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Discussion Starter #1
in your guys opinions whats the best thing you can do to the charging system to make sure your battery stays charged? and is there anything you guys have done to be able to run with the headlight on? i was thinking about running a 35w hid light? would this help out alot? thanks alot for any help
 

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Thanks for joining/posting.

You need to specify what year/model you want to discuss.

In general, charging and batteries are problematic on these old bikes.
Try the Search function, lots has been posted about this stuff......

To answer your specific question, reducing the current draw (wattage) of any light will help some.
But if your charging system ain't workin' at all, you're throwing money at the wrong place.......
 

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I can't say what your charging system can handle - but you can find out yourself. Connect a voltmeter to your fully charged battery. Turn the key on (to kill the surface charge) and check your voltage. It should be a little over 12 volts. Run the bike with whatever load you anticipate attached to it, high beam headlight on. watch the voltage as you increase motor RPM until the voltage exceeds your previous reading. you'll probably have to be above that RPM a fair amount of the time while riding to maintain a battery charge. The extra drain of the light will mean you won't be charging the battery until you're running at a higher RPM than before, so city riding in slow traffic and idling, with a lot of turn and brake light use can create a problem. Using LED lights for the tail, brake and winkers will reduce your current drain quite a bit, and upping your idle RPM will cause the alternator to supply a higher percentage of the current the machine is using when you're stationary - that is, reduce the rate of battery drain. My familiarity is with older bikes, and most of them depended upon some current from the battery at idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Whoops I know better then to not put what bike lol. It's a 69 350 twin. I'm a Honda tech well a new one only 2 years at a shop but I love old bikes lol. I see the ricks electric high output but am afraid to risk it. My charging system is crap. It won't even charge with just the low beam on. The only lights on the bike are the head tail and meter lights. I'm prob doig away with the e start also just for the hell of it. Basicly I should of just asked what are you guys doing to upgrade the system. Anyone ever retro fit anything? I saw thr guy do the cbr one but I'm not looking to go that crazy. I searched but didn't find any really good answers I thought. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Sensei
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Some of the older models only "added" the extra charging coils in circuit when the HIGH beam was on.... Jumpering the white and yellow alternator wires together makes this "overcharge mode" a full time thing... Essentially, you are just making the same connection the headlight switch unit makes, only permanently.... can be done at the alternator plug area, inside the headlight shell (yellow with white tube wire to white with yellow tag) or at the switch itself (solder in a jumper).... This yields a 50% increase in alternator output......
Other than that, get and use a "battery tender"......Or go for a rewound or aftermarket system............. :D Steve
 

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Using the kick starter, especially cold starting, will help you maintain a reasonable battery charge. The starter is a heavy battery drain and the rate at which the bike's charging system "replaces" that amperage is pretty slow.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Does anyone know a part number for a selaed battery so I can maybe lay it on it's side?? Preferably a yuasa or parts unlimited battery. Again that's for he info I forgot about The charging thing with the high beam on
 

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blucav85 said:
Does anyone know a part number for a selaed battery so I can maybe lay it on it's side?? Preferably a yuasa or parts unlimited battery. Again that's for he info I forgot about The charging thing with the high beam on

This is my sealed battery on it side.

 

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I would love to have found a Deka AGM for my Scrambler but, all I found was the AGM from Amazon that Stu sent me the link for.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MV ... oh_product

You should also invest a Battery Tender too, it will increase battery life to 5 years or more.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks for the info on that battery.

other question now is if im not using the e start you think i can get away with a 7ah battery?
im not running any signals im gonna run a led brake light and meter lights and i may not have a speedo so thats on less light and i plan on get a hid headlight which is less power draw also. so what im thinking is ill be ok with a 7ah battery
 

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Sensei
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I run a 7AH battery on the mini bobber (175), and it has electric start..........
But of course, it draws less to spin the smaller pistons through.....
 

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Your electric start concerns a different parameter or characteristic of the battery - auto guys would call it cold cranking amps or something similar.
While the electric start does draw big-time current, probably 40-50 amps (judging from the wire size), it only does so for a second or two.
So two seconds at (say) 50 amps only equates to 0.3 amp-hours or something. But that doesn't mean a 0.3 amp hour battery will deliver the punch needed to spin a starter.
Compare that with lights on, drawing maybe 4 amps for hours at a time, lots of amp-hours.

So you have to make sure the battery can cover all the operating parameters, both "cranking" amps as well as longer-term steady requirements.

What's probably more important to your use of a "smaller" battery is to make absolutely sure your charging system is up to snuff, so at least the electrical system isn't operating "in the red".
I'm not sure how durable the sealed types are, relative to stock batteries - someone else will have to comment on that.
I do know that a stock battery can only be run dead a couple of times before it's hurt bad.
I've seen way too many guys keep chasing their tails with this stuff, when their real problem was the charging system. If it's ok (the charging system) the battery should be able to keep up with things, assuming you don't have a 500-watt stereo or heated vest hooked up or anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you bring up a good point about the cold cranking amps. but i figure if i get my charging system in check working good and wire it in full charge all the time while running all leds and a hid headlight which draws less power then a halogen to keep running that ill be good with a smaller amp hour battery. the only reason i want the smaller amp hour battery is because of the physical size being smaller and i think i need a sealed right now so that i can lay it on the side but plans might change and it may stand up. and if thats the case ill prob just stick with the stock battery lol
 

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I've read somewhere that the HID systems have a much higher inital draw upon turning on the lights. The ballast supposedly has quite a high spike in voltage draw at first, but then levels out actually drawing less power than a conventional halogen..

Of course this is all hearsay, as I'm no electrical wizard..


GB :mrgreen:
 

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I'm interested in the HID headlight if it draws less current and is brighter than the stock bulb. I aslo would like a picture of how you adapt the connector.


Thanks,
Larry
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It is true that the hid draws a lil more power to fire up the ballast but that's just to get the light on. Once on it draws less then a halogen. I've never tested this but as you said that's what I've been told and by many people.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh yea and the light out put being more then a car with halogens for less draw on the system seems awsome to me and at 35 dollars for a kit that comes with 2 so you can split it with someone is way worth it. Here's a site for quality hid kits ddmtuning.com. They are used by quite a few people I know without problems
 
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