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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a CL175 that I've been slowly restoring (not beautifying, but getting to running condition): https://www.hondatwins.net/forums/40-engine-discussion/117870-oil-leaking-clutch-pushrod-seal.html

I have everything back on the bike, and now, going to set ignition timing with a test light, I'm up against something strange.

With (functional) test light attached to "contact breaker," there is no light when I turn the dynamo rotor in any place.

I'm stumped as to where to go next?

Following are some possibly relevant pictures from the system...
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
exposed wire near ignition coil (on upper right side of frame)
IMG_1844.jpg

Edit: I wrapped that section of wire with electrical tape and I still am getting no power to contact points.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It might also be pertinent to mention that I am getting full power to the handlebar switches. All lights work, horn, and starter motor.
 

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1975 CL360
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Can you describe how the test light is attached to the point plate, or better yet, a photo? Was the point gap set to spec before trying to adjust timing? From the photo, the point gap appears to be open when the point arm is off the raised cam lobe. I might be incorrect, but I would think the gap should be open only when the raised lobe is under the point arm.
 

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^^^above is correct (based on the test light wire being attached to ground and the probe touching the terminal on the insulated wire at the points connection), the light should come on when the points open. however, in the picture it looks like the points are just opening on the other lobe, both of which are 180° apart
 

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Set the points closed ,turn on the switch and check with a meter to see if you have power to the points then open the points to see if you loose power to the points. Dont leave the power on too long or you will damage the coil. If you have power then loose it when you open the points go ahead and set the points as per the manual if not then you need to find out why you dont have power to the points.

As above with the points open its like an open circuit .

Bill
 

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Unplug the wire between the points and the condenser/coil lead. Now connect your tester to the positive battery post and connect the other end to the points wire. The light will be on with the points closed and will go off when they open. If the light does not go off, check the wire connection on the points to make sure the insulating washers are in the right spot. When you get that sorted out, connect the test light to ground and the other end to the condenser/coil lead, there should be 12 volts there with the key switch turned on. This is the safest way to set the timing without overheating the coil, and is the best way to isolate any problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all for chiming in!

@ Scramblr, I double checked and the point gap is opening at (generally speaking) correct time.

@ancientdad, Yes

@Bill H, thanks for that, tried it and to no avail. No power at points...

I figured it out after a good nights sleep and looking closely...

The problem was that the exposed wire from the condenser was touching the base plate where it bolts onto the contact points.
I had thought about this when I was reassembling but I think when I was tightening down the tiny nut and bolt, it moved a tiny bit and just touched the backing plate. I readjusted and now I have power when the points are open!
Here is a picture of the connection after readjustment
IMG_1845.JPG
 

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^^^looks like it's time to repair that with a new open spade terminal and clean crimp. good that you found it - now get those points and timing set and make it run! :lol:
 

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Ethano, we are glad you found the short that was preventing power to the coils.
The point gap should be set before trying to adjust the timing, as a change in the gap will change the timing of opening the points and hence the firing of the spark. The maximum point gap reached during a full rotation should be within the specified range. I am not sure what gap is correct for your size motor, but for comparison, my 360 motor should have a gap of between .012 to .016 inches at maximum lift.
 

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If you're connecting the test light to the points with the ignition on (and all the components operating properly), the light will come on when the points are open (the test light becomes the easiest path to ground). When the points close the light will go out (the points become the easiest path to ground).

Alternatively (and some might say preferably) you can leave the ignition off, disconnect the wire at the points, connect the alligator clip on your test light to the positive battery terminal, and hold the test light probe to the terminal on the points. This way the light will come on when the points close and go out when they open. Advantage is that you don't have to power the coil and risk overheating it.
 

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Ethano. Dont feel to bad I had one the spade terminal would short against the plate and I had a heck of a time with it till I put a new one on.
Glad you found it. Some time down the road make up a lamp tester that works from a 9 volt battery then you can test with out going thru the coil.

Bill
 
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