Is there any way to know if this is a stator for a CD175 or a CB175? It came with the bike. I am unsure if it is a 6volt or a 12 volt partial upgrade. It has a 12 volt battery, but all bulbs are 6 volt. I was thinking that maybe they changed the stator out but nothing else???? Maybe they put in wrong battery! There are markings on one side of the stator one spot says 600, and at another place it says 302AH???
CD175 stator or CB175
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You will find that even if it is from a 6v bike it will produce enough output to run 12v. I know because I'm doing it. So it don't really matter which one it's off.
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While on paper the cd175 coil should just put out enough v /amp to charge a 12v battery ( the rec and reg are what really decided output voltage) in reality most people who have done this conversion ( myself included) can't get enough out of the cd stator to keep up with the battery losses.
There are no visual marking to differentiate between the cd and cb/cl stators, the winding may have a different gauge or number of turns ( you'd need to break a couple of stators down to check)
The plugs on all 175 twin's stators are all the same so no help with differentiating parts there unless you put a cb200 stator in ( it has a different neutral switch wich is soldered in)
You can fit any stator up to a cb360 into cd175 cases( but after the cb200 you need to drill out the Mount holes and add threaded inserts into 3 of the 6 and add your own timing maker)
You don't really need to update the starter solenoid as it's on for such a short amount of time it shouldn't burn out
Same for the 6v starter motor.
But you forgot to add 12v coil to you list of parts
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Some of my experience when converting my CD175 to 12v may be of help.
Firstly I was lucky, as I found the output from the coil adequate without any wiring alteration. However it does sound as if some old machines are a bit low on output though, possibly due to weakening rotor magnets. It is also possible to permanently link in the extra coils that come into play when the lights are switched on if need be. Someone will remind us which wires they are I'm sure.
Nearly two years on I find a very cheap rectifier/regulator from China to be doing a good job.
If you don't want to change the ignition coil, putting a 2 ohm 20W resistor in series with it will keep the current the same.
You then have the option of by-passing this with a little relay when the starter is pushed. Full battery voltage on the coil while the starter motor is dragging it down makes for instant starting.
I felt the horn sounded a little distressed when receiving 12 volts so I found some thin insulated wire in the junk box, wound some on a former until by trial and error it dropped to 7 volts. This gave a pleasing loud note.
Firstly I was lucky, as I found the output from the coil adequate without any wiring alteration. However it does sound as if some old machines are a bit low on output though, possibly due to weakening rotor magnets. It is also possible to permanently link in the extra coils that come into play when the lights are switched on if need be. Someone will remind us which wires they are I'm sure.
Nearly two years on I find a very cheap rectifier/regulator from China to be doing a good job.
If you don't want to change the ignition coil, putting a 2 ohm 20W resistor in series with it will keep the current the same.
You then have the option of by-passing this with a little relay when the starter is pushed. Full battery voltage on the coil while the starter motor is dragging it down makes for instant starting.
I felt the horn sounded a little distressed when receiving 12 volts so I found some thin insulated wire in the junk box, wound some on a former until by trial and error it dropped to 7 volts. This gave a pleasing loud note.
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