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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Since the 360's differ from the 350-450 bikes I shot a few quite pictures of mine with the mod in place. The wiring is under the tank and will necessitate its removal.

The YELLOW wire has a jumper on it that you have to remove and either toss or put in your bin for later should you want to return the system to stock.

Before


After


THE JUMPER
 

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Hmmm.....

I thought the yellow and the white were outputs coming from the stator windings, and they got joined when the headlights were switched ON.

It looks like, in your 'after' picture, like you've joined the yellow and white as coming from the headlight area (the left side of your picture), but left the yellow and white disconnected as coming from the stator winding direction (the right side of your picture).

Is this true, or just an optical illusion. Cause it kinda looks like you've made a mistake and not necessarily joined the outputs, nor got those stator outputs correctly going to the rectifier, which of course, is the ultimate goal...

Kirk
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
kirkn said:
Hmmm.....

I thought the yellow and the white were outputs coming from the stator windings, and they got joined when the headlights were switched ON.

It looks like, in your 'after' picture, like you've joined the yellow and white as coming from the headlight area (the left side of your picture), but left the yellow and white disconnected as coming from the stator winding direction (the right side of your picture).

Is this true, or just an optical illusion. Cause it kinda looks like you've made a mistake and not necessarily joined the outputs, nor got those stator outputs correctly going to the rectifier, which of course, is the ultimate goal...

Kirk
On a 360 the wiring for the stator never gets into the head light shell, the wiring for BOTH handle bar switches end up in a bunch under the tank and then either head to the front or in the case of the stator, head back out to the rest of the bike. The mix up can occur if you connect the wires FROM the smaller switch loom, or the two in the after picture in the bottom right.

As a side note the 2 connectors coming from the switch are both male bullet connectors and would require modifying to work.
 

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frogman79 said:
On a 360 the wiring for the stator never gets into the head light shell, the wiring for BOTH handle bar switches end up in a bunch under the tank and then either head to the front or in the case of the stator, head back out to the rest of the bike. The mix up can occur if you connect the wires FROM the smaller switch loom, or the two in the after picture in the bottom right.

As a side note the 2 connectors coming from the switch are both male bullet connectors and would require modifying to work.
If you say so... :D

The stator wires don't head back out to 'the rest of the bike'. The yellow wire heads to the rectifier and to the regulator - nowhere else, that is, it doesn't power any of the other circuits directly.

I'll trust you on your connectors, cause it's hard to tell which bunch is coming from where in your photo. :D

I've done the same mod on my own 360, but I connected the white to the yellow right down near the stator itself, and routed the (combined) output to the new Radio Shack cheapie rectifier I'm using.

Thanks for the stickie!

Kirk
 

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Honda used a 2 stage alternator that only outputs fully when the headlight is switched to high beams. These days, most (if not all) States require burning your headlight any time you are riding on the road and quite often the alternator can't keep the battery fully charged if you run on low beams all the time. By making this mod, you fool the alternator into charging at full capacity even when you don't have the headlamp on high beam. It doesn't hurt anything, it just keeps your battery charged more reliably than without making the change.

That's why this mod.

FMTL
 

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Frankmowthelawn said:
Honda used a 2 stage alternator that only outputs fully when the headlight is switched to high beams. FMTL


Not quite - the 2nd coil is switched in whenever the headlights are turned on, regardless of which beam. That's why there's a limited value to this mod - nowadays, every one rides with lights on full time anyway, so both charging coils are switched in as normal routine. All you really gain is the elimination of one switch connection in the circuit. I guess if one did this mod, and drove around with the lights switched off, one would get the benefit of charging at "lights on" mode even with the lights off. Unfortunately, that's illegal in most (if not all) states now.
 

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Kirk... That would depend on the specific model/year of the bike.... SOME only worked when on high beam... For the ones that worked whenever the headlights are on, you are correct, it's just a redundant connection (that can't hurt)....
 

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Hey, Steve,

I never knew that - I guess I've only looked at wiring diagrams and/or worked on for a handful and all were "on vs. off" not "high vs. low" beams. Yeah, that would definitely be a value-added mod if that extra coil was not being added in on low-beam.

Thanks,

Kirk
 

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So perhaps I missed it but what happens to the two disconnected wires now? Do they just stay disconnected?
 

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FYI, for those with a 1976 CB360, the bike is actually wired this way from the factory. Late model 1975's also.

If you do not have a headlight on off switch (Stock bike of course), that means you have this mod already from Honda directly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I'm honestly thinking the better mod all around for these bikes is just wiring straight out of the stator, tying both the yellow and white together and connecting right to a GOOD regulator/rectifier. No need for all the excess wiring.

WHY in 75 they didn't just do as above in the first place I don't know, they still run that white and yellow MAIN all the way to the switch. They are just always connected.
 

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frogman79 said:
I'm honestly thinking the better mod all around for these bikes is just wiring straight out of the stator, tying both the yellow and white together and connecting right to a GOOD regulator/rectifier. No need for all the excess wiring.

WHY in 75 they didn't just do as above in the first place I don't know, they still run that white and yellow MAIN all the way to the switch. They are just always connected.
I can think of 2 reasons.
1. The US Version had the requirement that the lights be on with the engine. Other countries not. Since they use the same harness, the jumper allowed for using the same harness in a global manner.
2. they probably had a lot harnesses pre-made. Adding the jumper allowed the stock to be used.

On the same note, I wish they went to a slightly higher output alternator, and 3 phase....would of helped....
 
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