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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some near final images of this project bike. She loves to run.








 

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Flip your ears for the headlight around so your headlight sits lower more in line with the tank and seat. I.E. Switch em to the opposite fork.
 

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Dirtbag said:
Flip your ears for the headlight around so your headlight sits lower more in line with the tank and seat. I.E. Switch em to the opposite fork.
Those headlight ears appear to be straight, not the angled variety..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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Bird76Mojo said:
Dirtbag said:
Flip your ears for the headlight around so your headlight sits lower more in line with the tank and seat. I.E. Switch em to the opposite fork.
Those headlight ears appear to be straight, not the angled variety..


GB :mrgreen:

Agreed. Long day for dirtbag.
 

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It looks good but might be a tad loud.

If you want, you can cut the plastic throttle sleeve shorter to get rid of that large gap between the throttle grip and the switch housing. You can then move the left side closer to the grip as well to keep them even.
 

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Did you get the stacks to stay on and repolished Clay?

Clay brought this little trophy to my house the other day so I could see it in person, it is a pretty cool little bike.
 

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The bike looks great.

Maybe I missed it on another thread, but I'm curious about the carb jetting.

Weren't you picking up some 70s or 72s to try out for the primary main?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Still trying to find the #70s or #72s but it seems that they are impossible to find. These jets were
made buy Honda and just for these 360s. So, the route now is to drill the #68s out to #70 or #72.
Lucky I have two sets of them from another raped carb bank.


As for the grips, Good idea on cutting down the sleeve, but it's these grips that are a bit small and
if I cut the sleeve down then there might be problems later with new and more standard size grips.

Yes, she is a bit loud. But sounds mean and awesome. There is a baffle insert in the end pipe.


Ray- I had to make the stacks a bushed aluminum look. It's all good.
But my issue now is that the Rectifier went bad. Looking at a new Rectifier/Regulator in one unit.
Oregon Motorcycle Parts has them and are very helpful.
:ugeek:
 

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Very Nice bike sir. Street trackers and cafe's and hell even originals are just amazing bikes. Somewhere over the years the Japanese OEM's lost sight of what makes motorcycling great and that is freedom and fun. Now everthing is a cookie cutter crotch rocket or harley wanna be. I'm only 20 years old and many of my friends brag about how fast, loud, and cool their GSXR's or Ninja's are but no matter where we go more people and girls are interested in my 75' CB 550F than their sportbikes. Police even give me the thumbs up when I cruise by! You have a beautiful bike my man.
 

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Greenbrush, what method did you use for polishing your engine? It looks fantastic! I'm at this stage right now on my CB360 and I'm not quite sure how to proceed with the polishing and cleaning...
 

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jarhead297 said:
Greenbrush, what method did you use for polishing your engine? It looks fantastic! I'm at this stage right now on my CB360 and I'm not quite sure how to proceed with the polishing and cleaning...
Strip the clear coat and then it depends on the extent you are willing to go to for a shine.
I use different grades of wet sand paper and then use my buffing wheel with different grades of compound wax.
Here is one stage with wet sanding.

And then on to buffing on the wheel.

Clay, how have you been man?
I am no longer on FB, too intrusive a web site for my tastes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
WOW!!! I have been totally absent from this thread. Remodeling of property and life.
Anyway, It is far too late a response, but for future inquires on the cleaning and "polishing" of my engine......
First off, the motor was out of the frame. Obviously completely degrease it first.
I was opting for the brushed polish look, not the glassy polish shine.
So, first I used Aircraft Stripper that's for aluminum to remove the factory clearcoat. It worked darn well.
Once I was done with that I then used the softest brass brush wheels I could find at the local hardware store that fit on my small portable drill, as well as one to fit and
angle grinder, ALTHOUGH caution on the angle grinder, they spin way too fast and cause too much scratching. I only used it for very difficult areas. The brush wheels
need to be soft enough to get into the fin slots and in other tight corners, also to not cause deep scratches in the soft engine metals. I takes lots of time and getting dirty.
Once the engine has been brushed to satisfaction, I set out with 3M flat pads to get deeper into the fins and other areas. If you can get a hold of some popsicle sticks
to push the pads and work in the inner fin areas it's key. After this you may want to clean with soap and water to remove any dirt, metal or grease hanging around.
Then once the deeper areas are cleaned as well, I start using the same 3M pads with Blue Magic metal polish on them and just working into all the areas. This is the
stuff I used to "polish". In some of the open areas I used the creme on a polish wheel on my drill again, this way I can control the speed of the wheel, too fast and the
creme goes flying. Try small areas and then clean off the dried polish creme. It's simple, just time consuming.
No real big secret, just "elbow grease" and soar fingers.

Good luck everyone.
 
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