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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys. I have been working for over two months now trying to get my 74 CL360 running again. It ran when I purchased it, but not for very long. At the time, the bike would kick start only and backfire in the mid to high range of the RPMs. Over the course of a week, it got to the point where it just wouldn't start at all. The plugs were found to be wet with fuel at the time, but I discovered fuel in the oil as well so started with the carbs and let the spark issue lay for a while.


Removing the carbs led to a path of "discoveries" including a dead, wrong shaped battery, a butchered battery box to fit said battery, a totally unplugged rectifier with one lead broken off, a pretty nasty looking flasher relay, and some degree of corrosion on many terminals in the various connectors the bike has. My positive battery cable was also about 18 inches long, and therefore definitely not stock.


So, I dove in an replaced the rectifier with a new reg/rect combo from Oregonmotorcycles, got it wired up, and deleted the old regulator since it would be redundant to keep it. I got a "new" battery box along with with the proper size gel battery, shortened my 18 inch cable to about 2 inches, installed a new flasher relay and replaced many terminals and connectors with new ones. I also ended up replacing a couple of wires all together because the snip, strip and look approach kept yielding green strands of wire. I have been very carefully reviewing the wiring diagram at the back of my Clymer and taking my time to avoid stupid mistakes.


Anyway, I got the carbs off, rebuilt, and reinstalled and the rest of the bike back together hoping for the best and of course, I'm almost back where I started because I hadn't really done anything to address the absence of spark I was experiencing. Now, I'm no pro at electrical and am still learning much. However, I do work at a Honda car dealership and was able to review a few things with the shop foreman to test and such. Here is what I have found so far:

1. The starter relay/solenoid is not sending power through the red/yellow stripe wire in either ignition position. From what I was told, this wire runs to the starter button at the right control and when it grounds, it energizes the coil so the plunger in the relay will move. Upon testing the relay/solenoid by giving direct + to the red/yellow and direct - to the other wire, I can hear the relay click, but nothing happens after that. Also, before I give direct power to those wires, there is no voltage shown at the starter, but after the click my meter reads about 5 volts. That seems low, but I'm not sure what the reading should be and it seems like even at voltage that low, I should hear something going on with the starter, though it is dead silent.

2. The black/white wire at the kill switch on the right control which sends power to the coils is not reading any voltage either. When I connect the black wire in the same switch (which shows plenty of voltage) to the black/white wire so that it can get power, too, and then I kick start the bike, nothing happens.

3. I took a look at the points and the gap was a little loose. I figured it would be a good time to clean them up and discovered a little dimple-like indentation one of of the contacts of each side breaker. These are cheap, so I will be replacing them anyway.



So, here is what I am thinking now: The starter is probably bad. The right control switch is definitely bad (the off, run, off dial was mangled pretty badly when I got it and upon inspection, it seemed like some of the strands of wire had broken at the various solder points within the switch), and the starter relay/solenoid might be worn or on it's way out since it clicks, but is not sending power through the red/yellow wire.



Do these seem like logical conclusions? I suspect I have a couple of things going on at once so it's not as straight forward as I'd like it to be. Additionally, if the starter is bad, does it make sense to replace with an equally old, but known good unit? I know kicking the bike is more work, but is there any reason that I shouldn't just delete the electric start?


Many thanks to anyone who gives their precious time to read this and offer suggestions. I will be truly grateful for any help I can get!


Logan
 

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Re: CL360 Electric Starter System Questions (Help appreciate

Logan.... There are two possible wiring options for the solenoid, and depend on the R/H switch unit....You'll have to fix that first........Both have a yellow/red wire, and the other wire is either black or green/red... a black wired one (grounding type)...engages when y/r is grounded) the other type (uses a green/red wire) engages when the yellow/red is powered from the headlight feed (headlight goes off/starter recieves the power)at the handlebar switch.....
Regardless...If your start motor is drawing down to 5 V, it is likely bad....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re: CL360 Electric Starter System Questions (Help appreciate

Alright. New update: After my last post here, money got really tight and I couldn't afford to buy any new stuff. Then, I finally sold my other bike and now I have some new parts and questions about them. Here goes:


1. Mikes XS650 coils. I went ahead and got some new ones, but now I need to know if I am supposed to use one condenser (which is what my bike has now with the stock coils), or do I need two condensers? My new points showed up with only one condenser.

2. I also got some new spark plug wires, but they came with some ends already crimped on and it looks like it is stranded wire inside. Is that right? Seems like solid core wouldn't be used, but I am having a real hard time trying to figure out how I am supposed to get the stranded wires connected to my spark plug boots and the XS650 coils.

3. I think I am going to delete my electric starter since it appears to be dead. Would it also be OK to bypass/delete my starter solenoid to remove it from the electrical system as a potential source of failure/problems?


Thanks again for the help!
 
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