[[email protected]]

Hi all,
I’ve been taking the engine apart on a CD175 today in an attempt to check all the bits look okay.
Whilst trying to loosen the cam chain tensioner bolt I managed to shear it off half way ?.
I haven’t attempted to get the rest of the bolt out yet but I’ll probably try drilling through it and using a reverse thread bolt removal tool.
My question though, is what makes this bolt different to any standard threaded bolt? I’ve tried to find a replacement and only found one on eBay for about £17!
Is there anything wrong with using a standard bolt of the correct size and thread? Would probably only be £3 from b&q then!
Cheers,
Greg

 

[66Sprint]

Only 2 Euro from CMSNL......

 

[ancientdad]

here's a picture of it to give you an idea, it has an o-ring groove to seal it from leaking oil

https://images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/honda-cd175-a5-england-cam-chain-tensioner_bigma000176e05_6c68.gif

 

[Simo]

 

[[email protected]]

It says 8 euro for the bolt and 6 for the o ring on that site.
Where did you find it for 2?

Didn’t realise it had a slot for an o-ring, doesn’t look like it does in the picture.

Thanks,
Greg

 

[ancientdad]

Didn’t realise it had a slot for an o-ring, doesn’t look like it does in the picture.

that's why I posted the picture link, so you could see the design and the reasoning for not using a standard bolt - it has both the o-ring and a sealing washer under the nut IIRC. oil is directly behind it in the cam chain tunnel between the cylinders and it would leak constantly when running if it didn't have the o-ring and washer

 

[mike in idaho]

You could maybe try a standard bolt in that spot and put a fiber or copper washer under the locknut for sealing purposes. It would cost almost nothing to see if it worked.

 

[[email protected]]

Okay update... the remaining half of the snapped chain tensioner bolt is not coming out the cylinder block ?
I’ve tried drilling into it then using the reverse thread bolt remover, heating the block with a blowtorch, using an impact driver on it and it is not budging and I feel I’m just damaging the block every time I try.
My last resort I think is to drill out the hole to a larger diameter, re-tap a thread into it and use a larger bolt.
It serves no purpose other than keeping the chain tensioner bolt in place doesn’t it?
Perhaps I could machine a standard bolt to have a threadless section like the original one to fit a larger sized o-ring?
What are people’s thoughts?
Cheers,
Greg

 

[Simo]

Yes you should easily be able to make a M8 version of the picture I posted or fit a thread repair insert if you want to keep it M6

 

[Simo]

Yes you should easily be able to make a M8 version of the picture I posted or fit a thread repair insert if you want to keep it M6

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks Simo,

Will be giving this a go over the next few weekends.
I think going up a size is a better idea to avoid having additional leek paths under and around the helicoil insert.