Honda Twins banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

A problem has developed suddenly with my 1975 360T. When I first start the bike and I shift into first the bike lurches and stalls as if I had not pulled the clutch lever. I restart the bike and try again. Shift into first and there is a little resistance but the bike stays running. I go back to neutral and from then on can switch from neutral to first and back very smoothly.

Also after the first start with the lurch and stall if I restart and ride the clutch works and shifts fine.

I adjusted the clutch according to the Clymer manual. That did not help. This bike supposedly has a new clutch and it worked fine for the first 2 month that I have had it.

Looking forward to any thoughts or input. Does letting the bike warm up have anything to do with this?

Thanks in advance.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,550 Posts
Letting a 360 run a good couple of minutes does hurt them in the long run either way, that makes sure there is plenty of oil up top to keep the camshaft happy. I leave mine parked on center stand and start it up and get it running until it stays running on its own then get all my safety gear on. By then its ready to go. Sounds almost like you have the clutch just a little loose though. There is a sticky here about how to correctly adjust the clutch if you haven't read it yet.

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html

Personally I have never read the Clymer for these but they are somewhat known to be somewhat off on their information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is getting frustrating.

I was following the above sticky written by 66Sprint to the letter. I got up to the part about replacing the cover and adjusting the slotted screw and setting the lock nut as described.

The next step is to pull the clutch lever to the hand grip. When I did that there was a pop noise from under the cover and the clutch lever went slack. At this point I could not move the slotted screw.

I decided to remove the cover and as I was loosening the cover screws there was that pop again and once again I had resistance on the clutch lever and the slotted screw was adjustable.

I tightened up the cover screws, adjusted the slotted screw, pulled the clutch lever and the same pop happened and I am back to where I started.

I am open to any suggestions or insight to what might be happening
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,550 Posts
The pop is the actuator going over center and popping into the next set of ramps. This will happen if you have the cable too tight OR you are using a new cable that is slightly too short. This is a known issue with some of the aftermarket cables, especially from Motion Pro.

The trick is to take the cover off and screw ALL the cable adjustment back into the cover AND the handle and then verify the arm location. The arm on the actuator should point downwards at least between 7 and 8 o'clock or lower and the spring should be somewhat loose. If it is ANY higher than that you will get the pop because you will pull it into the next set of ramps before it can do any good with the clutch. IF you have a new cable and it is too short you can take the lock ring off the handle adjustment and screw the adjuster clear into the handle and just do all the adjustment from the cover.

When doing the handle adjustment you should feel the clutch start to be disengaged in about the first 1/2" inch of the the end of the handle moving, some like it a little more some a little less. It should be fully disengaged at about an inch from the actual grip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can you tell me where the slotted screw should be adjusted to during this fix?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Letting a 360 run a good couple of minutes does hurt them in the long run either way, that makes sure there is plenty of oil up top to keep the camshaft happy. I leave mine parked on center stand and start it up and get it running until it stays running on its own then get all my safety gear on. By then its ready to go. Sounds almost like you have the clutch just a little loose though. There is a sticky here about how to correctly adjust the clutch if you haven't read it yet.

https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/48-engine-discussion/8701-350-360-clutch-adjustment-procedure.html

Personally I have never read the Clymer for these but they are somewhat known to be somewhat off on their information.
I recently bought a 74 CB360. One of the most important items in the whole owners manual says to let it warm up before riding. That is something I always adhere to. Sometimes I will get on it after idleing it a few minutes and take it around the barnyard a few times to get it hot before going out on the road and opening it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
51 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have gotten this problem corrected. Finally have the clutch dialed in. No longer stalls when shifted into first.

I believe the problem may have been that the lock nut on the slotted screw got loose. I did not think much of it at the time.

Anyway my unrestored CB360T is back on the road. Thanks to all who helped. What a great forum.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top