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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got what I think is the general tune up wrapped up, however, being my first time around, I haven't got a clue as to IF it all sounds like it's right... which is likely a lot of new kids.
This is a '75 CL360 I picked up in January, from a close buddy who purchased it from a fella in Kalamazoo. Supposedly it was a Barn Find, and he'd gotten it back up and running... though, without any service log or any real feedback, I'm flying blind. It was running, before it sat for about 18 months, with Seafoam.
First day, i drained the tank, put new gas in, topped off with oil, and kicked the crap out of it and it fired up. Didn't sound "great" but it ran.
I'd talked over some work to be done with a great local guy, but, I'm not sure if you've heard, there was a global pandemic that kind of put a hold on things. So, I got to work, and guess I'll ask to have it checked.

Performed by ME
1- √ - Checked lines lube cables: clutch, brakes etc
2- √ - Fork Oil Replaced
3- √ - Oil Change (scraped and cleaned the centrifuge filter too)
4- √ - Petcock Replaced (was leaking and stinking up the old lady's bedroom)
5- √ - Carb Cleaned √ - New Float Needles √ - New Carb Gaskets (Float/ Float Drain/ Idle Mix)
6- √ - Cam Chain tensioner (Pre Recall Bike, and neither of the last two owners swapped it for the Post Recall one)
7- √ - Disassembled Tach and Greased
8- √ - Set Tensioner, Valve heights and ignition timing and Cam chain


1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and even 6 - Simple

7 - Tachometer Stuck - and I know a lot of folks seem to not want to split these. It was a LOT simpler than I'd imagined and just takes patience when prying up the band. I probably went around the thing 8-10 times with a tiny flat head, then a standard size, and it just pulled out. It was sticking at about 0-3000. I turned and worked it loose for a bit, and it would feel good, then get sticky again. Finally, bc I thought I'd have to buy one, I put some oil on the bottom dome of the needle and worked it around and around, then spun a drill (counter clockwise) in it revving it and revving it. Checked it again later that night, and reinstalled. Works great and saved $30-$80 (NOS is $275!!!)

8 - Valve Clearance - This is where the video feedback will help. I went through the process 3 separate times. Thought I had it down, as I'd checked the feelers at least 3 times before I closed up the valves. A mechanic buddy up the block who does high end cars and has a handful of toys, drove by as I JUST started it and said, "That's great it's running. Sound like the valves need to be adjusted." Wind out of sails, of course. So, Again I dive in. Still thought there was a tick... This morning I did it again, and that's where I took the video, as it's a tight .400 and tight 003, but tighter than I'd been willing to go on the last few times.

So, what I THINK I'll do and what I'll have the shop do
Me
10 - New Chain and Sprockets
ordered - Stock Sizes - Can't see this being an issue. Anything I need to pay attention too? Clutch cable? I've got some time until they arrive as well as the Torque Wrench (I guess I need one)

Shop:

11- Horn still won't sound, and it's NOT bc it was hanging there on the exhaust pipe... I see it too, and I've got the new one in the box, still. EVERY OTHER electric function works on the bars, and I just can't find where the disconnect is. Need an inspection, so this is annoying

12- Tires and Brakes - Old Cheng Shins look fine, but I finally learned what the 3 numbers meant, as I was looking for 4. So, being that they are stamped 041 and 022, I'm thinking I really need to take it easy in the neighborhood on 30 year old tires. I don't want to tear a bunch of tubes or buy new tools and I figure he can give it a look over and clean up what needs cleaning/ adjusting as he'll know
Same $ to toss the drums in there while he does the tires. They work, and they aren't near the pad wear warning, but being that the tires are that old, I can't see that they are miraculously going to be in any shape to take into the city and feel safe.

*** TIRE QUESTION I know the stock is 3.00 and 3.50. I can't find a good answer on this. Had been looking at Heidenaus K34's
IF i wanted to match treads, and go with the 3.25 on the front, instead of the K33 3.00 is there ANY rider benefit to going up the 1/4"?
I know I can, but is there ANY positive or negative effect of sizing up that front?

13 - Vacuum Synch Carbs - I bench synched them, but I don't have the kit. CM has one for $75, but it's running fine and I can get new brakes for the same price, so I'm trying to be reasonable with what I need to perform... my ego isn't that fragile.

I've cleaned about as much as I could on this with being out of work, but I'd be curious to know If this sounds acceptable, and or IF there is anything I've missed for a look over. I'd rather know, now, than on the Triborough Bridge or The BQE whenever I get to go home.

