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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

I am having trouble adjusting the clutch on my 72 cl 350. I am not sure what's doing this or how to correct it but when I shift from neutral to 1st (with clutch handle engaged) the bike jumps and stalls. When I have it up on the stand, I can see that even with the clutch pulled in, the tires are moving. Ugh! Any help would be great.

Thanks,
Rob
 

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Even with a properly adjusted clutch, when up on the stand with the engine running, the rear wheel will still like to turn. The viscosity of the oil causes the clutch plates to transfer power to the rear wheel slightly. I think I explained that right.. ;)

Although you DO have a clutch adjustment problem. If you haven't tried a search here for the adjustment procedure then I'd suggest that.


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Adjust it either up at the clutch lever by screwing out the adjuster and locking it with the retaining nut.. or better yet, adjust it down at the engine cover by following the clutch cable into the engine. The 12mm nut comes loose. Use a flathead screwdriver to turn the screw one way or the other until the clutch tightens up. Work the clutch with your hand to figure it out.

Hold the screw in one position when you're satisfied and retighten the 12mm nut on the engine case.

Have fun declutching.
 

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I believe the following to be true, someone correct me if this advice is erroneous.
Is this the first time you're running the bike? If it has been sitting for awhile, sometimes the plates will be "sticky" and they'll have a tendency to not release even with a properly adjusted clutch. This happened to me the first time I ran my 350.
I did the following:
Make sure you have the clutch adjusted properly per the manual. With the bike off the stand, start the engine, pull the clutch in, rev to 2500 or so, shift to first, clutch breaks free. You'll stay put because at this point the clutch spins freely.
Helpful?

edit:
That being said, disassembling the clutch and checking the plate is probably the proper thing to do and it's a fairly simple procedure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks everyone. Some real good stuff. I have been running the bike a lot actually this spring and it was running fine until I decided to work on it a little (D-OH!). This all makes good sense. I think I am going to have to loosen everything and start at 0 and go from there.

THANKS A TON!!!!!
 

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I will attempt to take pics of this later if I can, but it is rather simple once you figure it out. Took me a week until I did, and once I did I can do it in a couple of minutes now.


To adjust your clutch is pretty easy if you want to try that. Screw you cable adjuster on the clutch handle all the way out, then removethe rear crankcase cover and use the adjustment on top of the cover to place the clutch lever (the one under the crankcase) in a position just below horizontal with the pivot. There was actually a pointer of sorts under the case that was exactly where I needed it to be. Then you put it back on and adjust the slack with the clutch handle adjuster and you should be good to go on that. While you have the cover off you can check and makes sure everything under that is good.

This diagram is decent.
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmo...t-crankcase-cover-rear-cover/o/m9150sch395739
 

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Where is a good place to order a replacement cable?

I ordered one for my 76 CB360T from Motion Pro, but it doesnt really work. I ordered (and received) correct year of cable, but the length is wrong (I think). I have the adjustments at the case and handle bar all the way set to slack (to get the arm to drop below horizontal) and it JUST sets it at the correct position. I even had to remove the round lock collar on the handle bar adjuster to get more slack. So, it works kind of. It will kick out (that loud POP) now and then if you pull the lever too far in. You just have to wiggle the cable at the handle insert and it goes back into operation.

Maybe I just got a weird one, and other motion pro cables are fine.
 

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i solve the stuck plates by putting in 1st, and gently rock to and fro until the oil lets go, then start the bike. i hate that "munch" after it sits 2+ weeks. OR start in 1st with clutch disengaged (obviously).
 

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Would this be the reason I cant shift back to neutral after I put the bike off its stand?
Here are the facts.
Bike shifts into first and back into neutral fine when not turned on.
Bike shifts into first and back into neutral fine when its running on the center stand.
Bike will be hard to shift after I put the wheel on the ground.
When it does shift it shifts into second skips nuetral.
Bike rides fine and shifts into second while riding but I cant find neutral once I stop.
I have to turn the bike off in order to shift back into nuetral.
Bikes been sitting for two years just turned her on last night for the first time.
Drove around my parking lot today in fisrt and second.
Any tips?
 

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CL350:

i know what you mean. i have three different bikes each with their own clutch feel and shifting. i ride one for a few days then switch back to another and it takes a little while to get used to it again. same with my three cars, especially my un-sprung drag racing clutch civic with a 3x stock pressure plate vs the hydraulic clutch civic!

one of my cycles has been finicky lately about finding neutral while running without blipping the throttle or while coasting. so i added a dash of oil, only to discover the problem got worse. then i discovered that i overfilled the transmission (700cc, a 2 stroke). changed the oil and filled to correct level and the problem HAS gotten better. i still expect the positive stop that is on my CM450 when i need to "half shift" these other vintage Japanese..
 
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