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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The bike ran fine, better than ever, I was just fine tuning and was told clutch lever shouldn't be
90 degrees off motor should be about 120 or so back from front, so i changed it as described in manual. See attached image. The bike was in neutral when I changed the lever, spring and push rod...
Now I only have
3rd and 4th gear if lucky, no neutral and no 1st and 2nd. Shifting is hard and only from 3rd to 4th.
I adjusted clutch cable but no way works....
Any help greatly appreciated. Screenshot_20190510-173637.jpg Screenshot_20190510-173637.jpg Screenshot_20190510-174446.jpg
 

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Changing the clutch lifter parts, in the outer cover, has nothing to do with the shift mechanism. You have another problem, take the cover back off and look behind the clutch assembly to see if everything is in the right order.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Changing the clutch lifter parts, in the outer cover, has nothing to do with the shift mechanism. You have another problem, take the cover back off and look behind the clutch assembly to see if everything is in the right order.
Everything was fine till I changed it out, the lever... this is what puzzles me.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Such as shifting linkage thrust washer.... ? Not sure what to look for. I did lay the bike on its side to replace lever.
 

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Reset the lever back to the original position. When everything is new and correct the case lever will be at the 10:30 to 11 o'clock position. As the clutch frictions wear the lever will approach the 12 o'clock position.
12 o'clock is in relation to the case/cover mating surface which would be 3 and 9 o'clock
 

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I just installed new EBC clutch plates and noticed that the clutch lever at the engine cover is at around 12 o'clock. It was at around 11 with the old clutch.
Now I can't tighten the clutch cable much more which I don't like for the future.

The EBC plates are either thinner or maybe I dropped that little rod clutch lifter inside the cover?
My clutch works now but I wonder if the clutch even works without the little rod. I guess not so it's where it should be?


https://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/rodclutch-lifter_big22847413000-01_a045.jpg
 

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The new clutch plate stack is actually thicker, as it wears the position of the lever will move back towards the left(11 o'clock) position.
 

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The rod is definitely important, I'm pretty sure it goes into the little bearing in the clutch and presses against the cover somewhere. I have to redo my balancer adjustment so might have a picture later today.
 

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The new clutch plate stack is actually thicker, as it wears the position of the lever will move back towards the left(11 o'clock) position.
Ohh, thank you. Then I was thinking in the opposit way.


The rod is definitely important, I'm pretty sure it goes into the little bearing in the clutch and presses against the cover somewhere. I have to redo my balancer adjustment so might have a picture later today.
I understand it's important. The thing is that I'm exhausted today and don't have energy to open up the cover again and check for that rod. Yes it goes deep all the way into the case that's why I think the clutch wouldn't work without it. Now when it's clear I was getting everything the wrong way I'm no longer worried it's not in it's place.
 

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It doesn't actually seem like it would work without it, there would be nothing pushing the clutch basket. See pic below, it actually goes in the clutch cover and presses against the bearing in the clutch basket when you pull the lever. I'm sure it's in place.
IMG_0741.JPG
 

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The issue with the clutch adjustment running out of space isn't necessarily the clutch. I've come across many cables that are too long. The cable housing/adjuster are fine, it's in the cable length. The cables from Tucker-Rocky and Parts-n-More seem to be correct. Other option is to cut the case end ferrule off and replace it thereby shortening the actual cable. Venhill is one of the sources for cable ferrules.
 
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