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Discussion Starter #1
i finally got the cl running. first start in over 20 years :D

i thought i had the clutch adjusted properly. but now it won't disengage. i've tried to adjust it 25+ times. i can feel the clutch rod pushing, but the clutch just won't disengage. if i adjust for less slack in the cable (well beyond no slack) it just does that popping thing when you pull it too far. i've tried every bit between full slack and popping.

so i guess i'm going to pull the sprocket cover back off to check it out...
do i have to remove the exhaust to do this? (CL: high hung exhaust)

also, do i have to remove the pegs/kickstand to remove the shifter? it seems like i do. :evil:

thanks!
 

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66Sprint
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26,135 Posts
Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

You HAVE to adjust the lift-arm mechanism before you adjust the slack out of cable...If it isnt in the correct "beginning" position, you'll get the "pop" and/or the clutch simply won't work.....Adjusting only the cable is futile in most cases....
 

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Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

Clutch plates stick after sitting, we used to make sure clutch lever is adj close, then get it running and roll it along pop it in first gear hold the clutch in and hit the throttle a few times till it comes loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

thanks all!
@captb: good advice! i'll try what @66sprint said first. what does "adj close" mean?
i'm assuming you have to just leave the clutch engaged and hit the throttle in first gear? (assuming i can start the thing)
or maybe roll down hill and pop it into first kinda like i'm trying to start it? that sounds like not a lot of fun :lol:

@66sprint: what is the proper orientation of the "lift-arm mechanism"? it seemed to only have one proper way when i was in there last fall.
is the lift-arm mechanism the thing the clutch cable attaches to with the spring on it and the three ball bearings? how do i adjust it? i can't find anything in the manual about this...

do i have to remove my exhaust to get in there?

thanks again!
 

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66Sprint
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26,135 Posts
Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

Copied from my previous post on the subject found using the search feature and the term "clutch adjustment"
.....(We need a smiley with crossed arms, tapping his foot....) :roll: ..... :lol: :lol:

Put slack in the cable.... I recommend you "set" the threaded adjuster at the handlebar perch at about 1/2 way in....That way you have some adjustment left in either direction.
Cable bottom adjuster (at case cover): thread it ALL the way in so you have maximum slack inside......
With case cover off engine, VERIFY the #10 ball bearing is in place (grease it in)....
Loosen adjuster locknut on case and screw the slotted bolt FULLY CLOCKWISE until it stops (This is the maximum clearance point, "Arm" should be fully " down" as pulled by the spring).....
Replace cover and snug the Phillips head screws...... Tighten the slotted adjuster COUNTERCLOCKWISE (anti-clockwise) until you feel it start to apply pressure to the clutch (you actually feel the springs push back)... Turn it CLOCKWISE until the pressure JUST releases, Then 1/8 turn CCW, and snug the locknut......
Pull the clutch lever against the grip..... Tighten BOTTOM cable adjuster (out) until the lever JUST touches/closes at the perch.....Lock it in place......
Minor adjustments for desired lever "reach" and release points can now be done at the UPPER (perch) adjuster........

It took me longer to type this than it should take to adjust the clutch.........

Steve
 

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Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

Once you get moving in first gear hold the clutch in and hit the throttle a few times, they usually break loose with no problem. make sure the clutch is adj good enough to where you feel that your pulling and you feel the force of the clutch springs. If you can pull the lever with one finger your not dissengaging the pressure plate. If the engine idles you only need to roll about 4 mph to tap it into first gear and it will idle along.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

just to close out this thread, i finally got the clutch sorted.

first. i had to take the clutch cover off to unstick the plates. had to prise them apart with a screwdriver.
couldn't get it unstuck with any combination of running start into gear, starting in gear, etc. would just always stall, sometimes with hillarious consequences. :lol:

anyway, the other issue was the clutch push-rod was stuck at the "lip" of the push bearing at the other end in the center of the crank case. i guess with experience i'd know to make sure that was all the way in, by playing with it. so effectively my clutch was alway disengaged. got that sorted and now clutch adjusts as i'd expect and i can ride the bike, sorta.

still running like crap after warm up, and it seems to have a charging issue, but not sure. and tail light shorted out.
so... back at it. :D

thanks all for the advice!
 

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At least your making progress, as long as it don't take as long to sort out the problems that it took 40 years to develope, your doing good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks captb!

making progress. it helps that i finally have my OR endorsement, which is a bit of a pain here. and my GF has hers and a bike, so i'm in the garage daily now :lol:

having some issues with idle. probably electrical.
on to the next issue!
 

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Re: cl350 clutch cable/sprocket cover

Copied from my previous post on the subject found using the search feature and the term "clutch adjustment"
.....(We need a smiley with crossed arms, tapping his foot....) :roll: ..... :lol: :lol:

Put slack in the cable.... I recommend you "set" the threaded adjuster at the handlebar perch at about 1/2 way in....That way you have some adjustment left in either direction.
Cable bottom adjuster (at case cover): thread it ALL the way in so you have maximum slack inside......
With case cover off engine, VERIFY the #10 ball bearing is in place (grease it in)....
Loosen adjuster locknut on case and screw the slotted bolt FULLY CLOCKWISE until it stops (This is the maximum clearance point, "Arm" should be fully " down" as pulled by the spring).....
Replace cover and snug the Phillips head screws...... Tighten the slotted adjuster COUNTERCLOCKWISE (anti-clockwise) until you feel it start to apply pressure to the clutch (you actually feel the springs push back)... Turn it CLOCKWISE until the pressure JUST releases, Then 1/8 turn CCW, and snug the locknut......
Pull the clutch lever against the grip..... Tighten BOTTOM cable adjuster (out) until the lever JUST touches/closes at the perch.....Lock it in place......
Minor adjustments for desired lever "reach" and release points can now be done at the UPPER (perch) adjuster........

It took me longer to type this than it should take to adjust the clutch.........

Steve
Hi Sprint, trying to visualize this process in my head while I'm away from the bike. Is the slotted adjuster mentioned above at the perch or case cover?
 
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