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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

So now that I finally have plates for my 76 cb500T I can actually test ride it legally (an important thing when you live in NYC). While stopped at red lights I noticed that at times my bike wanted to creep forward. As I understand it this is called drag yes? Anyway, I suppose the next order of business is taking apart the right crankcase and inspecting the pressure plates and springs with calipers. Clutch freeplay seems to be ok. Any suggestions/ ideas?
 

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The clutch cable could still need adjustment. You might take off the primary sprocket cover as well? The clutch actuator rod goes through the cases from the clutch side to the sprocket side. If that rod is deformed on the sprocket end it won't fully release the clutch. It would'nt hurt to have that cover off for inspection anyway. There's a little ball in there somewhere I think, DON'T LOSE IT. I don't remember all of this with the greatest clarity as it's been quite a while for me.

Others will chime in with added suggestions..

GB :mrgreen:
 

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The quickest test is to adjust the little adjuster at the clutch lever on the bar all the way so that there is the minimum amount of free play in the lever, or even NO free play (BUT ONLY FOR TEMPORARY TESTING). Then, go for a test ride and see if the problem still occurs.

By removing as much free play as you can, you're ensuring that when you pull in the clutch lever, you're getting the maximum 'disengagement' at the clutch. If the bike still wants to creep forward, you may have a deeper issue.

This isn't the be-all / end-all test or adjustment, but it IS a quick and dirty check.

Don't forget to put the adjuster back right if you took up ALL the free play, above.

Good luck, and report back!

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Taking out all the freeplay seems to have worked temporarily. I ordered a new clutch cable and I will take it from there. Thanks for the help guys I will keep yall posted.
 

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Here's my method for clutch adjustment-

To adjust, screw the adjuster on the handlebar IN all the way.
Then loosen the bolt on the sprocket cover.
Pull in the clutch lever all the way and hold it there loosely.
With a big-blade screwdriver, rotate the slotted adjuster on the sprocket cover clockwise - you'll feel it pull the clutch lever out.
Leave a little bit of slack in the lever , then tighten bolt down.
End of clutch adjustment. Now small adjustments can be made at the handlebar.
 

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tbpmusic said:
Here's my method for clutch adjustment-

To adjust, screw the adjuster on the handlebar IN all the way.
Then loosen the bolt on the sprocket cover.
Pull in the clutch lever all the way and hold it there loosely.
With a big-blade screwdriver, rotate the slotted adjuster on the sprocket cover clockwise - you'll feel it pull the clutch lever out.
Leave a little bit of slack in the lever , then tighten bolt down.
End of clutch adjustment. Now small adjustments can be made at the handlebar.
...and don't forget to make sure the cable adjustment at the sprocket cover is not at one extreme or the other. I like to use the sprocket cover adjustment, initially, in lieu of the clutch lever adjustment. Like Bill, I then make minor adjustments at the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks I'll get right on it!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
could you define extreme in regards to clutch adjustment at the sprocket cover?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
so if I have to adjust it past this horizontal position to take out the drag...? what does that tell me?
 

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It might indicate that you installed the adjuster itself "incorrectly".
We like to have the "arm" of the adjuster (that the cable tip hooks into) approximatey horizontal when installed. If not, it may extend out so far when you pull in the lever that the chain will actually contact it and start grinding it away - that part is very hard to find now, really don't want to mess it up.
Make sure that the rotating coarsely threaded adjuster part is all the way in when installed.

Or it might indicate that the clutch push rod might be buggered up or bent.

Or of course, it may indicate that the clutch itself is worn out.

And of course, there's always the missing steel ball thing.......
 

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Discussion Starter #12
yikes. well I ordered a digital caliper. So i guess I will taking this guy apart and measuring the stuff this weekend. Safe to ride it in the meantime? Would I feel this grinding action that you mentioned?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
ps. after taking the freeplay out it seemed to work just fine. Until this morning when riding it into work after maybe 1/4 mile I couldn't shift up into third gear. I got to red light and pulled in the clutch while stopping and it died. (this was on the west side high way in NY btw not the best place to stall). Anyway after getting it into neutral with some difficulty I pushed it off the road. At this point the clutch was super slack. All the freeplay had been taken out with the two cable adjusters previously and now there was far too much freeplay. By adjusting the sprocket cover clutch adjuster I was able to get it home but it is a bit past this horizontal point maybe pointed at about 4 o'clock/ 11 o'clock. Also there are numbers/letters stamped on the adjuster they seem to be upside down. I could not find any reference as to their orientation in the two service manuals I have.
 

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No, it's the arm (that the cable hooks into, #8) that should "sort of" horizontal - it's not reall absolutely critical, you just don't want the chain to rub on it when you pull in the clutch leevr. The screwdriver adjusting slot (#10) will be in an indeterminate postition.
There are actually two pieces involved - the inner part is what the cable tip connects to, the outer sleeve is what has the adjusting slot for the big screwdriver.

Remove the cover, loosen the adjusting bolt, and turn #8 within #10 until it's screwed all the way in.
Then turn both pieces as a single unit until the arm that holds the cable tip is sort of horizontal, and reattach the cable.
Then put it (the cover) back on and do the adjustment.
Also make sure that the fork thing (#11) isn't messed up or broken (it happens).
What about the steel ball - is it actually there??
Put grease on everything before reassembly. Grease will help keep the steel ball in place.
The clutch rod itself should have a concave (dished out) end and a convex (domed) end - the concave end goes to the steel ball.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
wow. Thanks for all the help. Don't know what I'd do with out ya Bill. Looks like I know what I'm doing with the rest of my afternoon. Thanks again! I'll keep yall posted on any progress.
 
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