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Discussion Starter #1
hi,
just thought I would pass on my settings for those fitting pods.
Firstly I couldn't get the carbs to work without stacks fitted before the filters - no problem cut some round 2" rain pipe at same length as the original rubber airbox ones (about 3") - warm the end with a hot air gun and pass the end over the carb bellmouth and let cool. Cut some slots and fasten to the carb with clips.

Fit the pods over these and clamp on with clips - note the cheap pods will need to be a bigger size as you must get the little rubber shelf that's inside over the stack otherwise it disrupts the airflow. Better quality pods don't have this rubber shelf.
The stacks smooth the flow and allow the cv carbs to work again as designed.

Now you need one washer under the needle to lift it - the needle is non adjustable so when you do this, screw the needle retainer all the way down until it just touches the needle but allows the needle to still move - you will see when you do it- if you screw it fully down the needle gets locked rigid which wont work.
Once your happy, that it moves but with no slack, spread varnish or glue at the top of the retainer to stop it coming loose.

Now leave float heights stock and slow running screws too - rejet to mains 95 and secondary 127.5. - yes that's a big jump but trust me it works - result is fantastic - absolutely no flat spots or hesitation, backfires or spitting and power is full on, yet you can still do top gear roll on.

Mine has a straight through pipe, so if stock you might have to drop to 90 and 125 if too rich. The midrange mains does need to be big though otherwise it will hesitate.

So pods and cvs do work - ignore the doubters, but you need the stacks! - good luck!

Administrater - move this to the frequently and hopefully people will stop asking!
 

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This has been my thinking for quite some time. The airbox boot is functioning as a velocity stack, even the end of it is bell mouthed.
So this has provided good clean drivability thru out the rpm range?
Plug readings? Effect on fuel mileage?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hi,
plugs are fine, bike pulls fantastic - believe me its take 3 months to get the jetting right, the midrange stumble took some solving, it really takes a large main to sort it.
without the stacks, the carbs just would not behave at all.
Regards gas mileage - I did this for power so its one AREA that's not a concern - anybody looking for mpg - stay stock.

But it really does work and works well and the stacks are cheaply made in 5 mins - I will post a photo to show the result.
j
 

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I wouldn't do it to the road bike since cleaning filters can be a PITA when you're 1000 miles away from home. :lol:
However the café is a different proposition, fast short runs. So who cares about mpg then :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
hers a photo of the simple stack - plastic pipe, end warmed up and forced over carb.
filter must sit over stack with no obstruction - so make sure rubber lip of filter is not disrupting the airflow.
j
 

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... and do you have a photo of the work you did to the needle retainer?
Which size are the washer you fit under the needle ( or does that matter?
:)
 

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Ok - roger that! and thx Jim!

Since I have build my own batterybox, I have a litte problem fitting the pipe - simply not enough space.
Will a 45 degree on that pipe disrupt the air-flow?



(or do I have to make a new box?:))

Could these maybe do a decent job?
http://www.z1parts.net/product/carb-vel ... -52mm-54mm
 

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Those could work, unfortunately there's no information posted like length.
Also the lip of them that mates to the carb throat has to be flush, no step up or down that'll disturb the air flow into the air bleed port.
You still need air filters that will go over them.
Nothing says they can't be turned outwards to clear the box. A little ingenuity and some hose? ;)
 

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Hi Jim :)

The guy just mailed me yesterday, and the velocity stacks are 75 mm long - he says that they dont require an additional airfilter, since they have a microfilter ( I dont know if thats enough)

So that could work out, but what about the thing you discussed about adding length to the air-intake, so the CV´s could work properly.
?

Another thing I was wondering about is if you build it the way that Lynjed does, where you take the 2" rain pipe and heat it up to fit the carburator, I guess you must have some kind of edge inside? the carb intake diameter is 54 mm. and the rainpipe is only 2", which is around 50 mm.
 

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The air box boots are @3" long so 75mm length is really close to that. Good
The air box boots are shaped like and function like a velocity stack, just an oblong version
Micro-filter? Yes that will work to some degree. If you're planning on regular or daily use it won't do the job w/o cleaning on a very regular basis. Even a full size filter needs to be replaced or cleaned every few thousand miles.
These are the ports that are of concern, they need good clean airflow to function correctly[attachment=1:3a13w9f3]201_4535.JPG[/attachment:3a13w9f3] and this is what they look like with the air box boot in place[attachment=0:3a13w9f3]201_4534.JPG[/attachment:3a13w9f3]
The design Lynjed came up with will work since there is a radiused curve leading from the throat of the extension tube to the carb
 

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Hi Lynjed

What filters are you using?
I can only find the ones with the rubber lip...

Have also a little difficulties pressing the 2" pipe over the 54 mm. carb... even with looooads of heat.

Any tricks you want to share with me? :)
 

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I'm using the K&N part number RC-2330 now, with good results. There's so many variables to this, I think. Engine condition, carbs, personal preference, etc. It took me around a year to get mine where it is now with a lot of experimenting. I see threads started about this all the time on several forums. Just referred someone to this over on do the ton, too.
 

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coldfuzion76 said:
I'm using the K&N part number RC-2330 now, with good results. There's so many variables to this, I think. Engine condition, carbs, personal preference, etc. It took me around a year to get mine where it is now with a lot of experimenting. I see threads started about this all the time on several forums. Just referred someone to this over on do the ton, too.
Are you using any sort of velocity stack/tube with them or just a direct fit? Where have you gone with the jetting at this stage? Loss or gain in power at what rpm's/load?
 

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No stack right now. The filter is completely open, and doesn't appear to be blocking the port for the piston. Before I changed to the K&N, I jetted them at 125 and 78. I think that's where I left them anyway. With the cheapo pods, it cut out on the top end. I'm gonna guess 8k, cause I took my tach off. Now it pulls as long as I can hold the throttle. I have noticed a slight off idle hesitation since I changed filters, but it's very subtle.
 

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I've posted the plug chart a few times but here it is again[attachment=0:39whxutn]spark-plug-condition-colour-640x266.jpg[/attachment:39whxutn]
 

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