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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there a way to change the counter shaft oil seal without pulling the engine or must one split the cases in order to replace it?
 

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As others have mentioned, it is fairly easy. I ended up carefully drilling a small hole in the seal face, inserting a sheet metal screw and yanking it out with vise grips. The problem I had was that when I tapped the new seal in the very sharp edge around the hole tore the rubber off the edge of the seal. I have a new one ordered. Tomorrow I am going to stuff the hole near the bearing with a twisted up rag to keep filings out, then chamfer the hole with a deburring tool to provide a smoother lead in for the seal. The other holes for the shift shaft and the clutch rod were chamfered fine as is. Just something to watch for. On another note, the clutch rod seal overlaps where the top and bottom casting meet. On mine, there is a mismatch of those two castings so the seal sits flush with the top casting but sits in on the bottom casting about a sixteenth of an inch. Looks weird but the seal is in perpendicular to the bore of the hole so all is well.
 

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I second the previous post. I ruined my first seal the same way but was able to get the second one in just fine. Fortunately I had a second one around but it is still not fun ruining one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yup. I promptly ruined the seal this way. Every other seal I've replaced has been fine... but the edges are sharp on the counter sprocket area and if it isn't started perfectly, it seems to rip. I think I will also try beveling the edge just a hair. Great idea.
I wondered if the case being below freezing and the seals being room temp made things difficult as well...

Thanks for the info, guys.
 
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