[Sonreir]

Hi guys, i have a problem somewhere with my Kohler r/r setup. i have a SL350, so some wires are missing as per most wiring diagrams which refer to CB and CL, but mostly the same. I have used the plug and lead from the rectifier and soldered connectors for the four wires. red/white to the B+ terminal, green to earth with the mounting bolt and the other two to the terminals either end because i read in an early post that it didn’t matter which terminal the AC wires were connected to. After disconnecting the regulator i found the black regulator wire and figured it probably needs to be connected through the ignition to power the stop switch. when i went to connect the battery it sparked, and after about 10 seconds the wires to the r/r became very warm. i disconnected the generator plug and reconnected the battery and it didn’t spark. i have rechecked my wiring and it all looks ok to me. any ideas as to what the problem might be.
cheers, Gary.

The Kohler unit doesn't require a connection to a black wire in the harness, so skip that portion. The leftover black wire (after removing the old regulator) doesn't need to be connected to anything, either.

Double-check that your wires connected to the Kohler (battery and AC) are not in contact with the frame. One of the reasons I dislike the Kohler unit is because of the tendency for this to occur.

If all that looks OK, it might be time for a diode test on the unit. A multimeter will be able to get you the answers you need.

 

[gazzweld]

thanks Sonreir, will check all wires and possibly replace the AC wires between engine plug and r/r unit as the insulation is hard and brittle.
how is the diode test carried out? I am guessing between the B+ and AC terminals?

 

[gazzweld]

replaced all the old wires between engine plug and r/r and decided to delete the old rectifier plug that i was using because the r/r connections are removable anyway, and reduces any possible bad connections. i spliced the yellow and white AC wires together close to the plug, so ended up with two wires direct to the r/r AC connectors, red wire from battery positive to B+ connector, green wire from battery negative to mounting bolt, then to frame. battery still sparked when leads were connected.
disconnected r/r and bench tested with my multi meter and found no resistance between one of the AC and the B+ terminals.
faulty unit out of the box, but i guess that happens with electronic components. waiting now to hear what my options are from the supplier. cheers, Gary.

 

[Tascott21]

New to the 350 twin ownership. Just bought a running 72 cb350. Yes, I am having changing issues and luckily the previous owner bought a new rectifier regulator but never installed it. I put a new battery in but am confused about the RR. It’s a 4 wire only and I was wondering what I have to do other than plug it directly in or if there is somethignelse I need to do. Any help appreciated in advance

 

[Tascott21]

If this is incorrect part or junk please let me know as I am open to suggestions.

 

[ancientdad]

If this is incorrect part or junk please let me know as I am open to suggestions.

Replying to a 9 month old thread is far less likely to get you a proper response than starting your own thread.

First place to start is here -
Critical - READ BEFORE YOUR FIRST POST

 

[frogman79]

To answer the question though, that is a not a combo unit that is just the rectifier.

 

[HenryNorfolk]

I put a battery voltage monitor on my CB350K2. It's a clever device with an LED that changes colour and flash sequence depending on voltage detected. I went for a ride and straight away noticed that the battery was being overcharged. This told me my voltage regulator wasn't working. For £15 on an eBay shop I bought a singe phase combined regulator/regulator and fitted it in place of the original rectifier. (I disconnected the old regulator and discarded it.) The new unit has 4 wires and I attached female spade terminals with insulated sleeves and plugged them into the 4 male spade terminals in the rectifier connector on the wiring harness. Went for a ride again and within a minute the LED was showing a steady green light showing that the battery is being charged nicely. After a few minutes I switched the lights on and continued my ride with headlight and tail lights on, and even when I used flashing indicators as well the LED was steady green showing that the charging system is working as it should.

 

[3fifty]

I am actually looking to upgrade my regulator/rectifier and found one online that looks similar to yours however the website's picture has an additional loose green wire (maybe a ground?). Did yours come with one or was it just the four wires you plug in?

Here is a picture of the one I am talking about.

 

[mike in idaho]

It's a ground wire, it snaps into that white connector block so it meets the green wire from the regulator.

 

[HenryNorfolk]

I haven't seen one bundled with that extra wire before. Mine didn't come with that extra wire. I agree with Mike - it looks like it's intended as an extension to the ground wire from the regulator/rectifier - its use is optional. These are for 'universal fitment' so on some motorcycles you could use that wire to connect the green direct to battery negative. But our Hondas have a ground wire that went to the old rectifier and you can use that.

 

[3fifty]

Thanks for the info guys - just want to make sure I order the correct part!

 

[HenryNorfolk]

The main thing is that it needs to be a rectifier/regulator for single a phase alternator. It will have 4 wires. A ground wire (maybe black or green) which will go to your battery negative (-), an output wire (usually red) to go to your battery positive (+) and two other wires (both yellow, or maybe a pink and a yellow) to connect to your alternator. And it doesn't matter which because both are collecting AC (alternating current) from the alternator