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CB360 running/charging issues

15009 Views 45 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  mktsc
So I picked up this CB360 a couple of weeks back. Previous owner put in a new battery. When I got the bike, it ran pretty good. Over the past week I've been ironing out some running issues, mainly found intake and exhaust leaks. I also adjusted the clutch. So I take it out for a spin, get a few blocks away and come to a stop, and the bike dies. Kick start it, and it doesnt want to stay running. Limp the bike home, and smell clutch. So I chalk it up to a poor adjustment. Readjust, and re-ride. Runs great, idles, get down the block again, and same story. Limp it back home and start thinking. So I've noticed that over the past week of riding, the electric start works less and less, and now it doesnt seem to have enough juice to start the bike. So after doing some research, I figure it's the rectifier. It's original, and I test it via the Clymer manual, and get no continuity. Problem solved, right? Wrong. I get the Radio Shack replacement, and wire it up and check continuity via the Clymer manual procedure again. (negative probe on green wire, positive on red/white, yellow, and pink) Neither of the replacements show continuity. But if I reverse the positive and negative probes and voila, continuity. I recheck the old one, and it shows continuity in this manner too.

Now I'm at a loss. I plug back in the new rectifier, and fire the bike up. Seems to run pretty good, but then again it ran good in the first place anyways, until i get down the street.

Has anyone had similar problems, or have any idea what's going on with the rectifier or what to check next? The bike's run pretty good since I got it, just seems to run worse over the course of the past week. I have no idea why the electric start worked a week ago, and has worked less and less ever since until now when the bike doesnt run good either. One last thing, I noticed that now the headlight gets brighter when I rev the throttle.


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Just shot-gunning here, but coils and condensors will often times wait till they get hot to start acting up.

But I think whatever is draining your battery is the root problem here.
These bikes just won't run right with a compromised battery, and these batteries are hurt bad after being drained dead more than 4-5 times.
mktsc said:
How do I check the alternator from the leads? I couldn't find instructions in my Clymer manual or factory shop manual. They both say to take the cover off and check at the stator.

Page 98 of the Honda manual shows a photo.
There's a small nylon 4-wire plug thing that exits the engine near the counter sprocket, Attaches to a similar plug on the frame downtube behind the carbs.
Pink, yellow, white wires. The green/red is the neutral switch, the others are from the stator coils.

This is where Steve says to disconnect and take continuity and voltage readings.

What do you mean by "set the points"??
You should read the Twin Timing thread over in Tech Tips - it applies to your 360, as well.
mktsc said:
tbpmusic said:
What do you mean by "set the points"??
You should read the Twin Timing thread over in Tech Tips - it applies to your 360, as well.
I adjusted the gap to spec per the manual. (0.015")
Please, read the thread - setting the right side point to any particular value does NOT set the timing......I can almost guarantee the timing is not correct.
mktsc said:
Great thread, thanks. Once I figure out how to get the stripped side cover bolts out, I'll definetly have to follow that method.

Understand, I never tried to actually set the timing, all I did was adjust the points gap per the troubleshooting section of the manual.

Then your timing is probably nowhere near being right.......if it's even close it's just an accident.
mktsc said:
What would cause the timing to be out over this time?

How about "checking" the points, setting the gap without following up with timing??
You change the point gap, you change the timing........
I had no idea that changing the points gap would effect timing.

Oh yeah - that's what we're trying to relate to you here. Hopefully you understand the connection now, from the other thread??

So in the maintenance intervals, where it says to check your points every 1000 miles and adjust if neccesary, it doesnt say anything about checking and readjusting the timing too. Are you saying you have to readjust the timing at 1000 mile intervals as well?

Oh yeah - you may need to do it even more frequently. The manuals leave a lot out.
The points wear, being mechanical devices, and the gap gets smaller - that changes the timing.

Not trying to be a pain in the ass, just trying to learn.


You're not -

Now you seem to have another whole 'nuther problem going on with battery/charging stuff, that's a different thing.

But every time you chnage the point gap, you change the timing, yeah??
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mktsc said:
I'm thinking those things coupled with a charged battery should yield promising results. Do you think there's any reason to suspect the coils or condensors?

It won't hurt to have the timing dead on, for sure.
As for the battery, we'll see.
The condensors and coils are over 30 years old, yeah.........??
One thing at a time........
66Sprint said:
Just for fun, that "green" wire you mention wasn't actually a green with red stripe wire in that same connector was it?...


You're right of course, light green/red is the neutral circuit - I incorrectly referenced it as green/yellow, which is the brake lamp circuit.
I edited my original post to rectify my error......
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