[[email protected]]

Would over torquing the pressure plate bolts cause the clutch to not fully disengage?

 

[66Sprint]

No, you can only tighten the bolts down to where the washer is sitting flush atop the spring guide column..... Over-torquing COULD cause sheared bolts or columns.....
The usual error in reassembly is the inner basket splining is not correctly aligned with the matching splining on the inner side of the pressure plate, causing the clutch to fail to engage......
Disengaged is a "neutral condition" when the engine does NOT drive the countershaft.....Engaged allows you to be propelled forwards......

 

[WintrSol]

The other possible error in assembly is putting the odd steel plate in backwards, or not first in the basket.

 

[[email protected]]

Right, When I pull in the clutch the wheel does not free wheel. I went through all of the methods of clutch adjustment and still no good. If I have clutch plates stuck together would that do it?

 

[66Sprint]

Yes, if they are stuck with dried oil it won't release....However, remember that you are still spinning the transmission gears regardless of clutch engagement or not, so there will be SOME drag.....

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks. I think Ill put it in 1st with the clutch pulled in and try rocking it back and forth. This thing has been sitting for a lot of years and I really don't want to pull the case off again.

 

[pattyandrick]

Put in on the center stand. Run it in gear pull the clutch and hit the brake. Done this many times to free a stuck clutch

Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks that worked great. However was still having major shifting issues in the upper gears. So I put it in a small one man old school shop and a few days later he called and told me all fixed.
Turns out the clutch cable is to long and was not run right ,so it had a slight kink in it. Now all that's left is to balance the carbs and get it to idle.

 

[doode]

Omg, thanks for the update! That dude did awesome detective work!

 

[[email protected]]

I tore the carbs apart, cleaned them in an ultrasonic cleaner put in new jets, made sure the floats were adjusted and did a bench balance. Put them back on and made sure they both opened and closed at the same time. Still the same issue. I can get it to idle and purr like a kitten at 11-1200. Then when I take it to about 6K or 7k and back off to idle it slowly goes back down to about 1200 then up to 3K and stays there. What the heck is that all about? Both sides run great. Any ideas?

 

[66Sprint]

Advance unit problem is likely....... Springs too loose (stretched) will allow it to idle initially.... Then, when you rev it the flyweights go out as they should.....
When you back-off the throttle, the springs (now stretched to where they have some tension, start to pull the flyweights back down/in..... inertia allows them to fully close momentarily, but then the rotation of the engine causes the flyweights to open back up to where the springs just apply some pressure (apparently about 3K)... Remember, the needle in the tach is NOT direct drive, it is magnetically driven and shutting the throttle can cause it to read lower than actual engine speed, whereas adjusting the carbs is a slower, slighter variance process, and more accurate (theoretically).....

Plus, IF you used the jets from a rebuild "kit" the sizes may be wrong or different between the carbs, causing a lack of sync...... That too can cause the rev speed variances......

 

[[email protected]]

Thank's for the info. I made sure the jet numbers were the same. Forgive me for my ignorance but what is the advance unit and where is it?

 

[66Sprint]

Thank's for the info. I made sure the jet numbers were the same. Forgive me for my ignorance but what is the advance unit and where is it?

That's what we are trying to say...Just because they have the same numbers does NOT mean they are that EXACT sizing or even accurately sized when discussing aftermarket parts.... THIS is why so many recommendations to clean and re-use the ORIGINAL brass (or replace with Honda supplied jets)......

The advance unit is located behind the points plate and contains the breaker cam that both opens the points and allows them to close....They are somewhat expensive to replace......
Perhaps a phone call is warranted......

 

[[email protected]]

Thanks for the help. I got the carb rebuild kit from a Honda dealer. I was having the same idle issue before I did the cleaning and rebuild. I'm going to check out the advance unit today.