Can't measure it myself right now, trying to remove it and could borrow a general flywheel puller from work. If I knew the diameter could pick the smallest one so it would better fit between crankcase and flywheel
You DO NOT pull it that way, you WILL damage the stator windings......
Thread a M20 x 1.5 pitch bolt (IIRC, if not someone should correct me) in where you removed the 8mm bolt.....I believe the oil drain plug will work......
Tighten it in.....strike end of bolt with hammer, tighten, strike.....repeat until it pops off.......
No Honda alternator rotor should ever be pulled using any general use tool, it can cause damage to the structure of the rotor. These aren't lawn mower engines, the are well-designed with close tolerances and in many cases, the rotor is comprised of aluminum and magnets pressed together which is easily damaged. The stator coils are usually close enough in proximity to the rotor that they could be damaged by the overhanging hook tips as well. Since you seem to know the size of the bolt necessary to use in the center of the rotor to pull it in the proper fashion, why use the wrong tool and risk damage?
I'm reassembling the starter Clutch , replacing the springs, caps, and rollers.
Should those parts be lubricated? I'd think so, since the must retract. But the manual says ensure they are "clean". Does that mean no particles, or no lube?
Likewise, for sliding the rotor on the crank...
Hi, new here - have had my CL for about 5 years, has been running well. This winter had it covered and it had been knocked over twice (city life)
Won’t start or kick over.
Now the engine seems seized- any ideas?
I have the head off my cb350k, looking at the cool slot from the front of the head to the back side of the exhaust port.
Would opening this up for more flow be a problem or not.
See pointer at the spot I was thinking of opening up,
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