[longdistancerider]

If you're reading this then you've discovered what the rest of us know. Nobody makes one, so you have 2 choices for removing and reinstalling the clutch hub nut. 1) use a punch to drive it off and on or 2) make a socket.
Using a punch to take it off is ok but putting it on tight enough is improbable. Under the nut there is a concave washer [attachment=7:1fyhrcym]201_4458.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym]that functions as a lock washer, marked on one side as "outside", that's directional. [attachment=6:1fyhrcym]201_4457.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym]
Stuff needed:
15/16" 12 point socket
Dremel tool/motor
Dremel cutoff blade(Dremel Part #EZ406) and grinding drum
10" mill file
the bloody nut
Note: you'll want to file off any distortions on the nut from using the punch before trying to fit the nut to the socket
[attachment=2:1fyhrcym]201_4455.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym]
Starting with the socket[attachment=5:1fyhrcym]201_4441.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym] Wrap it in tape to make cut marks on[attachment=4:1fyhrcym]201_4445.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym] The tabs line up with 4 of the 12 inner points and you'll be cutting out 8 of those or 2 between each tab. The depth of the tabs is 7mm and the width is 5mm. [attachment=3:1fyhrcym]201_4449.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym]Using the Dremel tool and cutoff blade cut down to make the tabs, then across between the tabs. Depending on the size of the cutoff wheel you may not be able to cut that out completely without cutting into the tabs which you don't want to do since they'll be weak. Cut as much as you can and break the section out. Now that the larger section is out grind the inner section of the socket tabs for clearance on the nut[attachment=1:1fyhrcym]201_4450.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym] Now with the mill file narrow the tabs to get them all to fit the nut and so the nut drops into the socket[attachment=0:1fyhrcym]201_4453.JPG[/attachment:1fyhrcym] Now remove the tape and you're done
This took less than an hour to make and now I know I'll have the nut tight and right.

Or you can buy one here for $41.66 instead of a $5 socket and some time spent http://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/ho ... 20203.html

 

[xHoladay40x]

Love it wish I knew about this a whyle ago when I did my clutch

 

[XTOP20A]

back in my days actually WORKING :lol:
we used to make this type of socket,with welding only
longdistacerider's method is great but this method works nicely also and is pretty quik and easy if you have a welder
an old socket about the same diameter as the bottom of the grooves
4 pieces of square keystock that fit the nut-notches(fit needs not be perfect) layed alongside the socket and welded
you can actually use a hose clamp on all at once with the nut as the spacer so as to radially position them evenly then carefully tack'n weld
dont chince on the keystock run it full length of the socket

 

[toehead]

Great how to!


Another thing you can do:

I took a slightly smaller socket, and welded square stock onto the outside to mate with grooves.

 

[XTOP20A]

Great how to!


Another thing you can do:

I took a slightly smaller socket, and welded square stock onto the outside to mate with grooves.

:lol: one sentence,BRILLIANT :lol:

 

[tobot]

After I phoned Honda today to see how much the tool cost and then almost fainting, I decided I was going to ask on the HondaTwins forum a good idea to fashion one. Then I saw this post front and centre. Thank you very much!

 

[longdistancerider]

Now you know why I did it myself and posted the how to :lol:

 

[HerrDeacon]

Nice post Jim, going to put a socket on the list of things to pick-up next time I'm out. Thanks.

 

[metu71]

This probably is an overkill and would not be needed... I made this very same tool for my cb750f from correct size power socket used with compressed air tools. The socket had thicker wall, so the tab on finished socket is thicker and thus would be able to withstand more power.

 

[Mydlyfkryzis]

LDR methos is the cheapest. If you aren't handy, and aren't rich, you can but the Motion Pro version for $9 plus shipping. If you are ordering something else, and get the bill over $35, the shipping is free..\

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0015-Filter-Spanner/dp/B000WJBLDE

The item is Motion Pro 08-0015....You may find it at similar savings locally or another vender.

That is a 24mm ID, which my CB360 uses. Used with your 3/8 drive ratchet wrench and a short extension.
(24 mm = Approx 15/16)

...There is also this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0385-Counter-Balancer/dp/B000WJH386/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_y

Motion-Pro 08-0385

this is 20mm ID and listed for counter balancer removal.

Just some other sources for those not so handy, or don't

 

[longdistancerider]

Unfortunately both of those sockets are too small for the SOHC nut

 

[Mydlyfkryzis]

The upper one is 24mm. Same size as your 15/16 socket ID

What is too small??


Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk

 

[longdistancerider]

The cuts are 26mm IIRC, I'll find a nut and measure it again, been awhile since I did.

 

[longdistancerider]

Measured the nut, 26mm x 32mm.

 

[Mydlyfkryzis]

The ID of the MP socket is 24...OD is 30 mm

That tool is the same size as the Genuine Honda Tool I purchased tears ago....

You used a 15/16 socket. The ID of a 15/16 socket is 23.8 MM . The MP socket, like the genuine Honda tool (which I own) is 24 mm ID.

So the MP tool has a larger ID than your homemade socket by 0.2mm.

Your tool is good, I am not knocking it at all, I just wanted those who are not adept at making their own tools that there is an economical alternative to the Honda Tool...

I bought mine back in the early 70's to use with my CB350. CB360 has exact same filter nut, I am can't imagine they changed it for the later models.....They did away with the centrifugal filter a little later anyway.

I may be wrong, I have been in the past (Ask my wife ) but I am pretty sure the proper ID is 24mm for the oil filter cup and clutch basket.

I believe there is a similar 20mm nut on the counter balancer shaft, but I have never had or seen one, so I defer to those with experience.

Motion Pro has a double socket, 24mm on one side, 20 mm on the other, to cover all bases, but it is more like $30, not a bargain at all.

 

[longdistancerider]

:lol: I know where the confusion is coming from. I forgot to write that you need to use the Dremel to grind out the interior section of each tab so the point is removed.[attachment=0:38o09wwb]201_4450-001.JPG[/attachment:38o09wwb]

 

[Mydlyfkryzis]

For those reading this, I did a little more research (probably should of did this first ).

The 2 spanner sockets I listed are for the CB360/350 oil filter locknut. The CM400 clutch nut looks similar, hence my mistake. The CB360/350 uses a "16mm Nut, Lock" while the 400 uses a 20MM "Nut, Lock"....A little larger.

LDR is right, in that the spanner I listed is too small....

The confusion is also related to the fact that the spanner for the CB360 is 24mm ID, but for a 16MM Nut with a 24mm slot.

The CM400 has a 24mm lock nut that is a little larger in diameter.

So ignore my previous post unless you have the older centrifugal filter, in which case, the spanner works...

Hope that clears this up a little....

 

[mikecb400t]

all amazing ideas .. toehead what is a square stock? i was thinking of just using a 26mm sized or close to that size socket and cutting our my notches but i have a welder just don't know what a square stock is?

 

[mikecb400t]

Longdistancerider thank you i think ill use this idea and start grinding/ cutting away shortly

 

[mikecb400t]

I found a used starter clutch for $50 and a new one for $100 .. what do you guys think risk it or pay up and play it safe?