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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I'm in the process of wiring my CL360 from scratch, using this kick-only wiring diagram:

cb360wiringKICKONLY.jpg

But instead of the stock regulator and rectifier used in the diagram, I am doing the 3 terminal 12v15a Kohler regulator/rectifier upgrade that I found in another thread:

IMG_4932.JPG

which has 3 terminals. AC, B+, AC.

Also, my ignition switch (which I think is stock) has three positions- OFF, red dot (accessories?), IGNITION. There are four wires coming out of it- RED, BLACK, SOLID BROWN, BROWN/WHITE STRIPE:

IMG_4936.JPG

According to the diagram, and using the new regulator/rectifier and this ignition, how should I wire things? I'm just learning wiring and am not sure what wires to use from my ignition switch or how to wire the new regulator/rectifier.

Btw I received the bike with messy not stock wiring and decided to use this as an opportunity to learn a bit about wiring and electrical systems. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
It helps... I've read through the whole thread and I understand better, but it still doesn't answer my question. I will ask the same question in that thread, but here's what I'm looking at now:

Original diagram with separate regulator and rectifier
cb360wiringKICKONLY.jpg

My modification, using the new Kohler unit:
cb360wiringKICKONLY Kohler mod 01.png

My two questions:

1. Did I do that right?
2. What do the B, Y, BL, B/W and R wires coming out of the key switch in the diagram correspond to on my key switch, shown below:
IMG_4936.JPG

My guess is that R on the diagram corresponds to the red wire on my key switch, but I don't know where the two brown wires (one is with a white stripe) and the black wire on my key switch connect to.
 

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Your "adapted" drawing is correct as long as you ground the rectifier/regulator, which I see you've indicated......You can use the unconnected "B" wire to go to your horn....

On the original switch, use only the red and black wires and connect as they are shown in the drawing (R and B)

That is the simplest possibility, not the only one, but I'd need to know what lighting switches you will be using as well.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
So am I connecting everything (BL, Y, and BW in the diagram) to the black wire on my switch like this?

cb360wiringKICKONLY Kohler mod 02.png

Were the brown wires previously for the starter?
 

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Sensei
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YES...The connections are now correct for the bike to run and have lighting using the original ignition switch.....
NO....The Brown/White and Brown wires WERE for the lighting circuit, mostly to separate the headlight and taillight so the taillight is on regardless of headlight in hi or low......
In the new schematic, the taillight comes on with the key, and only the headlight is secondarily switched....IF you want the light-switch to also operate/control the taillight, it is dependent on what switch you are using for the headlights ....stock, toggle-switch...What?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool. All this makes me want to go to school for electrical engineering. Just so I can learn all this mystical stuff. Like how that R/R is regulating when it doesn't look like it's wired to anything but the stator and battery.

Thanks 66Sprint, and Quixote for the link.
 

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think of the R/R as the mediator between the stator and battery. On these bikes everything electrical runs off the battery. The stator is just there to produce the current required to keep the battery charged, but because the current it produces varries with engine speed it requires the R/R to keep from frying the battery. Batteries can be damaged by over charging as well as under-charging. You will find that below 3000 RPM the bike will actually drain the battery faster than the stator can keep it charged. That is why, even with no electric starter, you will still need a 12ah battery. That is what the bike was designed to run on. Anything less will work for a while but the battery won't last very long because of how drained it becomes. Eliminating the electric starter will save some weight but it will not do anything to reduce the overall load on the battery during normal operation. I fried three 4ah batteries before I figured this out.


Dan

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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dstar77, most of what you say is right. However, the bike runs on the alternator, not the battery. The battery is for providing the power needed to start (Both for the ignition and the starter motor), provides a safety to absorb surges from the generator, and to provide emergency electric if the alternator fails or fails to put out enough electric. The "emergency electyric " does come into to play at idle. FWIW, you should not idle these engines if you can help it. While sitting at a light is ok, you should not let it idle after starting longer then the time needed to run stable. Don't push a cold engine, but the best way to warm up is to do it at higher RPM than idle, under load.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You shouldn't idle? Well I'm not planning on idling very much, it's just not as fun.

Thanks for everyone's help, I'm still working on it but slowly around my work schedule and whatnot. I do have the wiring done as far as I know; I'm just doing other small things like cleaning out the gas tank.
 

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What's mean by not idling is the charging systems most times are not adequate enough to charge the battery and run the lights and ignition at an idle. Even in proper tune you are loosing juice the longer you idle.
 

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Honda uses Red for +12v from the battery, then Black is hot with the ignition switch in the run position and Black with a white stripe to be hot to the coils when the kill switch is in the run position. Green is ground. All of the grounds in you diagram should be connected and then grounded. All of the other wires are for lights, horn and ignition.

You may not want to put a fuse in your headlight and use a 15A main fuse. Honda does that.
 

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Honda Wiring Color Codes This link and other links like it have been very helpful to me. It lets you see what the Source of the power is and also the direction of the Flow. By using the chart,you see right away that the red wire brings power to the switch, the black wire powers things like the voltage regulator,and the brown wire/white stripe powers the lighting. The plain brown wire is for the 'park' position and powers just the tail lights. It never gets used because the switch is no longer in Ign. mode when the park switch is activated.

Every person is different, but this color chart is more compatible with the way my brain works than is a wiring diagram.
 
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