Honda Twins banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys I am in the process of replacing what Honda calls the Thread, Clutch and Adjuster, Clutch (p/n 22810216030 and 22841216030) on my CB175K6. Together these parts rotate on threads and push on the clutch rod when you pull on the clutch lever.

The threads on mine developed some spalling which caused the clutch to stick in the disengaged position. It happened once last year, a couple times early this season and four times on my last ride. Unnerving in traffic to say the least!

Anyway I'm pretty sure poor lubrication is mostly to blame. I was never able to find a grease gun tip that worked with the zerk fitting on the left side crankcase cover. It looks like its pressed in so it might be possible to swap out but I dont want to damage the case cover. Any ideas? Thanks!

ScreenHunter_02 Aug. 13 10.11.jpg
ScreenHunter_01 Aug. 13 10.11.jpg
20190811_140050[1].jpg
20190811_152659[1].jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,295 Posts
Many change to a zerk fitting on swingarm bolts and other locations, but my solution to this (learned as a kid from my father) is to use this mini-grease gun - it's cheap and very effective, and it delivers a small amount of grease per pump so you don't overload small areas like that easily. The tiny tip fits into the opening where the check ball is, depresses the ball and open the hole in the fitting. They're currently out of stock there and you can find the same gun elsewhere, but everyone else wants a fortune for one

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/mini-grease-gun.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,452 Posts
+1, that's the same style grease gun I use, you can get at most small engine & chain saw shops. Fits any grease zerk, just the thing to a dab of grease where you need it or to run a thin line of grease around the edge of a side cover gasket. Drill a hole in the top and install a grease fitting so you can refill from a larger gun, no mess and no grease cartridges.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys I'll look into that little gun. Actually I suspect properly lubing the parts before I install them will be sufficient for a long long time. I just dont put that many miles on the bike and it never gets wet.

Here's a side thought: The parts I took off have some galling and there is just one spot (where the clutch had been disengaged) that sticks under pressure. Do you think I could put some valving lapping compound on the threads and re-polish everything back to smooth? What grit would I use?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hi Tom,

Here are some pics. In the first one you can see a flat spot on the thread, I suspect this is what is hanging up. It only happens under pressure and I can feel it if I press down as if my hand was the clutch rod pushing back while rotating the arm. The rest of the marks are probably from tooling and don't seem to prevent smooth rotation. It's difficult to get a shot inside the adjuster piece but i assume there is a matching flat spot in there someplace.

20190813_131434[1].jpg
20190813_131535[1].jpg
20190813_131552[1].jpg
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,295 Posts
I don't know if it would help, but you could try using a flat file to smooth off the spot and blend it in with the sections before and after it, then lube it up really well with grease that has graphite content in it and see how it responds. Or as you suggested, lapping compound might do the trick too... start with finer stuff first to be safe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm pretty good with a file and I might try touching up the flat spot and then lapping to address the damaged internal threads. But I've also ordered replacement parts from CMSNL and a new grey clutch cable from 4into1. The clutch pull always seemed a bit excessive to me for a 175 and I'd like to make it as silky smooth as possible. I'm going to be out of the country for a few weeks so this will all have to wait until September. Thanks again for the help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Safely in a jar at home Budlite! But when I was wiggling the side cover off guess what went PLOP into the oil drain pan? :rolleyes:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,295 Posts
I believe it's suppose to ride in the groove on that piece up there.

Looks like it's been distorted to allow the ball to ride out, causing the stiffness.
If you mean the ball bearing riding in the groove - the ball bearing goes into the center of the actuator mechanism to push the end of the clutch rod, which has a dimple in it to accommodate the ball, allowing the push movement to be smooth and not excessively turn or side-load the clutch rod

BTW, one of those links is a good price for a NOS replacement
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
105 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hi Budlite the ball bearing I'm talking about sits in the hole that also accepts the clutch push rod. The ball eliminates torsional forces from being transferred from the threaded arm to the push rod. I think the groove is a just a grease channel

ScreenHunter_04 Aug. 13 15.01.jpg

20190813_150742[1].jpg
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top