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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I picked up this CB360 a couple of weeks back. Previous owner put in a new battery. When I got the bike, it ran pretty good. Over the past week I've been ironing out some running issues, mainly found intake and exhaust leaks. I also adjusted the clutch. So I take it out for a spin, get a few blocks away and come to a stop, and the bike dies. Kick start it, and it doesnt want to stay running. Limp the bike home, and smell clutch. So I chalk it up to a poor adjustment. Readjust, and re-ride. Runs great, idles, get down the block again, and same story. Limp it back home and start thinking. So I've noticed that over the past week of riding, the electric start works less and less, and now it doesnt seem to have enough juice to start the bike. So after doing some research, I figure it's the rectifier. It's original, and I test it via the Clymer manual, and get no continuity. Problem solved, right? Wrong. I get the Radio Shack replacement, and wire it up and check continuity via the Clymer manual procedure again. (negative probe on green wire, positive on red/white, yellow, and pink) Neither of the replacements show continuity. But if I reverse the positive and negative probes and voila, continuity. I recheck the old one, and it shows continuity in this manner too.

Now I'm at a loss. I plug back in the new rectifier, and fire the bike up. Seems to run pretty good, but then again it ran good in the first place anyways, until i get down the street.

Has anyone had similar problems, or have any idea what's going on with the rectifier or what to check next? The bike's run pretty good since I got it, just seems to run worse over the course of the past week. I have no idea why the electric start worked a week ago, and has worked less and less ever since until now when the bike doesnt run good either. One last thing, I noticed that now the headlight gets brighter when I rev the throttle.

Help?

-MK
 

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Your rectifier is good...Continuity SHOULD only show in one direction, none with polarity reversed...... It is likely the regulator IF you still have a problem, although an improperly charged "new" battery could be the cause.....

Here's how to check the system...... UNplug the alternator and start the bike....Read AC voltage between pink and yellow wires... It should be around 30VAC at idle and increase as you rev the bike......( 30 is relative, as long as you get a reading and it goes up with revs).......
Now, plug the alt back into the harness, start the bike and read DC voltage at the battery terminals... Should be 11VDC or so.....Again, should go up to about 13.7 or 14VDC when fully revved...... NO HIGHER!....
If the above is happening, the charging system is good..... If not post results....

The battery SHOULD have been slow-charged after introduction of the acid... If it wasn't, do it now... NO more than 1 amp to the battery's capacity...... A 12AA (12N12A 4A1) is a 12 ampere/hour battery, so should be "trickled" for 12 HOURS at 1 amp to fully charge. ......DO NOT CHARGE at A RATE HIGHER THAN 10% of CAPACITY ! ... 1.2 amps would be actual maximum.....
Let us know the results regardless.... Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bike seems to start and run ok, but it did before too. Haven't had the nuts to ride it down the street only to get stranded again.

Measured voltage at batter, 11.64VDC off, and 11.32VDC while running.

-MK
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I started the bike up, idled ok ran ok, decided to take it down the street. Long story short, same thing happened. I went halfway down the street, I pull in the clutch lever and let the engine revs settle out. Bike idles as I'm going down the street. Everything seems ok. So I went further. Tried it again, and it died. Pull off, get it started back up, limp it home, get it in the driveway, pull in clutch bike dies.

It seems like if I let the bike cool down, it pretends to run ok...

-MK
 

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Just shot-gunning here, but coils and condensors will often times wait till they get hot to start acting up.

But I think whatever is draining your battery is the root problem here.
These bikes just won't run right with a compromised battery, and these batteries are hurt bad after being drained dead more than 4-5 times.
 

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mktsc said:
Bike seems to start and run ok, but it did before too. Haven't had the nuts to ride it down the street only to get stranded again.

Measured voltage at batter, 11.64VDC off, and 11.32VDC while running.

-MK
If you're only getting 11.3 vdc while running with the engine revving at 3/4K then you've got a charging problem. I think you said you checked the alternator, and we determined the rectifier was working then I'd say you've got a regulator problem. It's shut down and not allowing any of that good DC voltage from the rectifier into the battery. If I recall my basic electronics theory, the regulator is just an on/off switch that that allows the rectifier to do it's thing. Sort of like the wall switch that allows the AC current to run through the bulb and light the room. Keep in mind though, I might be wrong about that and there is a reason I let all that Navy Electronics Training to go to waste and now run restaurants. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry, 11.3V was running at idle. Didn't try revving it. Tomorrow I'll check points, coils and condensors. I didn't check the alternator, but the three screws are stripped...
 

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It won't TELL us anything if you don't get a "revved" reading to compare with idle reading.... What's the AC readings (idle and revved)?
You Have to do the whole test!.... Not just a part of it!....We have no more real information now than before....

