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Discussion Starter #1
i adjusted the valves today on my 1974 cb360 just because it was next on my list of things to do to this bike
sounded pretty straight forward but there were some difficulties that make me second guess my work like getting a feeler gauge in there is tricky and I am not sure if I was doing it right.
also there is a little clicking on the right side exhaust valve, loose right?

1. LT is left TDC right? 180 degrees from LT to T is right TDC right?
2. Why does the rotor LT mark race past the index mark and T backs up from the index mark?
3. How can you tell if the valves are fully closed?
4. When the rocker arm is at its highest point is the valve closed or open?
6. What are some tips or tricks?

Does anyone have a link to a good instructional video because i can't find a good one on youtube or google.


One other thing, what could cause one cylinder to work much hotter than the other or one cylinder not as hot.
The hotter cylinder has a hotter header and faster more exhaust pressure than the other.

this bike is stock with no mechanical or electrical modifications
 

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Sensei
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27,163 Posts
Answers....
1. Yes, and Yes,... but the valves MUST be checked on the compression stroke for that cylinder (TDC occurs twice in each cylinder during the 4-stroke cycle, once on/during compression stroke, once on exhaust stroke)
2. the "racing past" or "backing-up" is caused by valve spring pressure...(one of the valves is under pressure from one of the cam lobes)...You MUST be SURE it is from the other cylinders valves, not the ones you are adjusting.... (A rocker on a valve with "pressure" will have NO freeplay or clearance room for the feeler)
3. Assuming the valve isn't bent or stuck, it will be fully closed when there is freeplay on its rocker (see answer 2)
4. the cam side of the rocker will be lowest (closer to the centerline of the camshaft), the valve end will be at its highest point (away from valve stem end)
5. read above until you "get" it....
6. Don't start engine until you are sure it is correctly set, .....

The "hot" header is on a firing cylinder, the "cold" one isn't firing properly...could be timing, fuel supply, carb syncing, etc, etc....
 

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Premium Member
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1,612 Posts
Hey 547...

...did you have to put a bend in your feeler guage to reach down into the head cover? I find it quite a stretch to check the valve clearances without mashing the feelers down in there.....
 
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Discussion Starter #5
leethal said:
Hey 547...

...did you have to put a bend in your feeler guage to reach down into the head cover? I find it quite a stretch to check the valve clearances without mashing the feelers down in there.....
yes I did have to bend the feeler gauge, that was another thing that made me second guess.
 

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Registered
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58 Posts
I recommend using (finding) an OEM style feeler gauge. They are in the correct angle and and the gauge itself is very short. Much easier to use than a traditional feeler gauge.[attachment=0:11qbsiso]35-2625.jpg[/attachment:11qbsiso]
 

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Premium Member
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1,612 Posts
Cheers bro! That will do nicely in my ever expanding tool selection :cool:
 
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