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Discussion Starter #1
What I've done/changed

New:

Right hand control
Solenoid
Fuses
Battery (charged to 12.7V)

Tested:

Jumped the starter motor with cables and a charged battery. Everything worked fine

What am I missing here? If i am missing it, where do i specifically check/wire colors/change and replace
 

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You post is a little unclear. Exactly what is the problem?
 

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Bad solenoid?

Did you test your solenoid for

1) click sound when connected to power
2) ones clicks you get a completed circuit

Edit: or bad battery. Test it under load. Press the start button and measure the voltage. It's bad if your voltage drops like a rock
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Bad solenoid?

Did you test your solenoid for

1) click sound when connected to power
2) ones clicks you get a completed circuit

Edit: or bad battery. Test it under load. Press the start button and measure the voltage. It's bad if your voltage drops like a rock
I actually replaced the old solenoid with a brand new one. Went by the general rule that if the solenoid is old and not working replace it and if it's old but working....replace it
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Battery. Hook up your multimeter and push the button and report the voltage before and during
12.6 volts before i push the button. I push it and it jumps up close to 13 volts. It's a new battery and when i use it to jump the starter motor directly it works
 

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Odd. Does the solenoid click? Can you post a photo of your battery/solenoid hook up?
Lights come on? Horn works? Turn signals and brake light?
 

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There should be a black wire and a yellow with red stripe attached to the selenoid. The black wire has 12v to it when the key is in the run position. The yellow/red wire runs up to the start button. When the button is pushed, the yellow/red is grounded. That will latch the secondary side of the selinoid and allow power to flow through the large cables to the starter motor.
Note: the positive side of the starter motor flows through the selinoid. The negative side of the circuit flows through the grounds. The ground on the negative battery cable is very important. There should also be a green wire connected to the negative side of the battery.
This is the wiring diagram for a 73 CB450. It is about the same.
CL450 K6 wire diagram.jpg
 

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The 450 diagram does NOT apply at all...(at least where the start switch/solenoid/start motor circuit is involved)...
The battery Voltage jumps when pushing the starter button because the headlight goes out.....
But it sounds like that power is not getting TO the solenoid (or completely THROUGH the solenoid's ground leg if it gets TO the solenoid itself)...

Unplug the Yellow/red wire at/near the solenoid ....
One meter probe to the MAIN HARNESS side of that unplugged connection, other probe to battery negative or a good ground, meter set @20 VDC
You should read 12+ V on the meter when the start button is pushed in and ignition key is on.....
IF you have that voltage, the solenoid itself or the wiring onward to ground is likely the problem, and we'll test it and its ground-path wiring....
(This bike uses an "AND/OR" path involving a diode, the neutral light switch, and a clutch safety switch at the minimum, not to mention all the wiring in between).....
If NO Voltage, we'll have to back-track that yellow/red wire and find the point where the power is lost....

IF you prefer, I will guide the testing during a phone call.......540-525-5199..... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The 450 diagram does NOT apply at all...(at least where the start switch/solenoid/start motor circuit is involved)...
The battery Voltage jumps when pushing the starter button because the headlight goes out.....
But it sounds like that power is not getting TO the solenoid (or completely THROUGH the solenoid's ground leg if it gets TO the solenoid itself)...

Unplug the Yellow/red wire at/near the solenoid ....
One meter probe to the MAIN HARNESS side of that unplugged connection, other probe to battery negative or a good ground, meter set @20 VDC
You should read 12+ V on the meter when the start button is pushed in and ignition key is on.....
IF you have that voltage, the solenoid itself or the wiring onward to ground is likely the problem, and we'll test it and its ground-path wiring....
(This bike uses an "AND/OR" path involving a diode, the neutral light switch, and a clutch safety switch at the minimum, not to mention all the wiring in between).....
If NO Voltage, we'll have to back-track that yellow/red wire and find the point where the power is lost....

IF you prefer, I will guide the testing during a phone call.......540-525-5199..... Steve
Thanks Steve. I'm busy today but I'll probably call tomorrow.
 
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