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Take it to the chrome shop, they can put it in the tank with the electrical connections reversed and un-plate it. If you just want paint to stick to it there are some self-etching primers on the market that will do the job.
 

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Just sand it with sand paper and then use self etching primer then sand again to smooth it out. Then go over it with a filler primer and then wet sand it til smooth and take care of any remaining imperfections.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just sand it with sand paper and then use self etching primer then sand again to smooth it out. Then go over it with a filler primer and then wet sand it til smooth and take care of any remaining imperfections.
Thanks! I will probably do that rather than take the fenders to the shop. Sounds like a good process.


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Just sand it with sand paper and then use self etching primer then sand again to smooth it out. Then go over it with a filler primer and then wet sand it til smooth and take care of any remaining imperfections.
This is the process I did with mine this past winter except I used an two part epoxy primer instead of self etching. Finish came out great just need to see how it holds up now.
 

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Just a thought but self etching primer is very nasty stuff, make sure to use a good fume mask along with an exhaust fan or do it outdoors.

Bill
 

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There was a post years back on sohc4 that
'the works' toilet cleaner would damage or remove chrome. I tried it earlier this week with a rear fender, it didn't do anything to the chrome but with a little scrubbing it did clean the greasy, dirty, crud (but not the rust) from the underside of the fender pretty well. After letting a puddle of the stuff sit overnight in the flipped fender it did nothing bad. Dumping it out I got some in a cut, it didn't even burn. I'd put the stuff on par with simple green.
 

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I scrub/clean the fender (or whatever), soak it in 50% MSR solution for rust.
This will reveal more rust than you thought, you'll see every little pit.
I scrub the surface with steel wool or a soft grinder wheel, clean with acetone.
Coat of self-etching, then filler primer.
Sand (maybe more than once), and paint.
 

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Last night I found a different 'the works' toilet cleaner, this one contains hydrogen chloride, I also bought a pair of gloves. I'll post back after trying it.
 

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If your going to powder coat instead of paint clean the parts with alcohol instead of acetone. Acetone leaves a film that powder coat doesnt like to well.

Just a thought.

Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If your going to powder coat instead of paint clean the parts with alcohol instead of acetone. Acetone leaves a film that powder coat doesnt like to well.

Just a thought.

Bill
Thanks, but I'm trying to avoid as much external shop work as possible. I will pobably try the self etching primer before spray painting it silver. When thank and side covers are ready I'll apply a 2 comp. finish on all the parts.
 

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Last night I found a different 'the works' toilet cleaner, this one contains hydrogen chloride, I also bought a pair of gloves. I'll post back after trying it.
It didn't do anything to the chrome except clean it, the underside of the fender also came clean quickly without much effort.

Sorry for the late update if anyone was interested.
 

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I did my mud guards by wash with kerosene then water then strong detergent to remove all oil and grease. Then a good rub down with 100 grit wet n dry then coat with rust killer per instructions, in this case leave for 16 hours wipe off with clean cloth, spray pack etch primer then under coat, then spray putty sand with wet n dry 400 grit more undercoat sand with 900 grit repeated till I had a perfect surface and then top coat. All done with spray can auto paint.
I used a Ford color Mercury Silver, followed by clear coat, that was 10 years ago and it is still holding up well.
As with all paint the preparation is vital for a good job.
Good luck!
 
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