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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello! I'm new to the Twin forums, but I'm very happy to be a part of the community. let me start by saying that i purchased a CB360 two weeks ago by a guy in louisville kentucky. I reside in Lexington kentucky now, and am a university of kentucky student. When purchasing the bike, it had no leaks, issues, or anything, with the exception of a weak charging system. the bike has been converted to a cafe racer, and in the process went for a 3.3 A/H battery. it has a H4 bulb and after 15 ,inutes of test riding the bikes light began fading and the bike was hesitating. (battery was dying) turned lights off and worked fine. previous owner said i wasnt keeping it up in the revvs, my bet is the bikes got a bad stator, or just not a good enough one. (ive heard this is a common issue on these bikes) anyhow. after driving it home from frankfort kentucky, i noticed the bike was leaking oil, and landing on the shorty exhaust. (smoking/smelled like burning oil) sure enough, i pulled off and noticed that oil was seeping through the stator housing, onto the headers. not only that, i noticed some other oil leaks that were not there during the time of the test drive. the crank case gasket on right foot side is leaking at the bottom by the brake lever, and it also appears that the bike is leaking oil somewhere near the shifter lever on left foot side. lastly, i noticed a bolt had come lose on the valve cover, and oil was leaking there as well. it also looks like oil may be leaking from spark plug area?? seems odd, but this could be from that valve cover head on the left side leaking its way down.

will post pictures as well.

another odd tid bit; these leaks seem to only really happen after riding when oil gets to full temp. simply crusing in the neighborhood for 5 minutes didnt show any leaks. maybe the voscosity change is allowing the oil to flow better, and becoming thinner letting it seep through the gaskets?

any words would be useful. ive worked on dirt bikes before, and owned a klr 650 before this bike. i have baseline skills.


PS, engine mods are as follows:

VM30's with pod filters
oversized rings, (per previous owners sayings)
hotter cam
properly jetted, no backfires, yada yada yada
shortys
new clutch plates

thats all in terms of motor. g14IqiEs.jpg 0ajnXnrs.jpg TKOU8lls.jpg
 

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Tackle leaks one at a time. First, clean the engine well, get the existing oil off. The first place I would check is the tappet covers on the head. Over tightened, they will crack, and the oil leaking will leak down, covering the engine in oil. At slow speeds, the tappet covers will be fine, at higher speeds, the oil splashed around a bit and will leak if the cover is cracked or missing an o-ring.

Also, remove the points cover on the engine. There should be no oil inside the cover....There are 3 places to leak inside there, the 2 rubber plugs that cover the rocker shafts, and the cam seal. If oily in there, that would be another possible leak point. High leak points drip down, so after a ride, there is usually oil everywhere.

The other common leak point is the head. On my bike, after heating and cooling the bolt right below the sparkplug gets a little loose. Do not overtighten, these are small, low torque bolts, but I would check them.

Take a picture of each of the tappet covers. We can look at them and see if they look intact.



A properly running bike will not charge the battery until about 3500 RPM, below that, it is running of the battery. With the normal 12AH battery, this is some reasonable time before the battery is discharged. With a 3.5AH battery, you have a very short time to run in the discharge zone, so the battery will get discharged in a short time (10, 15 minutes? ) and the bike run poorly, if at all , with a dead battery. These bikes need a good 12V to make a reliable spark. Small batteries allow the builder to hide the battery, but compromise the bikes reliability quite a bit. Also, since you do not have a Tachometer, it is going to be difficult to know how fast the motor is turning. People are generally a little uncomfortable running these engines at the RPM they are designed for as they are used to car engines and/or Harley v-twins that run pretty slowly.
If this is your first bike, you will not have a feel for what is appropriate RPM with a gauge.

I bet the Builder has a 55w/60W halogen bulb in the headlight. The alternator has difficulty keeping up with that amount of current draw. Either an H4 35W/35W bulb, or an LED H4 bulb would help in this area. I am running an H4 18W LED headlight bulb and the light is as good as the halogen, and my battery stays charged. If the builder kept the stock regulator, Sonreir at Sparck Moto has a replacement combo regulator/rectifier that will allow the bike to get the most it can out of out marginal systems. Since your bike is not stock, it may be hard to help you wire something like that in as the colors of the wires and locations will be different. Hopefully the builder gave you a schematic of how he wired the bike. Somehow, I suspect he did not.

