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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Re-spoked and trued wheels. Front and rear were balanced at cycle gear. I rebuilt the front forks and put what I thought was the correct amount of fork oil in them. Dual disc front conversion.
At low speeds I get a pretty large oscillation (bouncing up and down) in my front end. When I get up to about 20-25 mph it goes away. Could it be that my front forks are low on fluid? Bad balance job?
 

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tire pressure, tire tread design, loose fork bearings
 

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For possibilities, add...Bad wheel bearings, improperly torqued axle, axle caps on backwards (tight side goes forward, gap at rear), fork fluid too low, or unequal amounts in forks.....Were wheels trued to less than .002" side to side and up and down?.... Were wheels/tires balanced with rotors in place?.... ANY caliper "drag"?.....
Were ALL fork bolts torqued, or just tightened ?.... Is the steering neck Plumb?....Etc, etc.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Combo of fork caps and tire pressure. Thanks guys. All better.
 

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Here's another thing to check. A front tire with the bead seated off center will do that also.
I had one like that on my 360, it bounced like crazy at around 35mph and seemed smooth at freeway speeds.
The little line around the bead should be an equal distance from the rim all the way around on both sides, if not, deflate the tire, lube the bead & inflate to about 70 psi for a few min. That should reseat it. If not, try another tire.

Be careful doing this, an exploding tire is a nasty thing to be near!! :eek:
 

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70 psi? :eek:

Aren't you worried about structural damage to the tire from that much pressure? :?:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'll check that too. Problem has gone away but might as well look. Yeah, I used to work for a tire company and seem to remember a couple guys getting killed by exploding truck tires. Thanks for the help guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry, my bad. I meant front axle caps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yup, don't know how I missed that one.
 

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Flugtechnik said:
How do you know which way is the front?
One end is "thicker" than the other - the Manual shows how to do it.

Sorry - I just looked at the manual, didn't see it anywhere.
The thicker end always goes towards the front, as I recall.
Steve would know for sure..........
 

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Hmm, maybe that's why my front wheel was bouncing more after I took it off to clean it up. I just thought it was out of true. I'll check my forks when I get home. My bike is disassembled at the moment, but this is good to know when I go to put it back together.
 

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Yes, The marked side (usually an arrow pointing forward or punchmark) is the "taller side".... this goes to the front and is tightened first.... The "pinch" (shorter) side should be at the rear, and usually will not appear to fully close...Torque these after the front stud nuts are fully tight..... A flatwasher and lock washer should be used on all four stud nuts although a flat washer and Nylock nut are acceptable for a SINGLE usage......This is an often overlooked causation of front end "shimmy" symptoms, and a safety issue......An improperly tightened (torqued) axle is another cause....Too loose or too tight can pinch or spread the fork sliders, causing binding on compression (excessive stiction), and/or refusal to "bounce" smoothly.......
Steve
 
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