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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have encountered a very strange problem. I took off my left crankcase the other day to put a new gasket on and when I assembled everything, the clutch was floppy and had no engagement. I took everything apart again and realized that clutch push rod was in all the way. I think I had taken the clutch rod out all the way and inserted it back in prior to reassembly. I am at a loss on what happened. It was working perfectly before I had disassembled it. Also, for future reference, do I need to take the left crankcase off to work on the clutch rod? I noticed there is a port that I can access this on the rear crankcase cover. I tried to unscrew the cover at this port but it is pretty stuck.

Also, when I change gaskets, do I need to use gasket sealer on the new gasket? Or do I just screw it on tight.

Thanks a million.

Ken
 

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Chances are you dropped the ball bearing from the worm gear (the mechanism inside the left cover that touches to pushrod).

Dont really understand what you mean by the clutch pushrod inspection port, I suggest you post a photo before you screw anything up.

Just a little oil to hold the gasket in place is fine, so long as you torque the screws down evenly.

You should also edit your profile so we know what model Honda you are working on, and your location so that your online neighbours can sort you with parts and such.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I thought about the bearing first. It's definitely in the worm gear hole. I've attached a copy of the slot inspection port.

The weird thing is, when I have the cover off, I can bottom out the push rod. I'm trying to troubleshoot and replicate what normally happens. As the worm gear spins, the gear moves towards the right case. This in turn pushes the clutch push rod towards the right crankcase. I tried to manually push the clutch push rod but it appears to be bottomed out. Shouldn't I feel some resistance and be able to push it toward the right crankcase?
 

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kennethshaw said:
I tried to manually push the clutch push rod but it appears to be bottomed out. Shouldn't I feel some resistance and be able to push it toward the right crankcase?
Not by hand - the clutch springs are way too stiff to allow a normal human to push in the clutch push rod, that's why there''s a mechanism.

The arrow in the photo is not an inspection port, it's the actual adjuster that you turn (big screwdriver in the big slot) to adjust the clutch.
Loosen the little lock bolt by the arrow in your photo.
Pull in the clutch lever on the handlebar - you should see the big slot in the adjuster move.
Hold in the clutch lever gently, turn the slot in the adjuster in the other direction.
You'll feel the clutch lever start pulling "out" - turn till the lever is where you like the clutch to start disengaging, lock the bolt down, Bob's Yer Uncle......

This assumes that neither the cable adjuster at the engine nor the one on the handlebar is at an extreme....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interesting mechanism.

So I'll double check the push rod assembly tonight. Is there a chance that the clutch plates are stuck? How far should the push rod stick out from the engine? I can measure that and post too.

As for the worm gear, should it be threaded in all the way to the crankcase cover?
 

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kennethshaw said:
Is there a chance that the clutch plates are stuck? How far should the push rod stick out from the engine? I can measure that and post too.

As for the worm gear, should it be threaded in all the way to the crankcase cover?

Is there a chance that the clutch plates are stuck?
It is possible the clutch plates are stuck.

How far should the push rod stick out from the engine?
Far enough to engage the ball bearing in the adjuster (not trying to be glib..).
There's a "cupped" end and a rounded end to the push rod - be sure the cupped end is at the ball bearing end.

As for the worm gear, should it be threaded in all the way to the crankcase cover?
The slotted face of the adjuster should be flush with the cover. The "worm" part should be rotated till it's fully "compressed" (not extended). At this point, the adjuster arm should be more or less horizontal. If not, twist the entire adjuster housing until it is more or less horizontal.
Screw the whole cover back on - it should not compress the push rod much, if at all.
Then attempt the adjustment as described above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks. I'll check all your suggestions. How would I know if the clutch plates are stuck?
 

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The kickstarter will kick straight threw with no resistance. its probably out of adjustment as stated above, or the ball bearing came out of the wormgear.
 

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Ken, 99% sure I have the answer....Phone 540-427-4256...Steve
 
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