While the bike looks sharp, I am not happy to say the builder made some errors, in my opinion. The builder chose looks over better performance, or even just normal performance. The tires are too big for the rims. While larger tires slow handling, larger tires on too narrow a rim cause less stable handling. Not a problem until someone cuts you off and you need to make an emergency maneuver. In addition, he eliminated the from fork brace. The front forks are small on a stock bike, and flex a bit. The loss of any brace allows more flexing, creating the possibility of wobbles at highway speeds. They probably left it off for looks, and because the front tire rubbed on it.

Short exhaust reduce the power of the engine. There is not a whole lot of power out of this engine to throw away on poor exhaust. I would consider getting a longer exhaust, something that at least goes to the rear axle.

I stick with the stock carburetors, so I can't comment on the Mikuni's, as I have never used them. However, those pods on there are very restrictive. Since you have Mikuni's, the normal issue of pods not working well with CV carbs does not apply, but those pods have very little surface area. In addition, without a rear fender, any dirt kicked up by the rear tire is directed straight to those pods. They will clog quickly, and they aren't great filters. So you will get a lot of abrasives through the engine. You may want to consider a larger, better quality POD.

I know you are excited about your new to you bike, and this seems like a lot of criticism, but you should be aware of some of the deficiencies in that build and not be surprised as other issues pop up.

I am not trying to be mean here. I will help you as much as I can, as I am a CB360 fan, but there are limitations when you have a custom bike, and no good documentation of the build.

Clean the oil off, take pics of the tappet covers, remove the points cover and take some pics, and get back to us. We will help as much as we can.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Richard;

Thank you for the input! i take no offense to the comments, as i was in the loop about a lot of the information.

The gentleman i purchased the bike from knew quite a bit about this bike; which by the way you are right about in terms of a lot of things. The bike has a 55W H4 bulb, and having the bike on the test drive i took the bike around town and the battery started dying. he said i wasnt keeping the rpm's up enough, just like you said.

This is my third bike; but that said, ive had nothing this tedious. i had a klr 650 and a sv. two very simple, easy going bikes with very minimal problems. I had always wanted a cafe, and didnt mind potentially having to work on the bike, as i thought carb motors are pretty simple to work on, and such. (They are, the older ones are just more tedious) when i test drove the bike, there was zero oil, nothing. strange coincidence how 20 miles away, driving conservatively, the bike shows oil seeping through around 5 holes. MY LUCK!

Anyhow, i was able to get my toolset from out of town, and start busting open some seals/cases. First things first, the points cover. opened it to reveal oil seeping around the gasket, no appearing to come from cam seal. oil may have been coming from that bolt on the top of the valve cover thats stripped. i dried the bike, and took it for a light 5 mile ride, and sure enough oil was seeping out of that bolt, and leaking downm by sparkplug, the points wires, etc. there was also oil in bottom left area of what the points cover covers. not sure what it was. could have just seeped down with the valve cover head bolt.

next, took off the chain guard cover/clutch controller assy to reveal a leaking shifter lever o ring gasket. i dont know what you guys call those or the technical name, but the rubber gasket that seals the shifter from the crankcase had oil/grime all over it. both very fresh, and very old. next, it looks like the clutch shaft/rod that is in there had a o ring/gasket that was leaking. those discoveries cover the left side of the bike. Right side? leaky crank case gasket. leak identified on bottom right corner. bolts fel hand tighened very hard, probably too much.

as that is an issue, I've also recently been having electric problems. i believe there is a short in the system. sometimes, after driving the bike under throttle, ill let off the throttle and then ALL power to the bike cuts... ignition, headlight, you name it. the way to fix it is tur the key off and then back on. makes no sense. i don't know why it happens, but anyhow. also, when the bike warms up, the bike kind of sputters when you give it VERY little gas, such as when youre just maintainin a speed. it sort of bogs. bike does NOT do this at WOT or under medium/no load. any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
bump. if you read this post anytime before an hour ago today, the last paragraph made no sense. i was half asleep composing it.
 

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Get a seal kit and replace one at a time, checking for leaks as you go. Cam seal behind the points, shift lever, etc. Replace the headlamp - too much wattage. Also, just cuz, check your oil level - could be too high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the picture doesnt show it too well, but theres lots of oil om the shifter rod and clutch rod seals.
 
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