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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all Im new to this forum. I have a 69 SL350, the original engine was trashed...tranny trashed, must have been "pull started" at high speeds for all the damage I found to the original engine. Im currently borrowing a 71 SL350 engine, till I get either my CB350 rebuilt or my hopefully perfect cl350 this weekend.

My problem is this, the charging system wont keep the battery charged! the battery is brand new but I do have non stock ignition coils, 2 off a Yamaha something or another.

My plan is to replace the selenium rectifier with one I just tested which shows to be good, however I dont have a stock voltage regulator to replace it with. I do however have a Sno-Start voltage regulator off a old snowmobile (Sno-Start model number 68-2760 12v DC 75 Watt). My question is how should I wire this thing and will it work?

Wires are as follow on the Sno-Start regulator:
Green- Ground
Yellow- From Alternator (There are 2 yellows...guess I just twist them together?)
Black- TO batter + (this one has a built in 7.5 amp fuse

Is this 75 watt voltage regulator powerful enough for my engine? I also intend to add a halogen headlight and a small stereo system to this bike.

Thanks!
 

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Sensei
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Since we have NO idea what the internal schematic for your intended replacement is, we cannot offer a way to wire it in.....My suggestion would be get an original..... However, the stereo (unless it's a tiny MP3 player, Ipod, whatever) will exceed the alternators charging capabilities.... A Halogen alone takes it to max....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
what exactly is the rated output for the stock stator coils? I thought it was around 225 watts @ 12 volt
 

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Sensei
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The stator output is AC... Not DC, and its about 25 to 80 V (depending on revs and how many of the three pairs of windings are hooked into the circuit at the time)... Once rectified AND regulated, you get 11.5 to 13.7 VDC......Just enough to keep the 12V 12AH battery up to snuff........
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
wow I only got a 5AH battery in it! lol...Guess I need to get a AGM battery to replace this one ecp since Im putting in a CL350 electric start hopfully this weekend, this SL needs a new topend....leaks SOO much oil @ the bottom of the cylinder in the middle where the cam chain is through.

Any advice to get a better output on the stator?
 

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cpc said:
wow I only got a 5AH battery in it! lol...Guess I need to get a AGM battery to replace this one ecp since Im putting in a CL350 electric start hopfully this weekend, this SL needs a new topend....leaks SOO much oil @ the bottom of the cylinder in the middle where the cam chain is through.

Any advice to get a better output on the stator?
You won't get much electric start action with a 5AH battery, for sure.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ummm this presents me a problem anyone know where to get CHEAP 12AH batteries? I can get rid of the battery try and make some mounts...
 

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cpc said:
ummm this presents me a problem anyone know where to get CHEAP 12AH batteries? I can get rid of the battery try and make some mounts...

Go to your local AutoZone or comparable parts place.
About $30 if you bring your old battery, a bit more with no trade in......
You want 12N12A format.
 

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Sensei
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Kirk...There is a reason why some coils are wound CW and others are CCW.... This is so ALL the coils that are momentarily being affected by a N pole are aligned one way, and ALL the ones that are being "swiped" by a S pole ATthe same moment are wound the other way.... This keeps/gives that momentary pulse a continuous (same) directinality, amplifying the output ... If they were all wound the same direction (or both N and S poles swiped two coils with the same wind direction at the same time, they would cancel each other out... The microsecond between "swiping" with N and S poles is why it's AC current.... each full pulse reverses.... Notice that at any time , all the CW winds are affected by the same pole and all the CCW winds are affected by the opposite pole......
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Would it be possible to wind the coils to at least double there stock output, maybe triple? Im willing to give it a go, got bout 4 or 5 extra coils for SL, CB, and CL engines laying about...Ideas anyone? I need better headlight and music...wanna take a 2000 mile trip to visit my parents....4000 miles round trip
 

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Sensei
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IF you were to wind absolutely neatly, you could add some extra turns...But there is a limit (as the size becomes a clearance issue).... More turns of thinner wire will give you more voltage, but less amperage, defeating the purpose.......The Honda engineers did their jobs well, but the subsequent lights-on laws removed the overcharge "cushion" they had provided....
I would add the halogen headlight into the stock circuit.... then run the stereo on a separate battery and recharge it overnight.......
 

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Read my post above. Follow the links and read THOSE posts.

Yes it IS possible to rewind for greater output. No guarantees, though, on actual gains (ie double or triple).

Kirk


*EDIT* - Steve, ya beat me to the punch. The main benefit to rewinding the stator is to eliminate the two circuits Honda designed and wind it all as ONE continuous circuit. Much better output overall from the 'system'.

There is MUCH room for improvement in the winding. You'll find the original winding (for BOTH the circuits - the thin-wire 2-pole circuit and the thick-wire 4-pole circuit) was very sloppy. Obviously a manufacturing cost-control issue. By winding the stator by hand, you'll be able to pack on quite a few more turns per pole than what came stock.

I'm tellin' ya, there are relatively easy gains to be had over the stock-wound stator.
 

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Sensei
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Kirk....I agree (I've done a couple)....But it's more like a 30 to 50% increase, not a 300% jump..... :lol: Steve
 

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Could be...

My buddy rewound a 6-volt stator from a 72 SL125. He completed the same task I've not yet finished. He was able to pack ~70 wraps per pole vs. the stock ~48 per pole. Nearly a 50% increase in windings.

Plus, he eliminated the dual circuitry and wrapped it as a single circuit.

The total, regulated output jumped to ~14 volts at all RPMs while running a 12-volt 50-watt halogen headlight, and conventional incandescent bulbs every where else (not LEDs).

Pretty good gains there, but perhaps more than what you would get from an already 12-volt stock stator.
 

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Sensei
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OK...We are argueing the same point....You CAN double the voltage OR you can double the amperage...Just hard to do BOTH simultaneously.... I got a from 6 to 12 V increase, but only a 30% increase in amps...... Fortunately, that was sufficient for my needs..... (but a LOT of work...PITA)
Now, I cheat.... I put a transformer in circuit, and run 12VAC lighting, and 6VDC ignitions (lots less work).....LOL.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
OK I'm going to try rewinding into a single circuit...Shouldn't be too much of an issue once I am able to get the original windings off. I worked once upon a time @ Cycle Electric Inc. (We made Old School Harley GENERATORS and voltage regulators) I wound field coils, so I got some experience winding magnet wire, and how the process is completed overall. I think I'll just go with the same size magnet wire as Honda does on the large size, and see if I cant get 70+ windings each.

Ideas on easiest way to UNWIND considering the epoxy or urethane coating?
 

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I did it the hard way - grabbed the wire with a pair of pliers and started pulling. The epoxy is very brittle. It cracked and broke apart very easily. Sharp as the dickens, though.

Another fellow heated it up with a torch right at the wire penetration and apparently that softened the epoxy up perfectly to allow easy unwinding (according to him). And obviously, once that first epoxied layer is unwound, the rest was simple.

Kirk
 
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