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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having trouble with my CL350 clutch dragging, it's enough to slow the engine down and make shifting difficult on the center stand. I popped the clutch several days ago with an improper adjustment, since then I have done the following: Cleaned and regreased the lifter assembly, rebuilt the clutch with new pads (it was needed anyway), and properly adjusted the lifter assembly. I followed Common-motor's video instructions on adjustment to the letter! I have not been able to remedy the dragging, which was not a noticeable issue before! I have double checked that I have the 5/16th bearing in the lifter as well. When I rebuilt the clutch, I watched the plates when the lever is pressed and they seem to separate okay. Do you guys have any advice? I was debating on using a larger bearing in the lifter or even small shaven piece of a bolt behind the original bearing. I'm just stumped on what to do!

Thanks y'all!


ps. I put the bike in 1st and engaged the rear brake and ran it for a minute or two with the new clutch pads and it didn't seem to help much. Do new pads need to be broken in?
 

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How long have you had the bike?
Are you sure it's the clutch and not something else?
I'm not quite clear what the issue is
 

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Sensei
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Did you use aftermarket clutch plates? They might be thicker than the originals. That would cause the clutch to not disengage. TOOLS
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
@66Sprint:
Yes, I meant that it is not releasing fully. When you say A and B plates are you referring to the friction plates and the metal plates between them? I simply reassembled the clutch the same as it was before I took it apart. I don't believe that they are warped because the clutch disengaged just fine when I first had it. It started having this issue after I did work on the bike and changed the oil, but i don't see how that could be causing the issue.(I also did a valve, ignition timing adjustment, brake rebuild, fork rebuild, and cleaned the oil filter.)

As for the link, I have followed those instructions literally to the letter! I even measured the bearing in my lifter arm to verify that it was the correct size...


@Tools1:
I don't believe they are thicker, I purchased them from common-motor. https://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb-clutch-rebuild

@Doode:
I have had the bike for a few months now but haven't ridden it much (Three long rides, two short). I am fairly certain it is the clutch, I don't see what else it could be. To clarify, the clutch is not fully disengaging. When I put the bike in gear, pull the clutch in and engage the rear brake it bogs the engine down. I release the clutch and it runs peachy again. It does not bog down a ton, but you can hear the difference night and day. This was not an issue when I bought the bike and rode it home. It doesn't even want to shift easily with the current issue, and it ran just fine when I rode it home that first day.
 

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Would grooves basket fingers or incorrect reassembly cause this issue?
Maybe you put something in backwards or out of order?
 

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@66Sprint:
Yes, I meant that it is not releasing fully. When you say A and B plates are you referring to the friction plates and the metal plates between them? NO... There are two different types of metal plates, One "A", and Seven "B" plates... I simply reassembled the clutch the same as it was before I took it apart. I don't believe that they are warped because the clutch disengaged just fine when I first had it. It started having this issue after I did work on the bike and changed the oil, What type of oil did you use... Modern oil with friction modifiers can cause slippage (Was that the reason you replaced the friction plates?) and the heat from slippage can burn and warp the steel plates..... but i don't see how that could be causing the issue.(I also did a valve, ignition timing adjustment, brake rebuild, fork rebuild, and cleaned the oil filter.)

As for the link, I have followed those instructions literally to the letter! I even measured the bearing in my lifter arm to verify that it was the correct size...


@Tools1:
I don't believe they are thicker, I purchased them from common-motor. https://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb-clutch-rebuild

@Doode:
I have had the bike for a few months now but haven't ridden it much (Three long rides, two short). I am fairly certain it is the clutch, I don't see what else it could be. To clarify, the clutch is not fully disengaging. When I put the bike in gear, pull the clutch in and engage the rear brake it bogs the engine down. The previous is correct for partial disengagement... I release the clutch and it runs peachy again. BUT, it should then stall completely when you release the clutch (lever)..... It does not bog down a ton, but you can hear the difference night and day. This was not an issue when I bought the bike and rode it home. It doesn't even want to shift easily with the current issue, and it ran just fine when I rode it home that first day.
See notes in Blue above.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@66sprint:
I've checked my pdf CB350 service manual, and I have the A and B plates in the correct order. B plate first, A plate ends up being last on the outside. I used about 1900ml Orielly 10w-40 high mileage oil with 100ml of a protective zinc/ZDDP oil additive. I replaced the clutch plates just to do it, they were 40ish years old, I figured it was a good idea. I don't think they are warped because the clutch worked perfectly when I first bought and rode the bike home. Lastly the engine doesn't want to stall when I release the lever, often it would keep on going, abet it stalling a couple times if the rpms dipped low enough...
 

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Sensei
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NO!...The A plate (of which only one is used) goes on the clutch center FIRST, so it is the inside/innermost plate...It is retained by the thin spring wire ring...
The outermost (just under the pressure plate) SHOULD be a friction disc (Of which, 8 are used), not a metal plate, (particularly not the A plate....)

ALSO, a phone call to O'Reilly's revealed that THAT particular oil DOES NOT meet the JASO-MA specs required......
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
@66Sprint:
I was mistaken on which plates were A and B. I will take my clutch apart and be sure that it is correct! Thanks for the info on the oil, I had no idea that would be an issue! Makes sense why this started happening after my oil change... I feel like a dingus now.

@Scrambler:
Thanks for the link, I'll make sure to pick up the right stuff next time I go into town!

One last question, do you guys think I need to clean off the friction pads with brake cleaner? Or just wipe them off?

Thank you all for the help! This forum has been amazing!
 

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Clutch basket has grooves in the leading edges. Remove the clutch plates and file off the ridges in the basket where the tabs of the clutch plates fit through the basket. (or replace the basket)

I will put money on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
I solved my issue! Yay! I changed the oil and cleaned my clutch stack double checking its proper install. Everything was peachy so I put the side cover back on and put in Honda GN4 oil. At first it didn't feel like anything was different but after the bike warmed up the clutch started acting normal! My bike shifts proper now as well. I think it was the cheap oil and additive I had in the case. Thank you all for the help and suggestions!

@ancientdad:

I'll get on it, thanks!

@infotron:

I looked at my basket and it wasn't warn enough to bother with filing down. Thanks for the idea though!
 
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