What do the three screws have to do with checking the wiring coming out of the alternator cases?..... UNPLUG it from harness and read with meter.....!!!!!!!
I'd really like to help, but this is just frustrating if you don't do your part....
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Charged the battery up this morning, but the bike wouldn't start. I checked the points and they were out of adjustment. I adjusted them, and got the bike to start and idle, but when I rode it, the same thing happened. I checked the VDC output at the battery at 3K, and it's still around 11 volts, and doesn't change as I rev the engine. This leads me to believe it's a faulty voltage regulator.

How do I check the alternator from the leads? I couldn't find instructions in my Clymer manual or factory shop manual. They both say to take the cover off and check at the stator.

Thanks.

-MK
 

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mktsc said:
How do I check the alternator from the leads? I couldn't find instructions in my Clymer manual or factory shop manual. They both say to take the cover off and check at the stator.

-MK
Page 98 of the Honda manual shows a photo.
There's a small nylon 4-wire plug thing that exits the engine near the counter sprocket, Attaches to a similar plug on the frame downtube behind the carbs.
Pink, yellow, white wires. The green/red is the neutral switch, the others are from the stator coils.

This is where Steve says to disconnect and take continuity and voltage readings.

What do you mean by "set the points"??
You should read the Twin Timing thread over in Tech Tips - it applies to your 360, as well.

http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=883
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK. I got continuity between yellow/white, and yellow/pink. No other combinations.

Voltage is as follows while bike is idling:

green/white - 8.5VDC - 7VAC
green/yellow - 2VDC - 3.2VAC
green/pink - 2VDC - 19VAC

Bike doesnt want to idle, have to hold the throttle open a bit. I think the battery is dead again, it won't turn the starter.

-MK
 

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mktsc said:
tbpmusic said:
What do you mean by "set the points"??
You should read the Twin Timing thread over in Tech Tips - it applies to your 360, as well.

http://www.hondatwins.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=883
I adjusted the gap to spec per the manual. (0.015")
Please, read the thread - setting the right side point to any particular value does NOT set the timing......I can almost guarantee the timing is not correct.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Great thread, thanks. Once I figure out how to get the stripped side cover bolts out, I'll definetly have to follow that method.

Understand, I never tried to actually set the timing, all I did was adjust the points gap per the troubleshooting section of the manual.

-Matt
 

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mktsc said:
Great thread, thanks. Once I figure out how to get the stripped side cover bolts out, I'll definetly have to follow that method.

Understand, I never tried to actually set the timing, all I did was adjust the points gap per the troubleshooting section of the manual.

-Matt
Then your timing is probably nowhere near being right.......if it's even close it's just an accident.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
When I got the bike almost 2 weeks ago, it ran great. Idled, ran and rode just fine. It never died out, and the battery seemed to hold a charge. Ever since, it's progressively ran worse and worse, until it's current state.

What would cause the timing to be out over this time?

-MK
 

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mktsc said:
What would cause the timing to be out over this time?

-MK
How about "checking" the points, setting the gap without following up with timing??
You change the point gap, you change the timing........
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The bike ran progressively worse and worse until it got like it is now before I even touched the points, so whatever cause the bike to not run right, has nothing to do with the points or timing. I had no idea that changing the points gap would effect timing. This is my first foray into a vehicle with a points type ignition.

So in the maintenance intervals, where it says to check your points every 1000 miles and adjust if neccesary, it doesnt say anything about checking and readjusting the timing too. Are you saying you have to readjust the timing at 1000 mile intervals as well?

Not trying to be a pain in the ass, just trying to learn.

-MK
 

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I had no idea that changing the points gap would effect timing.

Oh yeah - that's what we're trying to relate to you here. Hopefully you understand the connection now, from the other thread??

So in the maintenance intervals, where it says to check your points every 1000 miles and adjust if neccesary, it doesnt say anything about checking and readjusting the timing too. Are you saying you have to readjust the timing at 1000 mile intervals as well?

Oh yeah - you may need to do it even more frequently. The manuals leave a lot out.
The points wear, being mechanical devices, and the gap gets smaller - that changes the timing.

Not trying to be a pain in the ass, just trying to learn.

-MK


You're not -

Now you seem to have another whole 'nuther problem going on with battery/charging stuff, that's a different thing.

But every time you chnage the point gap, you change the timing, yeah??
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Gotcha. Thanks for taking the time to explain it. I just picked up a stator from eBay. While it's in transit, I'm going to work on getting the bolts of the side covers and working through that timing tutorial.

I'm thinking those things coupled with a charged battery should yield promising results. Do you think there's any reason to suspect the coils or condensors?

-MK
 
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