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I am having the worst time trying to adjust my valves.

I bought a set of feeler gauges that are all flat.

I am pretty sure I rotated the engine to the right point where both of the valves are about half way up at LT and T and I waited a whole day before working on it.

I started it up which went fine. it even idles. There is very little tappet noise now, but I feel like it vibrates a lot more now.

Due to the tiny area around the valve that I have to work in, I feel like i can not get an accurate gauge on how much pressure I am feeling.

I am currently loosening the Adjustmen Screw and Bolt so that it is very easy to slide my Feeler Gauge in there. Then I tighten it down all the way (not with too much force) and start loosening up until I can pull it out without too much friction.

I really feel like they are just crammed in the whole though and not allowing me to be accurate.

Is there any special technique?
 

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the idea is "slip fit ". it should have a touch of drag on the way out, and the next larger size feeler should not go thru. too right will run badly, too loose is no big deal and will just sound a bit typewritery. if you're too young to have seen a typewriter , they go "tick" .

youre overthinking this a little . take all four caps off and pull the spark plugs so the engine spins easier . kick it through a few times and observe the rocker arms going up and down. you want to adjust each one when it's relaxed.. don't be too married to the marks on the rotor.. once you see it go round a few times you'll get it. put a right angle bend in your feelers to make life easier. they won't care.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the idea is "slip fit ". it should have a touch of drag on the way out, and the next larger size feeler should not go thru. too right will run badly, too loose is no big deal and will just sound a bit typewritery. if you're too young to have seen a typewriter , they go "tick" .

youre overthinking this a little . take all four caps off and pull the spark plugs so the engine spins easier . kick it through a few times and observe the rocker arms going up and down. you want to adjust each one when it's relaxed.. don't be too married to the marks on the rotor.. once you see it go round a few times you'll get it. put a right angle bend in your feelers to make life easier. they won't care.
Thank you Phil71 I greatly appreciate all the information and speedy reply!

This is my first post and I think I am going to like it here :)

I will give her another go tomorrow after she cools down again.

If I can't figure it out exactly I'll just try running them a little more loose

At least I know I can sleep tonight :D
 

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I use the go/nogo check with the next size up gauge as well. If a .003" won't go under a .002" gap but the .002" will then it is correct.

Welcome to the forums as well! Feel free to post up in the introductions section with some pictures of your rig. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
1907781_10152456756291578_3902231626268532200_o.jpg

This is my lovely!

The previous owners daughter called her "Ruby" so i guess I am sticking with it.
 

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How's this build going? Looks pretty if your leaving it stock. Nice buy
 

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How's this build going? Looks pretty if your leaving it stock. Nice buy
She is coming along nicely. I recently started wet sanding and polishing the aluminum engine case covers. They are pretty damn near chrome as of now.

I have put black cafe bars on and painted the shiny black satin black which makes the chrome and red pain pop even more. The only other things I am going to do is get rid of the huge stop light in back and replace it with a smaller led one, possibly an LED strip under the seat, and finish up that engine case. I am pretty sure everything else is staying stock, but we'll see.
 

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PS. Do you guys use special feeler gauges. I have only bought the ones from AutoZone that I put little bends in to.

I still haven't mastered this yet...
 

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When I buy a multiple-leaf set of feeler gages, I am reluctant to bend or deform any of the individual gages because then they won't all fit back together nicely for storage. The thinner gages are the easiest to damage. To get around this, I buy 12" long feeler gage strips in the thickness I want. I then feel free to snip off a piece of the strip, cut it to a narrower "nose" if necessary, bend it if necessary, etc. If it fractures or splits after a period of use, I just cut another bit off the long strip and start over. You can buy these 12" long strips of feeler gage in metric or inch thicknesses. If you want, you can buy them in a 10 foot long roll (way overkill for most of us). I order these from McMaster-Carr. They have very prompt delivery via UPS (sorry I don't think they deliver outside the United States). Here is their page for metric feeler gage stock McMaster-Carr

Ray
 
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Some body showed a really nice pre-bent gauge set that was from Motion Pro
 
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