The only thing that should be used in an ultrasonic cleaner is hot water and Dawn dish soap. And DO NOT put anodized/plated steel parts into one. It will remove the anodizing and the steel will rust. I went back to using carb dip.
Like what Tools said, but I use deionized water. PH is important, Simple Green is on the base side of neutral. This will make the solution caustic and dissolve metal. Tap water can be caustic to. Deionized water and Dawn dish soap will not hurt any material or coating. Hot water works best.
I've used Berrymans in my ultrasonic for years and through many carbs. It will, like detergents, stain the alloy if left in over night sometimes. I usually run the ultrasonic 30 min at a time, take parts out to inspect, rinse, brush and blow off with air and repeat if needed. The ultrasonic wasn't needed until I started having so much trouble with todays swill for fuel. The tinyest passages and blind areas and the worst blend of gel-scale-corrosion I've ever seen will benefit from the ultrasonic. One thing for sure it won't hurt your parts, only the solution used will do that. Oh, if your machine has heat I would leave it off for starters, it seems to accelerate dark staining on alloy parts.
BTW... the dark staining on parts from cleaners can be brushed and rinsed off but it's a real pain if you want the carb to look nice and new. The water based detergents seem to be worst offenders for me, prob the phosphates. I have zinc shot blasted parts afterwards if I forgot and left parts in too long. But the extra cleaning is busy work and I despise busy work...
Wow, thanks for all of the suggestions! I'm reminded of a story a police armorer once told me about a weapons inspection he performed. An officer had lots of whiteish slimey scum in his weapon. When asked if he cleaned it, he said yes - with Cascade in his dish washer! Hmm, Cascade, carbs, dishwasher?
I have been using 50/50 distilled water and Awesome from a dollar store recommended by fasterspider on VJMOG. Set the Ultrasonic to 130 degrees for 1 hour. I like it because it is non-toxic. Is there any other cleaner that is non-toxic and environmentally friendly?
rebuilding carbs and need both floats. How are the aftermarket one compared to OEM? Wise to spend extra for OEM? Also do the original float needle valve assemblies wear? Thought about getting new OEM ones too. New to all of this so all help is appreciated
Has anyone found a creative way to replace a missing throttle shaft plug on a carburetor? Of course, this would be the easy solution:
But before I spend $18 on a couple aluminum coins, I figured I’d ask. Thanks.
I bought a 73 CL350 recently and noticed the two brass nipples on the carb bowls had been soldered closed. When I took the carbs apart, I found that the tube on the inside of the bowl for both carbs was broken off, so that explains the solder. I'm having trouble getting my float height dialed in...
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