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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I have a questions for the experts.

When I swapped my bars on the '72 CL I removed the locator pins from the controls to make it easier to position the controls where I wanted. I am sorting out all my electrical bugs and I have been able to find that both the starter, and horn buttons aren't working. I know it's the controls cause when I use a wire to ground the circuit in the headlight the starter cranks and the horn honks.

My '73 CL has clip-ons that have aluminum tubes and I don't have locator pins in those controls either. I notched those controls to run the wires externally since the aluminum bars are solid. I don't remember if I had to add a ground for the horn and starter buttons on those or not... but they work.

My question is do the horn and starter buttons ground through the locator pins I removed? I don't have the pins anymore, at least I cant find them... so how is the best way to go about grounding the controls?

Thanks for your help.

- Woody
 

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Sensei
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Woody, Obviously, the switch units must have a contiguous ground to the chassis. When being refurbished, the some units get the locating/grounding pin removed, and are often repainted.....
Without the pin, the units contact the bars where they pinch...Paint there can interfere with grounding....
Then there's the bars.... Some are not just chromed, they have a clearcoat sprayed on to protect the chrome (particularly the Black-chrome ones)...
The bars are clamped in risers: Paint or even wax from polishing can "break" this connection....And, of course, there is the grounding jumper from riser to the top tree (to bypass the rubber cushions) that often has paint/polish wax interfere, or is accidently eliminated.....
Any one or any combination of all those possible "connection breaking" posibilities could be the problem....
Sand, scrape and/or add ground jumper(s) as needed... The switch units must have a good ground.........
I know you realize all this, it just seemed an appropriate time to list/emphasize the possibilities.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Steve. That's pretty much what I figured, so its nice to have some conformation on that.

Do you think I'd be better trying to just let them ground normally by scuffing/sanding? Or do you think I should get a little rollpin or something to replace the pins I pulled out? I didn't touch the risers or the jumper ground, so I'm guessing that my problem is right at the controls themselves... maybe at the riser clamp/bar interface... I'll scuff that up to be sure as well.

- Woody
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Steve,

Thanks again for your reiteration of what all to check.

Before I started to tear into the controls I double check your list... and low and behold I found this (See pic). It took longer to pull the jumper off and bolt it back on then it did to re-solder the ends with new wire and shrinkwrap. Problem solved!

The horn and stater button are alive and kicking. That means that all I have to do on this bike is wait for the new blinker relay to get here and the electrical on this bike is done!

It's getting so close! Can't say I'm too much in a hurry with a heat index of over 105 lately.

- Woody

 
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