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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks, I'm replacing my front brake cable amongst other things on my '68 CL350 and I noticed that I could pull the brake drum assembly in and out almost 3/16" inches. This translated to the same play between the forks on the right side of the axle. Is this normal? I have another wheel from a 73 and it has what looks like 2 spacers on the left side on top of the brake drum assembly whereas mine only has one. Also I can't move the brake on the 73 like mine but it's been laying around for a while.
Here's the left side of the spare wheel, the left side of my wheel and the gap on the right.
 

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No, the gap is not kosher.

As far as I remember, there are no spacers at all on 350 drum brake axle.
But I could be wrong, maybe Mike Nellis can chime in, he has a 350.
We have had a couple of guys experience problems (off-center wheels, etc.) here when they put the axle in backwards.
The nut goes on the right side......
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So I took the wheel off and sure enough I could tighten up the axle bolt and suck the drum in. Is there something that keeps the axle nut tight exept for the fork ends?
 

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solarae said:
So I took the wheel off and sure enough I could tighten up the axle bolt and suck the drum in. Is there something that keeps the axle nut tight exept for the fork ends?

Nope, don't think so......
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ha! That probably had something to do with the nasty wobble I got going over rain grooves. I was ready to blame it on the Cheng Shin "retro" style front tire.
 

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Yup, it's just as you've found. You tighten up the axle then install the whole assembly that is held in place with the fork leg pinch bolts and the bottom clamp. be careful and make sure the brake rod doesn't rub agains the fork leg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
"thicker end"?
They look to be symmetrical to me.

Edy... back at it again
 

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The fork "pinches" definately have different length ends...On some, there is a cast-in or stamped arrow that points forwards......The longer sides go forwards and are tightened first....This should show a slight gap at the rear that is actually "pinched" closed when you tighten the rear nuts..... Failure to do this will allow the clamps to slightly loosen (due to vibration) resulting in problems like yours, or even as bad as the wheel coming off.........make sure you use a flat washer, a lock washer, and nut on each stud, and torque them appropriately....
 

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Steve,
This is true for all models of the 350? The axle clamps should be fully tightened down in the front and then clamped tight on the back bolt instead of evenly front and back?
(sorry, don't mean to jack your thread, solarae, I just realize I may have installed MY wheel incorrectly as well...)
 

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Thrilhou, That is the way I was instructed to do it when I first started working on Hondas..... AFAIK, it applies to all Honda forks with a loose pinch clamp......

It wouldn't take long to loosen the rear nuts, recheck torque on the fronts and retorque the rears (while making sure the clamps are properly oriented).....Safety first!..........
 

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...Perhaps if we discribe the front end of the clamp as "taller" it will make more sense...
The proper clamp orientation and tightening method/sequence have already been detailed..... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright, I went out and looked and sure enough the clamp casting is a little bigger on one end. It's subtle though.
What do you torque them to?
This is what the factory service manual says on the subject.
 

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Torque specs for an 8mm nut/bolt are generally 13 to 18 ft/lbs..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Except they're not 8's. They are 12's.
Just trying to illustrate that the manual is not a help and this seems like a pretty important thing.

Edy
 

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solarae said:
Except they're not 8's. They are 12's.
Just trying to illustrate that the manual is not a help and this seems like a pretty important thing.

Edy
The threads are 8mm - the nut may take a 12 mm wrench.
 
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