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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just finished installing a new clutch cable on my 360-the old one broke at the end of last season. Now I have the dreaded clutch pop. I have found plenty of posts regarding this issue and possible causes but have not found a satisfactory resolution short of buying all new pieces.

I have gone through the cable adjustment several times, disassembled and reassembled the mechanism multiple time and each time it adjusted just so I pull the lever and pop something slips and it goes slack. Readjust and the same thing again. As far as I can tell nothing looks excessively worn. Prior to this I only had this issue a few times before, usually after an adjustment is was better for a while.

Anyone have a resourceful remedy for this issue?
 

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That adjuster on the sprocket cover is very finicky.
Completely disconnect & slacken the cable.
Now, adjust the screw on the cover & lock the nut. If this is to loose you will have the dreaded pop.
Counter clockwise tightens the mechanism, clockwise loosens it.
Tighten till resistance is felt, back off 1/8 to 1/4 turn. (Honda says 1/4)
Reconnect the cable, adjust the slack at the lever & enjoy.

NOTE: this may take more than one try to get the screw adjustment right.
When it works, it works well.
When it don't work, it'll make you pull all your hair out.
 

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Same thing happened to me. Put loads of grease in there so nothing moves when you install. Before you put the cover on just counterclockwise the adjuster a bit to put some compression on it while you install the over. Pull the rod a ways before you put the cover on. Make sure it goes where it should on the rotating assembly. Once you get two screws on the over then you can slack off a small amount. Then adjust clutch as per normal. I learned this after doing this 50 times.

I have other issues now on this damn bike.
 

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Though I loathe to admit it, I find some small pleasure in envisioning men all over the world standing over a 360, as intelligent and perplexed as I, wondering how something so damn simple can be so infuriating. :x

Misery Loves Company, I guess.... :lol:
 

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I struggled with this on my 360 as well. I adjusted that damn thing so many times. What I ended up doing was pulling the long rod that goes from the left side (adjustment) to the right side (clutch basket), cleaning it off and greasing the **** out of it. I also tried to clean the passage that the rod goes through, but I don't think I did much there. Put it all back together, adjusted per manual and I haven't had any problems since.

The clutch pull at the lever seems a little stiff to me but I'm pretty convinced its because my cable is to long and has to many bends, just gotta get new cables.

Hope this helps.
Ben
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the replies. Tried them all multiple times rebuilt the thing again to no avail. Same issue.

The lever feels like its almost pulling too hard. I get about 3/4 pull and then pop. Have to readjust again.

I am at the tearing my hair out stage. It feels like there is something obvious that I am missing. Again I have had this issue before but it was infrequent and I was able to get it back to normal with minimal fiddling. I didn't touch the thing all winter, put a new cable on and wham it does it every time.

Does anyone have a picture of what the arm assembly looks like (the three bearing side); this is the only part that looks like it may be worn. The grooves are more egg shaped than round, but they don't look fresh so it doesn't lend itself to the sudden inoperability.

Cheers
 

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OK, enough of this - most of the time it's just an issue of getting the adjuster mechanism itself to "synch up" with the cable adjuster at the engine.

Turn the adjuster at the handlebar all the way in (no effect) and pretty much forget about it for now - use it only as a final step and thereafter to adjust while riding if needed.

Now the adjuster mechanism itself does what it does, not a lot you can do about it, so your variable is that cable adjuster down by the engine. A 360 in particular will hardly ever work with that cable adjuster at one extreme or another (all the way in or out). Many times when folks put on a new cable, it seems logical to them to screw that lower cable adjuster all the way in - wrongo.
Try to visualize the actual cable-end attachment arm of the adjuster somewhere near horizontal, that's your target.
Work with it, swear at it a lot, and you'll find the point where it all comes together........
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The good news; I've considered and tried everyone's suggestions. The bad; none of it worked.

I have worked this thing over all weekend and still to no avail. My wife is about to kill me and I am beside myself because I have waited all winter to ride this thing. The weather is beautiful and a f-n clutch cable stands in my way.

I have set the actuator horizontal (nothing), worked the adjuster pretty much through its range (nothing), swore at it (a lot), prayed, and have still failed.

The only form of breakthrough that I have had is that I after all this trouble I held up the new cable from bike bandit (motion pro) and it looks to be about 2 inches longer that the one I took off. Should this be an issue, in my mind no just a little bit extra cable as long as the tension is set. (Note I did swap handlebars over the winter from stock to the euro style)

I've gone through the process outlined in Clymer and the Honda manual multiple times. I stare at it for a good four hours worth this weekend. Any creative suggestions. Is there another issue at play here maybe? Am I an idiot?

I feel completely defeated that I might actually have to take it to the local vintage shop. As much as I love what they do, I feel like a dolt that with all the grease under my nails that I have to roll the thing in there to have them adjust a clutch cable.
 

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Is the single 5/16 ball bearing in place?....IF NOT, you have to "over-adjust" to compensate for the missing ball, and the mechanism "pops' when the lever is pulled.....A heavy feeling clutch is an indication the bearing is not present to 'smooth" the action.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ball bearing is in place. In fact I went out and bought a new one just in case the one that was there was the wrong size or worn.

Let me see if I have everything in its right place. Starting from outside
Lock nut, Adjustment screw, ramp piece (flat side against case), captured bearing piece, actuator arm, 5/16 bearing. All put together with tons of grease (I used good bicycle bottom bracket grease, could this make any difference?).
 

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Dang...thats it man..in a nutshell. Only other options I can imagine are:
1. Is the captured bearing piece seating correctly?
2. Is the spring worn?

Can you please post some pictures? That may trigger some ideas.

Have you tinkered with the Clutch Aduster Cam (part #7) ? Perhaps this is not set correctly...
 

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The flat washer is critical, but you didn't mention it.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You are refering to the washer between the lock nut and the case correct? If so this is in place.
 

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Yes... I was grasping at straws...... If all the parts are there and in order, it is a matter of adjustment OR there is something wrong with the cable or actual clutch.
Is the cable "free-length" (difference between inner and outer) the same as the old cable?

This shouldn't be this hard to get adjusted, finicky yes, hard no....
 

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Does the clutch pop when engine is off also?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The cable itself is about 2-3 inches longer than the original. (Longer cable shorter bars could this be trouble)

The engine has not been run since the beginning of winter until tonight where I thought I would try getting some oil flowing through the system. Same problem running or not.

It seems more often than not the clutch doesn't seem to be actuating anything; just like its pushing against a wall very little give and then pop.

Heres a couple of pictures of the only area that looks like it may be worn. Not great, but the second you should be able to see the egg shaped indentations on the arm.

How likely is this to be a larger issue than just a simple adjustment? Is any of this indicative of a bigger clutch problem?
 

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Might be time to look under the right case? You didnt answer Steves question as to whether the inner cables have equal free-length? Hold both cables up by the lever nub and tell us if the sheilding on them is level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
They are not. The cable I got from BikeBandit is longer by about 2-3 inches. However, it is tough to tell because when the cable snapped last fall it was in traffic and I had to quick push it off to the side so I'm not sure how much broke off.
 

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Best bet is to order a new stock length cable and re-fit the stock bars. That should yield a result, if not a conclusion.

I hooked up my new Cycle-re-Cycle (http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/Index_Main_Frame.htm) clutch cable last week with no problems whatsoever.....I haven't started the re-built engine yet, nor filled it with oil, but I recon my cable function is on target. Seems strange that all your problems began with a new cable.
 
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