuild too 😁
 

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A torque wrench is an absolute requirement unless like Tom, myself and several others you have a fairly well educated wrist and arm. That education comes after years/decades of wrenching daily.
 

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After reading the conversation about torque wrenches I really want one!!
Probably would help with the rebuild too 😁
DUH... :p if I were you, I'd buy that torque wrench, loosen the bolts/nuts on the top end and re-torque them properly. Can't rebuild an engine without one
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi me again... i have been going crazy about the clutch spring plate bolts thingy. I was under the impression that the plate was not going almost all the way inside the centre clutch but it seems like it.

My stupid question of the day is... rolling drums... How deep does it go?
I put the cover back on with the nub in the groove on the cover and played a little with the articulated arm at the top (where cable attaches) but it feels not quite right.

any thoughts?!

EFDB31AC-4910-4490-A686-27C425CB3E51.jpeg
 

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Are the 4 clutch spring bolts tight? Torqued properly? If so, it is where it is supposed to be. These things are pieces of mechanical equipment, not witchcraft or magic... :) they go together one way, the proper way. If you're in doubt, take the clutch spring bolts back out again, remove the springs from the posts and reassemble it (finger tight) without the springs so you can see how far it's supposed to go in
 

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That bearing plate bottoms against the 4 posts, the 6mm bolts go tight to 6-9 ft/lbs torque.
When you put the cover on rotate the clutch lever back to the @9 o'clock position. Those bolts also go to 6-9 ft/lbs.
Here's a basic bolt torque chart to work with
306741
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
That bearing plate bottoms against the 4 posts, the 6mm bolts go tight to 6-9 ft/lbs torque.
When you put the cover on rotate the clutch lever back to the @9 o'clock position. Those bolts also go to 6-9 ft/lbs.
Here's a basic bolt torque chart to work with
View attachment 306741
what does the rotating at 9 o’clock do?
Maybe thats why I have so much slack?! Oh Crap 🤭
 

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Rotation gets the plunger all the way into the cover and positions the shaft so the return spring is engaged.
 

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That's good. Now the cable adjustment. First turn the cable adjuster at the bars all the way in, now adjust the cable until the slack is barely removed, the cable end bracket on the lever should be loose, not tight. You can adjust the feel of the clutch now with the bar adjuster.
 
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