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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to remove the alternator rotor from my CL350 engine, and I've gotten the main retaining bolt off, but cannot get the rotor itself off of the crankshaft. The service manual mentions a rotor removal tool that appears to thread into the rotor and then push the rotor off against the nose of the crank. Does anyone know what is the thread size/pitch of the tool?

Thanks a lot!
 

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Sensei
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The 350 rear axle works... It's 16mm JIS threads... DO NOT attempt to use a jawed puller, you can ruin the starter clutch.........
 

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You should also have a cordless impact gun.
I use DeWalt 12 volt and 18 volt impact guns myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'll see if i can find a bolt of that thread size locally for the rotor; I have to ask though, what is the oil filter tool for? I've gotten the centrifugal housing out to clean it up when changing the oil without it.

I've got an impact driver; the type you hit with a hammer, and its been workign well for all the damn phillips-head bolts that love to seize in place. They're definitely getting replaced with allen keys in the near future.
 

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toplessFC3Sman said:
I'll see if i can find a bolt of that thread size locally for the rotor; I have to ask though, what is the oil filter tool for? I've gotten the centrifugal housing out to clean it up when changing the oil without it.
If you got the whole centrifugal housing all the way out without the tool shown then let me give you an "attaboy". I tried and was afraid of buggering up something so I bought one.

How'd you get it off? Did you just us a long screwdriver and a hammer?

P.S. Remember, you can have a hundred "attaboys" but it only takes one "aw ****" to wipe the slate clean. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just pulled out the snap-ring and got it to slide out, unless I'm missing a bit of the step.

I'm sure there are gonna be some "oh shits" in the process of owning this bike... i've already convinced myself that it needs fuel injection and electronic spark control, and for that it needs a much larger alternator. I've got the throttle bodies w/injectors all made up to go on the engine, and will prob start machining the bits necessary for retrofitting the CBR600 F4i rotor onto the engine later this week.
 

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toplessFC3Sman said:
I just pulled out the snap-ring and got it to slide out, unless I'm missing a bit of the step.

You just pulled off the cap - deep inside the housing that remains you should see a big special nut, with a tabbed lock washer holding it in place. That's what the tool is for. It all has to come off if you want to get the clutch housing off and get to the shift linkage or split the cases.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ended up using 66sprint's suggestion of using the rear axle, and after a bit of cajoling and a nice whack with the hammer, it came right off. I don't plan on splitting the cases or tearing any further into the engine at the time tho, it was running well and making good compression. Machining work for retrofitting the new, bigger alternator is going well; the whole project can be seen here:

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515691
 

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That's one hell of an ambitious project you've started... Very interesting as well.. Keep us updated here as much as you can.. ADVrider - :p


GB :mrgreen:
 

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BTW.... An O-ring chain will damage the "lifter arm clevis".... You can use a 530H chain though.........
 

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There's plenty of room for improvement in the stock stator, but it's a (still relatively easy) rewind away.

The stock stator is wound with two separate circuits with two different diameter wires. The individual coils are wound very sloppily, to boot. One circuit is the 'daytime' circuit, the other is the 'nighttime' circuit which is switched in when the lights are turned on.

Improved output can be achieved by stripping the 6 coils and rewinding in one continuous circuit using 0.050" diameter wire. With very careful, snug wrapping, you can get 50% more windings on each coil than stock.

Then, the overall system can be improved by using a simple new silicon diode bridge rectifier vs. the original selenium rectifier, which were never very efficient from the get-go and have deteriorated greatly in the 35 ~ 40 years since...

Have fun!

*edit* D'oh. I just read the full thread on the ADV forum. I guess you've gone beyond the stator rewind already. Well, have fun anyway. K.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yea, even after re-winding, I doubt I could get enough current to power the fuel pump and headlight at once, not to mention brake lights, charging the coils, injectors, and the distant possibility of a heated jacket or gloves. I'm a little bit past the point of no return on the stator cover anyway, and there's not much work left to get the new alternator on there and working.

As for the o-ring chain damaging the "lifter arm clevis"... i'm not sure what that is, but I plan on replacing the sprockets with ones meant for a 530 chain (I didnt see any that'd work with the smaller, lighter 520 chain). Could you clarify a little bit please?

I'll probably start a build thread over here too, when I get a little bit of time.
 

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When you pull the clutch lever, the cable lifts the "lifter arm" , (attached through a clevis.)... A wider chain will strike the clevis shearing it (cable pops out)... preventing you from disengaging.... Stock sprockets ARE 530 sized....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ah, i get what you mean... clearance is really that tight in there? Well, I could save 1/8" with a 520 chain if I machine down the outside surface of the sprockets, that should hopefully make up the difference in width of an o-ring chain.
 

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66Sprint said:
When you pull the clutch lever, the cable lifts the "lifter arm" , (attached through a clevis.)... A wider chain will strike the clevis shearing it (cable pops out)... preventing you from disengaging.... Stock sprockets ARE 530 sized....
I've been running the O ring 530 chain on my '68 CL350 for about 1000 miles now. I haven't had any problems with the clevis but it did rub on the sprocket cover a little and left some marks.

I was NOT aware of the potential interference when I installed it so I've been ensuring the chain tension is kept adjusted. So far so good, but based on your and Bill's caution I don't know if I would recommend it to others who are not prepared to deal with the consequences if it goes wrong.

I had a spare, new, 530 O ring chain (from my Race Bike) that I've earmarked for the 450 but I'll be checking it closely when it's installed. Again, I'm prepared to deal with the consequences if it doesn't work.
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
You'd really risk such a thing on that 450??? :shock:


GB :mrgreen:
Not blindly of course. :)

It will more of a validation. If something rubs or doesn't meet my standard for clearance then obviously I won't use it.
 

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Remember, the lifter moves in towards the sprocket/chain as it moves upwards.....Cable adjustment is as critical as chain adjustment.... :eek:
 
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