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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok. just finished my 1975 CB500T. A few things struck me so I wanted to share them here.

Wheel bearings. I did front and rear. on reassembling the rear, i staked the retainer with a punch and a a decent rap. the edge of the surrounding aluminum is thin. I shouldnt have staked it...I chipped the rim of the surrounding area slightly. I suggest no stake. maybe a little thread lock instead? Dont know if anyone had this happen to them.

Petcock. lol. I was really stumped there for a while. The filter tower sticks up inside the hole into the tank and is not meant to turn or spin in there. instead the nut which holds the petcock to the tank has two opposing threads. you start the top (threading to tank), at the same time you start the bottom (threading on to the petcock valve). lol. i was stumped for a while.

Rear brake light. for the life of me I could not get the rear brake light to work. checked switches, checked bulb, checked grounds and many connections. finally found two loose connections up underneath the tailight shroud. thats the sheet metal (u-shaped) between the top of the fender and the red tail light. Look under there for loose connections. several bullet connectors there.

Put a common electrical reg/rectifier on. I simply removed battery box and took the old regulator off the lower side, then I used a dremel and cut the bottom bolt off (that the regulator mounted on), then mounted the new RR on the top bolt. used threadlock. I ran the black wire up the the pos term on battery. plugged the four plug into the old harness position where the little old rectifier had plugged. Easy.

The chrome on the CB500Ts isn't great. 1975 wasn't a great year for build quality anywhere in the world ! But I got lots of things cleaned up by soaking them for days in evaporust. that stuff works. dont doubt it.

The speedo and tach clocks had multiple issues. they have a rubber ring seat which falls apart, they have a chrome back that rusts, and the trip odometer, at least on the 1975, has a reset knob which is held on from the back of the gauage with a teeny tiny little screw up inside the knob. what genius thought of that??? I bought several junk clock sets until I could scrounge up enough nice parts (including that tiny screw) to make a nice set. BTW, the 1975 gauges had a brown face. the 1976 had a green face.

The carbs on this thing are the easiest I have done. Do the 1981 CB750C someday. Makes you want to kill things. But always hold the bowl up and fill it with fluid to see if overflow tubes leak (cracked) before you reassemble. I set the fuel mix 1-3/4 out and they work nice.

Mufflers. Well. i hate the crossover box. that just makes install and de-install a bit tough. You need four hands. So get a helper. leave clamps loose on center box so you can jiggle both headers into position and start the collar nuts. Leave the center box for last to tighten those clamps. The mufflers on this bike are thick and well made so they last well...but...the mufflers each have a tiny little thin collar on the front, that slips onto the end of the header pipe. That damn flange is so thin, orbital welded onto that big heavy muffler, that they are notorious for cracking off. If you go on ebay looking for a cb500t muffler, you'll notice most of those mufflers are missing the thin round collar section on the front. If you are working on one for the first time, be VERY carefull not to snap yours off. Never pull the rear mount bolt (rear footpeg bolt) out and leave the rear of the muffler hanging off the header pipe...it WILL snap. have someone carefully support it until you have slowly and gently pull/twist it off the header.

On these old hondas, there always seems to be grounding issues. One trick I always use and get good results on, is to make a nice grounding wire with a couple of ring terminals on the end. Get inside the headlight bucket and put a ring terminal on a headlight side bolt, where the green ground wires are. then run the wire out the back of the light bucket, up to the bottom of the speedometer bracket bolt...remove that nut and put the other ring terminal on that bolt. That is very helpful for electrical gremlins.

Never ever change jets, needles, float needles/seats and floats and all that stuff. The chances are high that they are NOT really drop in replacements. Clean those old needles and jets in carb cleaner. let them sit a few days. rinse nice, and run wire through the holes. These dont need to be replaced. Just clean them. I always go on honda OEM sites or partzilla and just order orings and gaskets. unsually the gaskets can be reused if you are careful...sometimes you may have to runa razor under them, but they can be reused. But buy new OEM orings. Pay careful attention to setting float height. spend real time there and get them dialed in perfect. Some floats cannot be adjusted, and if you changed the float needle or seat, it may move your float height to a bad position, making it run lean or too rich. Moral of the story...Do yourself a favor and keep using all the original pieces. Just get new Orings.

Spend the time to really dial in those valve gaps. The CB500T is a tricky gap to set. Took me a long time to feel that I had them nailed down. Bike runs very smooth and quiet now.

If I think of other little CB500T oddities, I will add them here. Anyhow, hope this helps someone.
 

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Good job. Although you should have taken the opportunity to replace the rectifier and regulator with a modern all in one unit. Doing so will make a world of difference to your bike's charging capability.
 

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Lol 76 he did...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk

I see that now LOL

I misread it at first and thought he used stock rect and regulator "Put a common electrical reg/rectifier on..."


Now "Put a Common's reg/rectifier" would have a made a difference for me LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I love how the bike runs. pulls to redline. idles 1200 very nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
lots of sweat in that bike. she was a mess that probably hadnt run in ten years. it runs amazing now. fire up at a touch and runs to redline. it is a sweet running bike and it looks great. lots of time spent getting the details correct. i love fixing up these old bikes. thanks for the note on the m2 thread.
 
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