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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up my new 1966 CL77 yesterday, and it doesn't look too bad overall. Drained the tank, flushed the lines, and cleaned a bit of old gas out of the carbs, and it runs quite nicely! Now I'm going to start digging into it.

So I was kicking it for a while and nothing, but putting it on the battery charger it fired right up first kick. I charged up the battery completely and took it for a quick test ride, and the battery went flat after about 5 miles. I'm assuming it's a bad voltage regulator but what else should I check?

It's definitely going to need electrical work to some degree, but aside from that, the only problem I had during the ride was the clutch lever was incredibly stiff. I assume that isn't normal, but is there an adjustment I should check? I'm familiar with single cylinder Hondas but this is my first twin, so I don't know much about this engine.

Other than that, and the grab bar being snapped so the fender hangs low and rubs the tire, it seems to be in great mechanical shape and almost ready to hit the road. Everything else I want to change/fix is just cosmetic or just general maintenance. I do know a lot of parts are aftermarket, and I'm leaning towards this having been a race bike at some point, but I'll likely keep most of the modifications aside from the headlight and crappy chinese air cleaners

Fuel tank Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive lighting
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Awesome thanks! I'll do that tomorrow!
 

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So I was kicking it for a while and nothing, but putting it on the battery charger it fired right up first kick. I charged up the battery completely and took it for a quick test ride, and the battery went flat after about 5 miles. I'm assuming it's a bad voltage regulator but what else should I check?
These bikes did not come with voltage regulators which even garden tractors come with now as a combination rectifier & regulator. These can be fitted quite nicely into the circuit and it's not uncommon to do so. If you have a device with four square orange coloured fins then you have the original rectifier.

In these old bikes the battery serves as a voltage regulator of sorts as it brings low system voltage up to the battery voltage by discharging to the system and lowers high system voltage by recharging from the system. The bike won't run if the battery can't do this anymore.

I would check out the battery before replacing anything else. These old charging systems along with the vibration are very hard on lead-acid batteries so getting a few years out of one is about all you can expect. I am happy with my Motobat maintenance free version but I can't say yet how long it will last.
 

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Just picked up my new 1966 CL77 yesterday, and it doesn't look too bad overall. Drained the tank, flushed the lines, and cleaned a bit of old gas out of the carbs, and it runs quite nicely! Now I'm going to start digging into it.

So I was kicking it for a while and nothing, but putting it on the battery charger it fired right up first kick. I charged up the battery completely and took it for a quick test ride, and the battery went flat after about 5 miles. I'm assuming it's a bad voltage regulator but what else should I check?

It's definitely going to need electrical work to some degree, but aside from that, the only problem I had during the ride was the clutch lever was incredibly stiff. I assume that isn't normal, but is there an adjustment I should check? I'm familiar with single cylinder Hondas but this is my first twin, so I don't know much about this engine.

Other than that, and the grab bar being snapped so the fender hangs low and rubs the tire, it seems to be in great mechanical shape and almost ready to hit the road. Everything else I want to change/fix is just cosmetic or just general maintenance. I do know a lot of parts are aftermarket, and I'm leaning towards this having been a race bike at some point, but I'll likely keep most of the modifications aside from the headlight and crappy chinese air cleaners

View attachment 319905
Hello, the CL77 has no voltage regulator, may be a wiring issue. Reproduction control cables are available at Classic Honda Restorations.com, in Md. Many CL77 restoration parts available on the website.
Good Luck, HondaJohn
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
These bikes did not come with voltage regulators which even garden tractors come with now as a combination rectifier & regulator. These can be fitted quite nicely into the circuit and it's not uncommon to do so. If you have a device with four square orange coloured fins then you have the original rectifier.

In these old bikes the battery serves as a voltage regulator of sorts as it brings low system voltage up to the battery voltage by discharging to the system and lowers high system voltage by recharging from the system. The bike won't run if the battery can't do this anymore.

I would check out the battery before replacing anything else. These old charging systems along with the vibration are very hard on lead-acid batteries so getting a few years out of one is about all you can expect. I am happy with my Motobat maintenance free version but I can't say yet how long it will last.
Ok, so it appears that it does have the original rectifier, do those commonly go bad? I'm fairly certain my battery is good but I am ordering a replacement, probably a sealed one, soon. Should I also retrofit a modern voltage regulator/rectifier too while I'm at it? The wiring doesn't look amazing, but it doesn't seem to have any other electrical issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hello, the CL77 has no voltage regulator, may be a wiring issue. Reproduction control cables are available at Classic Honda Restorations.com, in Md. Many CL77 restoration parts available on the website.
Good Luck, HondaJohn
Thanks, I'll definitely check them out and I'll probably be ordering some stuff from them, but the clutch cable, although it's starting to crack, seems to be fine, it feels like it's not adjusted correctly or has too much spring pressure rather than a sticky cable. I haven't found a chance to adjust it yet but I'm planning on doing that soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I guess just ignore my last reply, I ended up buying a used harness that's in nice shape, along with a good used stator just in case. I just need an ignition switch now and the electrical system should be sorted once I fit all the new parts.

