[Igottago]

I picked up a 67 cd175 last year. The engine was moderately taken apart. I got it all back together and had it running a little for a few mins. Finally checked the compression and it was very low so I had the head rebuilt and put on new rings and just got it back together again. I also replaced the coil and the other thing that's in the frame near the coil (that I can't think of the name right now) now my questions: when I go to set the timing the test light never goes out, what did I connect incorrectly. And, I cannot get my neutral light to come on. I checked the connection at the switch in the engine and in the headlight house. And, part 2 of that question: when I operate the clutch lever and it moves the adjuster mechanism, should the shaft that the adjuster sits on also move. If not what operates the clutch to allow shifting?
Thank you all for being out there.

 

[66Sprint]

How (to where) did you connect the "cheater" timing light?......

There's a loose #10 (5/16") ball in the adjuster/lifter mechanism....Is it still in place?...... IF NOT, the pushrod won't move (correctly)....

 

[Igottago]

How (to where) did you connect the "cheater" timing light?......

There's a loose #10 (5/16") ball in the adjuster/lifter mechanism....Is it still in place?...... IF NOT, the pushrod won't move (correctly)....

Thank you for the ball bearing note. I'm sure that's the problem because there is about that much slop in the rod. I attached the timing light to the end of the wire coming in and to ground. I can take a photo tomorrow afternoon if that is not properly describing.

 

[66Sprint]

If "the end of the wire coming in" is still attached to the points, they are not closing electrically, and possibly not mechanically either...Just because the point contacts appear to touch does not mean they connect electrically......Try touching across the point contacts with a screwdriver tip and see if the light goes out.....

 

[Igottago]

Thank you, I'll try tomorrow

 

[Simo]

If not then it might be grounding where the wire from the condenser meets the points

 

[Igottago]

Thanks for the help. Putting a screwdriver across up out the light. Also squeezing them tight together. I put in the old points and everything is normal. I'll buy a new set of points. And the clutch rod moves now, but still does not activate the clutch. I'm going to see about replacing the clutch. As far as I know it's never been changed. The bike was last licensed in 1977 and it may be the original clutch.
Thanks again.

 

[dohcmike]

Thanks for the help. Putting a screwdriver across up out the light. Also squeezing them tight together. I put in the old points and everything is normal. I'll buy a new set of points. And the clutch rod moves now, but still does not activate the clutch. I'm going to see about replacing the clutch. As far as I know it's never been changed. The bike was last licensed in 1977 and it may be the original clutch.
Thanks again.

When the bike hasn,t run for a long time the plates are going to stick together very firmly and won,t operate as they should be...
I have three engines and opened them all, clutches looked terrible
Completely rusted metal plates and worn friction disks, it,s a rather high revving engine!
Clutch should always be checked out after long time of no using.....