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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking at the sticky it describes taking the right side engine cover off to clean the filter? Unless I'm missing something, can I not just do this through the oil filter cover? I took it off and the spinner out, quite a mess in there. The odometer says 11,690, the screws are boogered up on the cover so I would say the one time it might have been cleaned they messed up the screws. So that piece in there that takes the special tool to remove, does it have to come out? If I just clean all the gunk out and change the oil, is that not good enough. If not please explain my faulty thought. thanks, reminder my first Honda Twin
 

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I think some models don't have the filter cover and you do have to remove the right side cover.
 

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I cut up a plastic container, (noosa yogurt works good), and slide it under the spinner. Then hit it with brake cleaner and a brush. No need to remove the cover, or take the spinner cup out. The spinner paddle has a 6mm1 thread, so you can use a bolt to pull it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I went to the hardware looking for a 6mm bolt to use and the 6-100 would only start a couple of threads. It must be a different pitch. I didn't need it, the cup or whatever it is called pulled out. The lock washer is cracked where can I find one?
 

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Lock washer? Do you mean one of the circlips, like the one that holds the rotor cap in? If that is what you mean, search for part number 90604-292-000.
 

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But you don't have to remove the lock nut on the end of the crankshaft where the oil filter cup mounts to clean the oil filter - only remove the cap to the filter cup, which it sounds like you've already done. If one of the tabs on the lock washer is bent over into one of the 4 notches in the nut, then as long as the oil filter cup is tight on the end of the crank it's fine. that only needs to be removed if you're doing more in-depth work inside the larger clutch cover including removal of the entire clutch basket and oil pump (or replacing the oil filter cup for whatever reason, not usual)
 

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I have done the CHEAT method of cleaning the filter as well

Here is a pic of how it works.
it's best to put a block of 2x4 under one leg of the center stand to get some extra downhill flow.

IMG_0467.JPG

With the plastic semi-funnel in place is use brake clean to flush it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Now you tell me. Anyway it was so full of crap I'm glad I did take it out what I found was the lock washer has cracked int and the washer under it which says on it "out side" wsa on backwards. So I would like to replace the lock washer but now I have to torque the nut back on. Not sure what the torque value is but I can look it up. Will I be able to put it in gear to get it tight enough? Another thing I think it would be good if only to put oil in start it up and let it idle till good and warm and drain it again. What about putting some sort of additive in to help clean it up? I'm not going to ride it or use the clutch or gears, just start and warm up. What's the thought about this?
 

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I wouldn't worry about the cleanup oil change, it's the way these things ran for thousands of miles long ago and it still works fine. You get the filter cup clean (and BTW - you didn't ask if you had to remove the cup! :D ) and the oil change will be enough. When you say the lock tab is cracked, do you mean the circle around the crankshaft threaded end is broken? or just a tab or two missing? It only needs one tab to bend into the nut, and that's only a failsafe for the spring washer that goes on correctly and serves as a lock washer. Hard to believe it says "outside" in big letters and yet the PO didn't see it... probably why the lock tab got damaged
 

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AND, be sure to align the oil feed holes in the small cover with the holes in the inner edge of the large clutch cover so you don't block oil flow out of the pump into the filter and out, then up to the top end and the rest of the engine - massive damage will result in a hurry (in other words, make sure you put the small cover back on exactly as you took it off, don't rotate it one outer screw hole)
 

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On the first time "YOU" change your own oil on a used bike it's best to do it the factory way.

I'm with Ancientdad I would just ride it and give it a early change. giive it a couple of hundred miles maybe (2-3) tanks of fuel then change it and open up the filter.

If it's still really nasty then you can think about some type of flush
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Ok thanks guys you have been a great help. So it goes back together a little later today with the old tab washer and the other one will say out side on the out side. Plan on putting it on the ground and in 1st gear and hopefully I can get it torqued right. Next oil change I will do it as shown, I'm glad I did take it out this time because of how dirty it was i soaked it overnight in gas and now it's clean as a whistle. Supposed to be about 70 tomorrow might even get my first ride in on her.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Another twist, I'm fixin to put the drive chain cover back on and the piece of metal you put the clutch cable into is broken and appears that that is all part of the clutch lifter thread. That is what it is called in the diagram anyway. It supposedly worked before, my nephew rode it and he said the clutch and shifter worked fine. I don't see how it could have got damaged as it is but it is. What I'm thinking I'll do is get the cable into the slot as good as I can put the two halves together and use a zip tie to secure it. As long as it doesn't interfere with the movement I think it should be good to go. I hope.
 

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Another twist, I'm fixin to put the drive chain cover back on and the piece of metal you put the clutch cable into is broken and appears that that is all part of the clutch lifter thread. That is what it is called in the diagram anyway. It supposedly worked before, my nephew rode it and he said the clutch and shifter worked fine. I don't see how it could have got damaged as it is but it is. What I'm thinking I'll do is get the cable into the slot as good as I can put the two halves together and use a zip tie to secure it. As long as it doesn't interfere with the movement I think it should be good to go. I hope.
Let's see a picture of its condition before you assemble it - sometimes things are salvageable on that part, sometimes not, but I hear you on the fact that it ran and the clutch and shift worked before.
 

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A wider than original o-ring chain probably took it out. I wouldn't count on a tie strap, and a future clutch adjustment might take it out for good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I am still having trouble figuring out how to post pic's from my phone on here or I would have been all along. My smart phone is smarter than I am and I am really not a tech kind of guy. It is back together and it started right up. I did not ride it just brought it up to temp. It started and idled great but it has no filters on the carbs. I put some pods on the PO included and it still started and idled great. The PO had the bowl over flow tubes tied in a knot and routed high and when I lowered them they leaked gas, the right side worse than the left. I guess the float needs adjustment and seat and needle cleaned.Looks like my ride might not be till later in the day or Monday. Oh well
 
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