ELECTRIC START
Vids are pretty much the same, BUT Electric start on 2nd. For some reason, it will ONLY fire up with the button after it's been warmed up. I can live with that, if it's a matter of rebuilding the starter clutch etc. If anybody has the same issue, I'm all ears on the fix. When Cold, it will just spin, and spin, and not engage, when warm, you'll see it'd immediate.

Thanks for listening


video 1
CL360 Sounds Overview Kick
video 2
CL360 Sounds Overview E Start
video 3
CL360 Sounds from afar
 

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It doesn't sound bad at all, possibly the valves are ticking a bit but it's not as loud as many we hear and the cam chain sounds pretty decent as well. Starter clutch didn't slip in the electric start video but it only turned for a second. It's a typical repair needed on a bike that's as old as it is. At the very least you should replace the caps, springs and rollers in the starter clutch. To do it properly you should remove the front sprocket cover and alternator cover, though some manage to get the rotor back on working just through the timing cover over the rotor (large 3 screw cover with Honda molded into it). Here's something that will help you with your parts searches

Oh, and if you let that horn continue to hang against the header pipe, it will eventually melt the plastic on the outside of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It doesn't sound bad at all, possibly the valves are ticking a bit but it's not as loud as many we hear and the cam chain sounds pretty decent as well. Starter clutch didn't slip in the electric start video but it only turned for a second. It's a typical repair needed on a bike that's as old as it is. At the very least you should replace the caps, springs and rollers in the starter clutch. To do it properly you should remove the front sprocket cover and alternator cover, though some manage to get the rotor back on working just through the timing cover over the rotor (large 3 screw cover with Honda molded into it). Here's something that will help you with your parts searches

Oh, and if you let that horn continue to hang against the header pipe, it will eventually melt the plastic on the outside of it
@ancientdad Thanks for taking a look/ listen.
On the valves; that puts me MUCH more at ease. Worrying about going too tight was the issue I kept having, and without an experienced ear, I couldn't tell what was too loud. Helps to know I'm at least on the right track.
Thanks for the info on the starter clutch. I've seen the Common Motor vid. When it's warm, it starts up that fast, but when cold, it just spins. I'll look to get a handle on that fix, and for the time being, I'm okay with kicking it when cold, but will put that on on the list.

ohhhh yeah, I noticed the horn after i took the video, of course. It took a bit of heat, but cleaned it off immediately. Had let it hang to get a good angle at the valve, and just didn't see it, there.

On the Tires, which is something I can't seem to get a good rider experienced read on, any opinions on sizing up to the 3.25 on the front and keeping the 3.50 on the rear?
Will there be ANY benefit to that increased .25" and matching the K34 treads?

Again, thanks for your attention, and feedback.
c
 

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Lemme guess CMC said .003" and .004" because its better to be a bit loose than a bit tight. Correct measurements are .002" and .003" so you are loose and to my ears as a guy that owns one and has set the clearance a few times over the last 10 years its a bit tappy. I've shared this with many other members as it was told to me years ago by someone that had done many valve adjustments. When setting the clearance use a go/ nogo approach. IF the NEXT FULL size UP gauge will go under without much of a fight its still too loose. The bottom of the rocker screw is round as well so it should feel slightly tight when you drag the correct gauge through but not enough to open the valve.

Tires, larger front will slow turning down, and change the rake slightly, and probably make the speedo even more off than it is. None of them are accurate so there is that. Personally I like the light feeling mine has its a fun little.

Little bit of advice, take what you see on CMC's videos with a grain of salt, get a proper factory service manual if you do not have one and use it. They are not always correct or even sane with what they show.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
@frogman79 I really appreciate you taking the time to check this thread. You are spot on, with regard to the CMC assumption. I hear you on the, "grain of salt," rec. However anybody might take it, their "brand," whether one might look at it as catering to the novice rider, is pretty attractive to a kid (I'm 40) who is looking to learn, and who's confidence hasn't been built. Their vids are vast, they're detailed, and they look like "me." Most of the new guys, like me, just don't want to break anything, have a crappy ride, or die... and my first car was a Samurai, but that had a [bent] roll bar. I never thought twice about it.
I most certainly overshot the gaps on the valves 4 times this week due to that first sentence, and the fact is, had I simply taken the manual as brass tacks, I'd have avoided at least 2 of those 4 tank drains.
If this thread can help anybody it's due to exactly what you said:

When setting the clearance use a go/ nogo approach. IF the NEXT FULL size UP gauge will go under without much of a fight its still too loose. The bottom of the rocker screw is round as well so it should feel slightly tight when you drag the correct gauge through but not enough to open the valve.

