[jakec]

Hello!

Figured I needed a distraction from my CL 175 K4 basket case, so dad and I went out and got it a friend - CL 350 K5. It's a little rough around the edges, needs a lot of course, but dad's buying all the parts on this one so we're going with all NOS



So I've begun ordering a few things that it needs, such as a new oil drain plug (old one is stripped down a circular shape).



So anyways the most pressing issue that I'm facing (besides the question of when the oil was last changed...?) is the bike wont rev past 4,500 RPM. I was riding it around the neighborhood yesterday and noticed that it tops out around there in every gear. Haven't run it on the stand but that's how it behaves under load. I figured it was a carburetion problem or an air filter / air leakage problem. Then this morning we pulled the old plugs. The left plug was blackened which I understand to indicate a rich condition (as evidenced by the occasional pops coming from those beautiful side pipes). The right plug was pretty white, which I understand to indicate a lean condition. I have no yet been able to look at the air / fuel system.

Is it possible that the revs are being limited by the lean condition on cylinder #2? I will be rebuilding the air filters (lets hope I don't open it up to find that the right side is missing one altogether). And at that time I will also rebuild the carbs.

 

[doode]

What's the compression?
Try a basic tune up - cam chain tension, valve clearance, ignition timing, oil slinger inspection, oil change and carb sync. Also trim the ignition wire. I don't start a new bike without doing those things first.

 

[spirograph]

Dummy question, but I made this mistake early on with my 360. Are you sure the right cylinder is firing?

Once you’ve done Doode’s tune up, I’d check that - I had a similar issue, where the bike wouldn’t top 5k, and eventually found out it was running on one cylinder. Helped me track down the actual (ignition related) issue. Don’t up and grab the exhaust or anything but if you find out the right pipe is cool after a minute with the engine on, that might be your issue.

 

[jakec]

I told my dad to check to see if the right cylinder is firing next time he starts it up (even tho I asked him not to until changing that dirty oil. The bike is with him in another city for now until I go home for christmas. I rode it around town and was able to get about 45mph out of it before it topped out, I doubt it'd do that on one cylinder.

Also the plug looked pretty white / salmon colored, not like it had not been used. Currently my bet is on a completely MIA air filter on the right side OR completely random jets / settings in the carbs. Again I was only able to check look at it for so long and now it is with my dad. When he hands it over to me I am planning to rebuild the starter clutch and give it an oil change along with new gaskets. Then I will bust into the carbs and air filters to see what's wrong there.

The kid said he had installed new points, so it's entirely possible that he did not do a good job setting the timing, although it starts easily and runs well up to about 4k.

edit: dad says he got the stripped drain bolt off and put new oil in and ran it for a minute. he said both pipes were warm.

 

[doode]

Doesn't hurt to check the advance and battery voltage at 3k rpm

 

[jakec]

I asked him to check the spark on the right side and I had planed to check on the points when I go there. what do you look for when you check the advance? I will see if he has a voltage reader.

edit just heard back from dad, he said yes to spark on the right side.. And that he ran it for a couple minutes and the pipe was cold. I told him to grasp the header firmly to be sure... lol

working on a bike vicariously through another person is sort of fun. get to keep my hands clean.

 

[doode]

Remove the points and check the smoothness and spring tension on your spark advance unit. Then tune it up, clip the ignition wire and see if it runs better. If you have a timing light then you can see how its advancing

 

[spirograph]

How'd he check the spark? Not throwing shade on his mechanical abilities; it's not uncommon for plugs to short once they're in the cylinder. I'd throw in new ones, just to be sure - RockAuto has plugs for these bikes for like 1.15 a pop, I buy them in baker's dozens. Reason I ask is that you should at least get partial ignition if you have compression and spark on that cylinder - if it's not the ignition and your timing isn't waaaaaaaaay off, I'd do a quick compression test to make sure you're in the 150+ psi range. I don't think 45 mph is unreasonable with just one tube though - my 360 was doing that on one as well, though it does take a hot sec to get there!

Edit: I lied, they're $1.47 per
http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/ngk,2411,spark+plug,7212

 

[doode]

One other quick thing you can try is to remove the points cover and see if the points were grounding to it and causing the no spark issue.

 

[JamesPal]

Don't run this any more till the oil is changed. Assuming there are not a million miles on this bike, most likely it needs a good tune up. LDR give us this great thread for bringing one of these back. http://www.hondatwins.net/forums/67...n/16105-basic-checklist-new-you-old-bike.html

The best way to set and check the timing is with a strobe light. When you change the oil, leave it about 1/2 quart low, set the bike on the center stand, lean it to the left by placing a small piece of 5/8 plywood under the left center stand leg. Attach the timing light to the left plug wire and set the timing. Then move the timing light to the right plug and adjust the right point gap to get the right side timed. Move the timing light over tot the left plug and rev the bike to 3300 RPM and check the advance. Easy peasy and if the valve are correct and the carbs balanced it should run like a top.