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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sigh...my clutch replacement was going so well....story below:

Since way back, my clutch has been slipping quite a bit. I decided that this weekend, I would go ahead and replace it. Luckily I had a new set of clutch friction plates and springs. I popped the cover off, and started replacing everything.



Springs had some "red" on them, what could this be?



Clutch outer has some scratches on it....hmmm....



Anyway, I replaced the plates, popped the springs back on and started to tighten everything. I think this might be a homer award candidate.

I looked for a torque spec for the springs and found something that stated what the spring tension should be without reading it fully. It had a range of like 48-51 lbs. So the idiot that I am I took my torque wench, set it to 50 ft-lbs :roll: and criss cross tightened the bolts. Then I hear SNAP!



The clutch inner has partly snapped off! I freak out and quickly undo everything. I then rush inside to look at the manual, and I can't find the torque spec for these guys anywhere! Is there something I am overlooking and am I as dumb as soup?
 

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bummer dude, 9-11 ft lbs is proper for a 6mm fastener (at least for Honda marine engines)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah thats what happens when you don't double check stuff....I confirmed the value with someone on another forum, 8-10 ft-lbs

btw, I am on my way to the parents' place to dig into my parts bike for a new clutch inner, so I am not TOO screwed.
 

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If all else fails, I have a complete clutch just sitting around looking for a home.

It's for a 350 but I think it will work.
 

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If nothing else Kruk, I've got a CJ360 engine out in the scrapyard that I can pull the clutch basket for ya. If it's the same part, and if I can get past the hornets. I'm not sure if it's the same part though??

If your other parts engine ends up having a damaged clutch basket then let me know..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Good news all,
The parts bike clutch inner was perfect and I re-assembled the clutch and bolted everything on. I made the clutch springs slightly tight. By the time I got it all buttoned up and cleaned, it was 11:45 pm. I don't want the neighbors to hate us even more so I will delay my test ride till tomorrow.
 

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wow, this is a new one on me! never heard of anyone breaking a lug before... i bet you were freeked out man! sounds like you're on the way to successful fix.

i'll add that the red paint on the springs tells you the "rating" of the spring. rating is spring "springingness" depending on application. I've seen red, white, yellow, and blue on springs that are rated for street, race, "light-action", etc... i'm not sure what the color rating is for Honda (yamaha changes colors per model so i always need to check the manual) but do know it's important that the color is consistant in the basket! you would not want different rated springs in your basket... chilling thought there
danWI
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I don't want to speak too soon, but I took the bike for a quick 2 mile testride this morning and it felt GREAT. The bike stopping jerking when I would disengage the clutch. I was baby-ing the clutch, so next weekend I will probably ride the snot out of it around town to give it a true test of actual riding conditions :D
 

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Look at my build thread. I did EXACTLY the same thing. $50 mistake for me. NOS from the dealer. I feel MUCH better now, thank you. I am not alone. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
360fan said:
Look at my build thread. I did EXACTLY the same thing. $50 mistake for me. NOS from the dealer. I feel MUCH better now, thank you. I am not alone. :lol:
:lol: Thanks, I feel better too!
 

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Tough break....pun intended...!!!
This falls under the catagory of "Measure twice....cut once.."
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Since my roommate's torque wrench was found to only work for torque values greater than 15 ft-lbs or so, I think that this week/weekend I will pop off the cover and try torquing the bolts properly. I found this online at Sears and I can pick this up on my lunch break. It sound like exactly what I am looking for. What do you think?
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... ord=torque
 

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We have all stripped threads and broken things. I am glad you had the parts to get back on the road.
don
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Yeah I wouldn't either. :lol: I will look into an in-lbf craftsman torque wrench instead of the one in the link I posted. I think I would get better sensitivity that way.
BTW this brings me to another question:
When draining my oil for this readjustment (AGAIN!!! :evil: ) can I re-use the slightly used stuff? I mean I rode the bike for only 2-5 miles with the new clutch + oil, so I don't think it would be too bad. I will drain the oil into a new container to eliminate contaminants or particulates.
 

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The oil - I'd use it..

Sears had a special a couple weeks ago on a set of two torque wrenches I believe.. Pretty killer deal from what I remember.


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Pickings were slim at the Sears in the Loop in Chicago, but I settled on the Craftsman Microtork® Torque Wrench, 25-250 in. lbs., 3/8 in. Drive
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00944593000P

Bird76Mojo said:
Sears had a special a couple weeks ago on a set of two torque wrenches I believe.. Pretty killer deal from what I remember.
GB I did see the remnants of the sale...an empty tool "rack" behind the glass :lol:

Hopefully I will find some time to retorque those springs soon. I might get a head start and at least remove the kickstart, footpeg and right side exhaust tonight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well that job didn't take too long! With the in-lbf wrench, I torqued the springs and buttoned my baby back up. I took a 1st gear spin through the alley and all seems well!
 

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Don't feel bad, I've heard of MMI graduates using air impacts on them and breaking them clean off. Simple rule of thumb if you don't have the spec or a common chart is just think about what you are tighteneing. 6mm bolt into aluminum will be light, even THICK aluminum. I worked for my dad for a few years on british cars, the amount of drain plug threads I had to repair on Jaguar sumps after jiify lube typ oil chages was astronomical! 1 1/4" head steel bolt seems to make people think you need a 3' long bar to tighten it, it only had 6 coarse threads going into aluminum.Moving on, I always like to use a small dab of non permanent (Loctite Blue 242) locking agent on parts like that, just in case. Those inner hubs are about $10 all day long on ebay anyway, the hardest part is just getting the circlip off. Congrats on tackling the job yourself though!
 
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