[mca2]

I'm rebuilding an early k1 already partially restored by the the previous owner. The kickstand is giving some issues. The main problem seems to be the totally worn bracket. For illustrational purposes I put the pin in wrong way round. Is this a common problem? Any suggestions how to fix this?

Second point, the pin seems to be somewhat short as the washer and cotter pin do not really fit once everything is mounted.

 

[JamesPal]

mca2, is this the center stand and not the side stand? Are we looking at the left side clamp from the right side of the bike? The orientation is hard to tell from the picture. It is not uncommon for the pinch bolt to be over torqued and the bracket has been stretched causing the hole to be elongated. If this has happened you will be looking at some kind of repair, either welding or making a bushing.
The CL has different foot pegs and brake pedals than the CB. The brake pedal pivot tube and the center stand pivot pin are longer on the CL. If you have the correct parts, then I would suspect the bracket is deformed in addition to being stretched. Honda used very soft steel for these parts. You should be able to reform the brackets to the correct position. If it was my bike, I would try to bush the hole and make it as good as possible. If you are trying do a perfect restoration, the welding would be appropriate. This area of the bike is susceptible to corrosion and most owners neglected maintenance in this area.

Hers is the CMSNL websites for the CB and CL center Stands:
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cb450k1-1968-usa_model449/partslist/F++17.html#results
https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-cl450-scrambler-1968-k0-usa_model553/partslist/F++24.html#results

 

[mca2]

Thanks for your reply. It’s a CB450k1 and it’s showing the center stand bracket hole from the right hand side. I inserted the pin from the left side (wrong side) to illustrate the deformed hole.

It won’t be a prefect restoration, but it will come close to that. But as the frame is already coated, I think I’ll try some bushes. That will be some very narrow bushes though...

Do you know the correct length of the pin? The overall length of the pin a have here is 169mm, is that a CB or CL pin?

 

[JamesPal]

The CL pin is about 20mm longer than the CB. I will not have access to my K5 till next weekend. I can try to measure it by then. You might be OK to just leave the bracket hole as is. It may close up some when the pinch bolt is closed. Use plenty of grease on the center stand and brake pedal. I'm sure the brackets can be pulled closer together to make it work.

 

[mca2]

I tightened the pinch bolts but it's not giving the result hoped for. I also installed the brake pedal and center stand and the latter can be tilted quite a lot. It will touch the tire. I'm afraid I will need to figure out some bushing

 

[76TWIN]

I would vote for adding some bushing as well.

 

[JamesPal]

What you need will be a standard shoulder busing with flange. The ID will need to match the OD of the shaft and then file to round out the hole in the bike's frame. The hole will need to match the OD of the bushing. Install the bushing on the outside of the flange on the frame. The bushing will need to be shortened to match the thickness of the flange on the bike's frame. You will need to shorten the pivot pipe on the brake pedal the amount of the thickness of the bushing's shoulder flange.
How much too short is the shaft? Assemble the shaft into the center stand, brake pedal and washer. The should be enough room left to clear the two frame flanges. Also, when you fit the center stand between the flanges, there should be very little clearance, almost a snug fit.
This web page shows some examples of flanged shoulder bushings. They will need to be trimmed to length. It would be very helpful to know someone with a lathe. These would be easy to make. I think the best repair would be to make a bushing from steel that s the ID of the shaft and the length the same as the thickness of the flange. Then tack weld the bushing into the flange, trim the bushing to match the thickness of the pinch bolt. then grind the flange smooth.
Has your frame been powder coated?

Metric Flanged Bushings - Cast Bronze

 

[mca2]

Thanks for all the advice. I will try to get some bushings. I think I will find someone with a lathe to tailor make these. I only need a very thin flange (also to reduce to amount of adapting other parts) and most likely also some not standard outer diameter.

Or maybe it is a good moment to buy one myself

 

[540nova]

Like having a welder, having your own lathe opens up a world of possibilities.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

 

[WintrSol]

I wonder if there are any of those muffler-to-header reducer bushings that would fit? I just threw out a set that came with my new mufflers, or I could measure them.

 

[JamesPal]

Thanks for all the advice. I will try to get some bushings. I think I will find someone with a lathe to tailor make these. I only need a very thin flange (also to reduce to amount of adapting other parts) and most likely also some not standard outer diameter.

Or maybe it is a good moment to buy one myself

It would be best if the bushing was welded to the frame. I expect you will be doing this with typical Dutch precision

 

[mca2]

I considered a lathe or a welding machine, but the first doesn't fit in my already overcrowded garage and the second would imply recoating the frame. As such I made a ˜5mm ring from a standard 22mm tube, cut the ring open and that did the job. But then I found out, a large portion of the play comes from the kickstand itself. But ok, it doesn't move around that bad, that it would rub against the tire.

I must admit, it's a somewhat complicated construction with the brake pedal, reaction arm, kickstand and brake light switch. How on earth does one fir the spring on the brake pedal and the switch? (assuming one has such a spring)