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Discussion Starter #1
Not sure if this falls under this "Mechanical Issues" category, but oh well.

OK I need opinions on the next step forward on my rear CB360t fender. The way that it is set up, it has many holes drilled in it for the taillight wiring, frame rail support, and the taillight/license plate mounting bracket itself. I HATE the stock taillight and I bought a "cafe racer style" taillight with combined plate bracket on eBay. I planned to chop the fender to maybe 2/3 of its original length and powdercoat. As all things, I discover it is easier said than done! First off, without the frame-to-fender rail support, I imagine the fender will bob up and down anytime the bike would hit something larger than a peanut on the road. Secondly, I do not know if I can plug up any of these drilled holes before powdercoating. Lastly I noticed that the curvature profile on the new light is way off compared to the curvature of my fender.

First thought was to fab up a rubber "base" to fix the gap between the fender and my taillight and chop off that third of the fender like I always wanted. That is all well and good except it runs into the problem of how to support the fender from bobbing on bumps as mentioned before.

Second thought was to keep that support rail and mount the new taillight lower on the fender, but it leaves me with unsightly holes that I don't know how to cover up.

I really don't want to have to use the stock taillight assembly, but I guess I can go back to it if I NEED to. Pics to follow shortly...
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here is the "naked" fender with all the bumps and holes:


With the "fender-rail support". This keeps the fender in place and takes up 3 of the aformentioned holes:


Showing the new taillight and the gap between surfaces

 

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Sensei
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Since you plan on painting the fender, allow me to offer a suggestion..... Make a "fitting" that adapts curve of the fender to the lamp bracket by placing a "dollop" of bondo on the roughened area of the fender....While "wet" cover the dollop with cellophane, and press the lamp bracket firmly into (onto) it in the correct position... (the cellophane will keep the bondo from messing up or adhereing to the bracket)... Once hardened, gently lift out the bracket, and file/sand the excess bondo into "smooth flow" back into the fender....
If you insist on powdercoat, this can be done with braze, but takes infinate patience, MANY trial fits, re-brazes, etc.....
Here is a view of one I did in metal ( fabricated the "box" and welded it on...)

I'll insert pic as soon as it uploads.... Steve
 

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I've seen one somewhere that used wood and an old mudflap for a gasket/spacer. Could'nt tell you where or how, but maybe it'll give you an idea??? :roll:

I like the before mentioned idea though.. I wonder if it'd stick good enough?

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Here are better pics of my "endgame":
Here is what exists stock:



Option 1:
Pros: Chop the fender, use material "base" to secure taillight to curvature of fender, get the look I always wanted
Cons: without the rail to support the fender, the fender will flop around



Option 2:
Pros: Fender is secured from bouncing around since the rail support is still there, minimal work needed, still able to trim fender a bit
Cons: Leaves MANY unsightly holes in the fender!

 

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Sensei
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Refer to these pics re previous response.... The rear fender is a cheapie "flat" fender with sheetmetal sides welded on.... It is amazing the holes you can hide by welding them full then grinding it smooth........ Just takes time....


Heres the "box" for the light


On my mini, which used the exact taillight assembly you have, i carefully recurved the bottom edge of the aluminum bracket to fit the curve of the fender with a 1/2 round mill file, then smoothed and repolished.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #7
:shock: I am in awe!

I think that is a little out of my ability. Someone on another forum suggested filling the holes with JB weld and sanding down to a smooth finish. I think that sandblasting would kill this, so I am thinking maybe epoxy appliance paint for the fenders instead?
 

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Sensei
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Sandblast FIRST!.... Then fill and smooth (JB weld, or "real" weld) ... then either recontour the underside of the bracket, or use the "Bondo" trick..... You WILL then have to paint, the JB and Bondo won't survive powdercoating's baking process.....
BUT, Don't sell yourself short!.... EVERYONE learns by doing!...... Someone you know HAS a small MIG welder in their garage..... Ask if you can try (on scrap metal, and have them show you how) or have them "spot" fill the extra holes..(watch and learn)...Worst that can happen is they say "No"..... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah my thoughts exactly. Steve, I don't know where this project would be without your advice! Does anyone have experience with using epoxy appliance paint? I think I might try that on the fenders, but since they are fenders and exposed to the elements/road debris, this might get chipped off real fast :?
 

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Sensei
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Look in the projects topic.... A member here did his wheels with appliance black and they look GREAT!..... If it holds up on wheels, you should be fine!.....
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok plan for now is to get some bondo and practice before doing anything. I will get the fenders sandblasted before I work on them to get the rust and chrome off.
 

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Dont know if this will help but you can use muriatic acid to strip off the old chrome and rust, it might save you from having to take it to get sandblasted. The acid will only strip off chrome, so youll be left with the old nickel plate underneath which will help discourage further rusting. Oh yeah you can paint on top of nickel too. You can purchase muriatic at any home improvement center. JMTC! :)
 

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No matter what option you go with it'll still be custom, and YOU DID IT. That just plain feels good..

If you were'nt set on the tail light being chrome, then you could shape it to fit the fender?

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Sensei
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GB It's NOT chrome...It's polished aluminum.....He CAN reshape it..... I filed the underneath of mine to match the fender curvature, then simply repolished.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #15
66Sprint said:
GB It's NOT chrome...It's polished aluminum.....He CAN reshape it..... I filed the underneath of mine to match the fender curvature, then simply repolished.... Steve
Word


Turns out the powdercoat guy says he can do some bodywork on the holes with something called quick steel to help me out for cheap. I will drop by this weekend hopefully to show him the parts to see if it is manageable!
 

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I knew that they made those lights in chrome and polished aluminum, so I did'nt know which he had. That'd be an easier way to go about getting it flush in my opinion... Aluminum is way easier to work with compared to that fender/bondo fabbing.. My two cents....

The "quick steel" is more than likely just a knock-off of JB weld or the like.. They're all sandable with the right tools.

Keep us updated on what you decide to do Kruk!!

GB :mrgreen:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
So I mounted the fender on the bike, and I've gotta say I "change my mind like a girl changes clothes" (god I can't get that song outta my head!) I am digging the short fender and when it is on the bike, the fitment is hella better! From what I can see, the fender won't have too much to support and I can fab a lil bracket to support it w/o that rail. This should also cut down on powdercoating costs dramatically. I will try to get a "before" pic after I drill my holes and chop it before I powdercoat.


So in my minds eye, everything below the taillight bracket will be scrapped.
 

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Well, on my minds eye, seems like you've got a plan and a cool one at that! :cool: Be good to see it done. ;)

Always Did like those Lucas Style tail lights. :cool:
Take care, Bill ;)
 

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Sensei
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You know the little three-bolt, rubber cushion bracket that goes over the loop?.... Is it possible you could "slot" the sides of the light bracket to similarly bridge over the (possibly shortened) tube loop?..... Just a thought........ Steve
 

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Discussion Starter #20
66Sprint said:
You know the little three-bolt, rubber cushion bracket that goes over the loop?.... Is it possible you could "slot" the sides of the light bracket to similarly bridge over the (possibly shortened) tube loop?..... Just a thought........ Steve
Lemme see if I get this Steve, because it sounds like you are onto something. :idea: Basically the new taillight+bracket becomes that stock three holed bracket with rubber sleeve. I would just need to use a round file to get a profile in the taillight bracket so that fits that old fender support rail (shortened to compensate), so that the fender+taillight rests on that rail. I like the idea, but let me know if I am wrong.

Mark
 
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