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Hello all, I have a 1975 cl360 that I am doing a top end rebuild on. I have the head torqued down and am trying to set the cam chain to the cam shaft. I replaced the cam chain with a new one from common motor. I have lined up the horizontal lines with the cylinder head while at LT, made sure the chain is tight at the front and all slack is in the back. The tensioner and guide are in place and I have adjusted the tensioner nut many times and I can hear it move to take up the slack so I know it’s not stuck. The problem I am having is that when I kick the engine over the cam shaft will continue to rotate a few more degrees and start to put too much slack at the front of the engine. After a few kicks the slack in the chain at the front of the engine causes the lower gear to bind and stop the engine from turning. I feel like the chain is too long even though I thought the chain was sold as the correct length (92 links). With the slipper and tensioner installed I am still able to pull 7 or 8 links from the back end above the chain. Has anyone ran into this problem? Do I need to remove a few links from my cam chain to reduce the amount of slack the tensioner needs to take up? My tensioner seems to be in good shape so while I’m willing to replace it if needed I don’t feel like that’s the issue.
 

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Welcome to Honda Twins!
Have you seen the CL-360 cam chain tensioner slipper replacement document and factory recall bulletin? Page 7 has the tensioner adjustment steps. It could be the slipper is not positioned correctly.
The cam chain is a fixed length and should NOT have a master link. Replacement of the cam chain means removal of the cylinder head.
 

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All the 360's use same length chain (and CB/CJ250) Did you compare old and new chains? CB350 chain is longer and needs shortening to use on 360 (I've used Tsubaki CB350/750 'race' chains in 360's) Does motor have centre punch mark at front of engine number? Could also be a miss-match of old and new parts? (pre- and post recall)
 

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Hmm I have also replaced my cam chain with the one from common motor. It is a fixed length chain with a "press-on" master link and you should NOT be removing links. I found it easier to replace with the cylinders off (I was doing a top end rebuild anyway). Is your cam chain tensioner the post-recall version ("scroll" part facing out of the curve of the tensioner rather than inward)? Are you sure that the cam chain tensioner end is sitting in the pocket of the tensioner arm lever? I recall that my chain was somewhat of a tight fit even before resetting the cam chain tension.

Being able to pull 7-8 links by hand after setting tension does not seem right at all. Can you confirm that the cam chain is correctly mating with the crankshaft sprocket?
 

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If chain has been running very loose for a while it wILL damage the pivot so springs can't tension. Either get a bicycle spoke to tap adjuster down or, (correct thing), bottom engine strip to get at it. I'm pretty sure I've posted pictures of the damage,(5~6 yrs ago) it's easy enough to fix pivot but a PITA to get at it
 
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