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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are the front and rear shoes the same part number. (On a 70 and 72 cl450)

The '72 needs new shoes on front and rear. Ebay and most vendors only show rear shoes. The 72 has "new looking shoes" on it but they have some grooves cut in them at an angle and they dont stop worth a darn. And apparently are a bit small as the cable is adjusted all the way on top and bottom to barely get a good adjustment, but they still barely stop. I suspect they are the wrong shoes. Anyone seen shoes with grooves cut in at 45 degree angles??? The backs are adjusted a bunch also, but at least they have some fairly normal stopping power. I hate to pull off the levers/arms off the drums and re-key them due to wrong size shoes with funky grooves. Some of the ebay shoes have holes on one end, and others only have the half circle. Whats up with that. Some shoes have holes on both ends for springs, the other do not in the pictures. Give one a lot to wonder about as to what will really fit and work correctly. This is the bike that had a shifter problem, bad ignition,, bad carbs, bad starter, Bad starter clutch, and bad wiring, broken gauges, missing headlight, that I have finally brought back to life. It was supposidly a "parts bike" that came with the other 450 I purchased. Now I'm down to brakes, maybe a clutch and some new tires.. a wash job wouldnt hurt as well, but its alive and running. I want to get the last few things fixed before I get it inspected and ready for the world.

thanks in advance.
 

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oddly I was looking at this today for my 72 cl, the folks at vintage brakes list the front shoe as 200mm x 30 for an early cb450 drum front (same as the cl all years)

and no, it is a different part front and rear.

item V117 on this page: http://www.vintagebrake.com/shoes.htm

As for the 45 degree groves it is a pretty common performance mod, helps evacuate gasses dust and water.

When I first bought my 450 the front brakes were a total joke, but after a quick adjustment they work fine
1. loosen the tie bar and thread the hand lever adjuster all the way in
2. tighten the cable for slight brake drag @ the wheel end (may have to tighten the lever end as well)
3. tighten the tie bar til brake drag roughly doubles
4. loosen the cable till drag stops
5. tighten all jam nuts!

If you remove your front tire and axle:
hold the brakes on while tightening the axle (big zip tie) while reasembling
word is that a properly set up dual leading shoe drum is as good or better than a period disk..

If your brakes really work like poo, measure the inside diameter of the drum then measure the outside of the brake shoes mounted on the backer plate and fully relaxed, they should be pretty close, perhaps Steve or Bill knows the proper spec.. I have read it should be .010 of an inch when arcing new shoes, but I have no real personal experience.

my only other thought is that your brake cable may be stretched or just plain wrong, sorry I'm not home or I would send you the proper measurement for inner vs outer cable length... no telling what could have made its way out of Ebay and onto your ride.. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm thinking that I have 180's on the front and the back.. .


Anyone know where to get a set of 200x30's for the front.
 
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