Honda Twins banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The CL 175 that I've been working on (and now riding) has an aftermarket, Emgo "lucas style" taillight. I installed it because the I had to ditch the old fender set up that was on the bike, and I needed something smaller.

The problem now is that the light has burnt out two bulbs since I installed it. It'll work and then at some point it burns the bulb out, maybe when I am hitting high RPM or something because as soon as I went for a ride it was burnt out.

On top of that when it is working (right after installation), the brake light doesn't come on when the switch is pressed. I replaced the rear switch with a new one, and the front one is gone as the new cables you can buy don't come with a switch. THe brake light switch not coming on is unfortunate but mostly I want to have the running light come on so I can be legal and ride at night.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,147 Posts
Probably vibration related. OEM tail lights mount the bulb socket in rubber to suppress vibration, not so on the cheapie aftermarket ones. You could try rubber mounting the tail light and/or rear fender, or use an led type bulb.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That's a good point. The new light does have a rubber piece that goes between it and the fender. But I know that the fender that I've rigged up does vibrate when the rpm's pick up. I will have to see how much the LED option is. Going with an LED wouldn't pose any new electrical problems?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,016 Posts
the front one is gone as the new cables you can buy don't come with a switch
You need the switch / lever perch assembly from a later model. This is drilled to take a normal front brake light switch, as opposed to the switch which is incorporated in the front brake cable. I came across this problem when I replaced the original brake cable with a pattern one on my CB175K4.

I kept the original top of the switch, used the bottom casting from a later model, either a K7 or a CB200. Needed to clean the black paint off it and polish it to match the bare alloy of the K4 switch.

IMHO, a front brake light switch is more important than the rear one, and less trouble, as it doesn't need adjustment, as it sounds like your rear one does.


20171107_092719.jpg

There is not enough metal in the original lever perch for this to be drilled, later part is 'fatter' in that area.
 
  • Like
Reactions: ancientdad

·
Registered
Joined
·
582 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tip. I figured there had to be a workaround for the front brake switch. I am not sure if my new rear switch works or not, it has worked in the past but the last time I tried it it did not work.

I purchased two new bulbs from the hardware store just now (they did not have an LED with the bayonet connection). I will do some testing to try and figure out what's wrong. I'm thinking high rpm with light installed, if that blows the bulb, hit high rpm with the light dangling off the bike.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,016 Posts
My original CB175K6 used to eat rear tail light bulbs, with the stock rear light assembly.

Most likely due to vibration, although UK spec bikes didn't have the voltage regulator that US bikes did, so that might have been part of the problem.

My present CL175K7 didn't blow any bulbs, ( since replaced with LEDs all round, apart from headlight bulb ) but that might be due to the modern combined regulator / rectifier that I have retro fitted.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top