Tires: I'd assumed it would slower turning, though, I'd imagined that the extra 1/4" couldn't hurt with road grip. From your input, it seems that it's just best to stay with the factory specs, if not only from a performance stance. I guess they'd have put a 3.25" on the front in 1975 if a 3.25" handled better. I would still ask, is there ANY benefit to upsizing that tire, or is it a wash?
Thanks again for the attention.
c
 

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Don't worry you're not the only 40 year old kid here, mine was last November. I got mine 10 or so years ago after not riding anything for a good 5 years, but I've been a gear head most of my life. I've been working on various air cooled engines since I was old enough to mow the lawn. Learning on various lawnmower and dirt bike engines taught me the feel after a number of tries.

I only make the mention of the tire as the 1/4" is added to the diameter which will make the tire wider also. This will affect how it handles but by how much I can't tell you. There are various online websites that can show you the range of tire sizes a particular rim size will fit and be OK. I dont have one currently handy but this was recently discussed on the forums. I THINK Knoxes started it about his 350.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

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Your note about the tach repair is interesting because I believe I have the same issue on my 360. If you have any pix or further info, I’d appreciate it, thanks! Feel free to just message me in a conversation if you don’t want to clutter this thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
@Spino Unfortunately didn't take pics of that, only bc once you pry the band back and separate the back from the top piece (glass and black cylinder) there isn't much else to take apart.
This kind fella, fupabox on youtube had more issues than I, but it's what gave me an idea of what to expect.

I did NOT attempt to take the mechanism apart beyond what he has here. I just spun the needle to feel where the resistance was, and realized that while I could work it free, it would bog and stick within a few minutes. The two screws he's referring to are liberally "welded" to the brackets, and I figured it would be a certain strip job and I'd never get it back together properly... you'll see how delicate the spiral springs are.
First started with some alcohol on q tips to see if it was some gunk... didn't do much,
I put some oil at the base of the needle post, that I can only describe as a "bell" as the entire piece spins, though you can't see what is below the bell, as it's covered by a larger bell that it spins below.
There is a tab bent up that is the needle stopper (at 0 rpm) and I put some oil in that hole when I spun by hand to around 1200.
You can either, DELICATELY, work the needle, or work it from the part of the bell that turns.
I had to keep reminding myself to avoid touching the face, a LOT, and I never put more lube than what dribbled out of the spray tube, never directly sprayed into the mechanism.
That's the bell, and the "outer bell" covers about 1/2 of it.
307118
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I might be the unluckiest son of a gun I know...

Today, the bike was finished. Tires on and beaded, New chain and sprockets, I even got the damn horn finally fixed... it was FINISHED.

I had the tank off tracing the horn ground and decided to just check the tensioner, valve clearance and timing before I truly began to enjoy the journey.

Loosened up the cam chain bolt and began to snug it back in and SNAP... I am too numb to know how bad to feel about this and I have NO idea how big of a deal this is to get out.

I never even got to take a ride with the bike having EVERYTHING that it needed done.
Please let me know if this just destroyed the summer. the bolt seems pretty deep in there, will post pics, in a minute, but I've only seen one thread that says, "drill it out"

ANY help would be appreciated.
clayton

It doesn't sound bad at all, possibly the valves are ticking a bit but it's not as loud as many we hear and the cam chain sounds pretty decent as well. Starter clutch didn't slip in the electric start video but it only turned for a second. It's a typical repair needed on a bike that's as old as it is. At the very least you should replace the caps, springs and rollers in the starter clutch. To do it properly you should remove the front sprocket cover and alternator cover, though some manage to get the rotor back on working just through the timing cover over the rotor (large 3 screw cover with Honda molded into it). Here's something that will help you with your parts searches

Oh, and if you let that horn continue to hang against the header pipe, it will eventually melt the plastic on the outside of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I might be the unluckiest son of a gun I know...

Today, the bike was finished. Tires on and beaded, New chain and sprockets, I even got the damn horn finally fixed... it was FINISHED.

I had the tank off tracing the horn ground and decided to just check the tensioner, valve clearance and timing before I truly began to enjoy the journey.

Loosened up the cam chain bolt and began to snug it back in and SNAP... I am too numb to know how bad to feel about this and I have NO idea how big of a deal this is to get out.

I never even got to take a ride with the bike having EVERYTHING that it needed done.
Please let me know if this just destroyed the summer. the bolt seems pretty deep in there, will post pics, in a minute, but I've only seen one thread that says, "drill it out"

ANY help would be appreciated.
clayton
311097
 
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