Tonight I got to looking at the rear end of the bike. Cut off a bracket that was welded on for an aftermarket seat, got the remains of the grab bar out of the tubes, and realized the shocks are leaking, so I'll have to source new ones from somewhere. Seems like this thing keeps getting worse as I dig into it, looking like it'll be an over the winter project rather than a couple weeks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm looking into ordering a new set of rear shocks at the moment, but I was wondering if someone could just confirm my measurements before I do. I can't seem to find my calipers at the moment, so I was just using a ruler and want to double check.

I measured the top bolt at 6mm diameter, and the bottom at 8mm. I'm going to be replacing the bottom bushings to use a larger size bolt, so I'm mainly questioning the top bolt size, 6mm seems awfully small for shocks.
 

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Just picked up my new 1966 CL77 yesterday, and it doesn't look too bad overall. Drained the tank, flushed the lines, and cleaned a bit of old gas out of the carbs, and it runs quite nicely! Now I'm going to start digging into it.

So I was kicking it for a while and nothing, but putting it on the battery charger it fired right up first kick. I charged up the battery completely and took it for a quick test ride, and the battery went flat after about 5 miles. I'm assuming it's a bad voltage regulator but what else should I check?

It's definitely going to need electrical work to some degree, but aside from that, the only problem I had during the ride was the clutch lever was incredibly stiff. I assume that isn't normal, but is there an adjustment I should check? I'm familiar with single cylinder Hondas but this is my first twin, so I don't know much about this engine.

Other than that, and the grab bar being snapped so the fender hangs low and rubs the tire, it seems to be in great mechanical shape and almost ready to hit the road. Everything else I want to change/fix is just cosmetic or just general maintenance. I do know a lot of parts are aftermarket, and I'm leaning towards this having been a race bike at some point, but I'll likely keep most of the modifications aside from the headlight and crappy chinese air cleaners

View attachment 319905
There is a small wire that is supposed to retain the first clutch disc/plate. Sometimes people will put that wire on before installing plates and clutches and it preloads the clutch making it very difficult to pull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is a small wire that is supposed to retain the first clutch disc/plate. Sometimes people will put that wire on before installing plates and clutches and it preloads the clutch making it very difficult to pull.
That could definitely be it. I have yet to get my shop manual in the mail, but I'll check it when I get that. I assume I'd have to pull the left side cover off to check, can't get to it from the kick start side? I do know this engine was apart, it had a top end rebuild and probably more, so that could definitely be it
 

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That could definitely be it. I have yet to get my shop manual in the mail, but I'll check it when I get that. I assume I'd have to pull the left side cover off to check, can't get to it from the kick start side? I do know this engine was apart, it had a top end rebuild and probably more, so that could definitely be it
I've worked on Honda bikes since 1966 and serviced many clutches on many models at Honda dealerships. The only model I recall with the wire in the clutch assembly was the 250/305 cc models. Correct me if you know otherwise.
If all the other models don't have that item in the clutch, I have to think it's not needed, so my current CL77 has none installed since 2016. No issues so far. With the different thickness of replacement discs, a problem can occur. Get rid of the wire. Good Luck. John
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I've worked on Honda bikes since 1966 and serviced many clutches on many models at Honda dealerships. The only model I recall with the wire in the clutch assembly was the 250/305 cc models. Correct me if you know otherwise.
If all the other models don't have that item in the clutch, I have to think it's not needed, so my current CL77 has none installed since 2016. No issues so far. With the different thickness of replacement discs, a problem can occur. Get rid of the wire. Good Luck. John
Very good to know, thanks! I don't think I'm seeing it in the parts diagram though, what am I actually looking for when I open it up? Also, do I need to pull the side cover off or can I access the clutch through the smaller cover on that side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, I'm working on the electrical system now, and the ignition switch and fork lock. Looking at the locks, I can definitely repair them myself. But I need to know what bikes used the same style keys as this. My plan is to buy a set of locks for a more common bike, and gut them for the tumblers and use the keys that come with them for this bike. My CT70, XL70, '68 CT90, and CT110 all use different style locks to this so they aren't much help.

Edit: I did find out my bike is a 1965, so I believe it uses a different style lock to the later ones
 

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Ok, I'm working on the electrical system now, and the ignition switch and fork lock. Looking at the locks, I can definitely repair them myself. But I need to know what bikes used the same style keys as this. My plan is to buy a set of locks for a more common bike, and gut them for the tumblers and use the keys that come with them for this bike. My CT70, XL70, '68 CT90, and CT110 all use different style locks to this so they aren't much help.

Edit: I did find out my bike is a 1965, so I believe it uses a different style lock to the later ones
The Honda Keys site may be of use to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks like everywhere is out of the key blanks for my bike unfortunately... I'm going to call around to some locksmiths and see if they will fit some tumblers to my lock if I get precut keys
 

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Looks like everywhere is out of the key blanks for my bike unfortunately... I'm going to call around to some locksmiths and see if they will fit some tumblers to my lock if I get precut keys
It's been quite a while (decades) but I have had keys cut at a locksmith's which tells me that they had blanks available. If that's the case they should be able to decode the lock and make a new key to fit your core.

I hope I'm right. It's the small things that make maintaining these old bike a bit tedious and frustrating.
 
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