[NE350]

Guy's, is there any special trick or special tool to get the little clip on? I spent about an hour trying several ways but it just doesn't want to get on there. Since i'm so close to finishing it's driving me INSANE :x

Thanks, Matt

 

[tbpmusic]

What chain are you talking about??

If you mean the drive chain, I use a pair of duck-billed pliers, they're perfect.

 

[NE350]

Sorry. Yes the drive chain. I got the link together, i just can't get the clip on!

 

[jayel]

use the closed end of the clip to make sure it will go into the groove of the link (putting it on one pin at a time as a test) this will tell if the side plate is on the link far enough, there are two type of master link clips one as a very narrow slot on one end this type you lift one side of it as you push the other side up into the link groove then snapping it over the top of the pin and into posistion, the second type has a wider slot at about 45 degree angles it can be squeezed straight on with a pair of pliers .... very important the slot of the clip faces away from the direction of rotation

 

[NE350]

Thanks for the detailed description, I'll give it a shot in the am

Matt

 

[MNellis]

Before I started using an expensive rivet squeezing tool that I have for another project, I used to use some channel lock pliers and a socket. Position the link plate over the pins then place a socket that is small enough to fit between the pins against the plat and use the channel lock pliers to squeeze it until it is on far enough to get the link clip on. Are you using one with a clip or on a press on type?

If you've got the Motion Pro chain breaking tool there is an attachment in there that will probably work as well for installing the link plate.

 

[NE350]

thanks Mike, I'm using a clip type. Depending on how it goes tommorow, I may just replace the chain, I'm not sure how old it is anyway.

Matt

 

[66Sprint]

Matt...The chain and its sprockets are essentially a mechanical unit....If one part is damaged or worn out, it is time to replace all of it... A new chain on "old" sprockets will wear out much faster than normal wear ... The reverse is true too....An old chain will excessively wear new sprockets.....

 

[GBones]

While we're on the subject...I was just about to wonder what the preferred master link is with all you OLD pro's. :lol:

I just picked up a new drive chain and it only came with a clip style master link. I wonder if a riveted master is a superior method of securing the chain?

Any ideas are appreciated! Sorry to hi-jack your thread Matt!

 

[tbpmusic]

While we're on the subject...I was just about to wonder what the preferred master link is with all you OLD pro's. :lol:

I just picked up a new drive chain and it only came with a clip style master link. I wonder if a riveted master is a superior method of securing the chain?

Any ideas are appreciated! Sorry to hi-jack your thread Matt!

IMHO, it doesn't matter much on a 30 hp bike with a 530 chain.

 

[MNellis]

IMHO, it doesn't matter much on a 30 hp bike with a 530 chain.

+1 on that. I ordered an 'O' ring, 530 chain, for my 350 and it came with a press-on master. Definitely overkill but I think that's the only way the 'O' ring style comes anymore.

Actually, if someone is replacing the chain on their 350 I might recommend you go with a non-'O' ring style. There is some clearance issues with the starter cable when using the '0' ring style on my CL350.

 

[66Sprint]

Mike!..... You may want to reconsider... The O-ring chain is enough wider to "cut" into the actuator arm clevis...This is a common attempt at "improvement" that proves disasterous in the long run..... Same story on the 350's and 450's.....Steve

 

[tbpmusic]

Mike!..... You may want to reconsider... The O-ring chain is enough wider to "cut" into the actuator arm clevis...This is a common attempt at "improvement" that proves disasterous in the long run..... Same story on the 350's and 450's.....Steve

Amen to that, Steve - the oring chains cut throught the cable attach point on the adjuster.
That part is NLA, and pretty hard to find......

 

[MNellis]

I'm heading to Lexington tomorrow morning on a business trip but I'll pull the sprocket cover when I get back and see if there is any grinding of the those parts.

Initially, the only rubbing I saw was to the starter cable but I was able to make some adjustments and stop that. Hopefully there are not other problems. I prefer the '0' ring chain and would hate to have to buy a new one.

 

[Bird76Mojo]

Definitely overkill but I think that's the only way the 'O' ring style comes anymore.

RK still sends O-ring chains with a clip type master link. It's beaaaatch to get on too!


GB :mrgreen:

 

[NE350]

As I was attempting to put the clip on again, I noticed that one of the links had come apart, then another. Scrapped that one and am patienlty waiting for the O-ring one from E-Bay to arrive.

Matt

 

[Bird76Mojo]

What??!! I've never heard of this before? Please elaborate if possible. A picture may speak for you?

I might be interested in that chain?

GB :mrgreen:

 

[NE350]

How to explain? The center stand used the chain as it's stopper, i.e.. the chain just rubbed up against the center stand and wore both the center stand and chain. Some of the rivets wore down and thus popped off when handled. That was the reason why I was unable to put the clip back on, there was no, or very little edge to slid the clip onto.

Matt

 

[66Sprint]

Matt....Make a stopper for the centerstand that keeps it away from the chain.....
DO NOT USE AN O-Ring chain on a 350, 360, or 450 Honda!.... see above.....

 

[NE350]

Thanks for the heads up, I had ordered it prior to reading the thread.

Any suggestions on making a stopper, location/material. I'll try to post some pics of what i'm talking about.

Matt